SIMPLE 
NON-TECHNICAL 

EASY  TO 
UNDERSTAND 


FRUITS  OF  THE  GARDEN.    $350.00  FROM  ONE  ACRE. 


HOME  GARDENING 

VEGETABLES  AND  FLOWERS 


Originally  published  under  the  title  of 

THE     CARD  ENETTE 

OR   CITY  BACK  YARD  GARDENING 
The  Sandwich  System 


[BY 

BENJAMIN  F.  ALBAUGH 


PART  1.    VEGETABLE  GARDENING 
PART  2.     FLOWER    GARDENING 


GROSSET  &  DUNLAP 

PUBLISHERS  NEW    YORK 


Published  by  Arrangement  with  the  Stewart  &  Kidd  Company 


COPYEIGHT,   1915,  BY 

STEWART  &  KIDD  COMPANY 

All  rights  reserved 
COPYBIGHT  IN  ENGLAND 


First  Impression,  May,  1915 
Second  Impression,  March,  1917 
Third  Impression,  May,  1917 


DEDICATION 

Iber,  who,  walking  by  my 
side,  has  shared  my  joys 
and  griefs,  and  whose  helpful 
labors  and  sympathy  have  been 
a  constant  inspiration,  this 
volume  is  affectionately  dedi- 
cated. 

THE  AUTHOR 


PREFACE   TO   FOURTH   EDITION 

The  Nation-wide  movement  toward  the  increase 
of  the  Food  Supply  by  the  utilization  of  neglected 
back-yards  and  other  waste  places,  has  resulted 
in  a  stupendous  increase  in  food  products.  And 
this  has  been  accomplished  at  low  cost,  for  the 
charges  for  transportation  and  the  profits  of  the 
middlemen  are  eliminated. 

While  there  have  been  some  failures,  the  vast 
majority  have  achieved  a  gratifying  success.  This 
will  stimulate  and  encourage  increased  effort  in 
the  years  to  come.  The  experiences  have  been 
educational  and  helpful,  and  will  add  greatly  to 
efficiency  in  future  efforts  in  this  line. 

The  Author  hopes  that  he  has,  in  an  humble 
way,  been  of  assistance  in  this  great,  laudable 
and  patriotic  movement,  and  the  large  number  of 
unsolicited  words  of  appreciation  as  well  as  the 
reports  of  gratifying  success  by  some  of  the  new 
methods,  described  in  this  volume,  seem  to  justify 
this  view.  At  any  rate  it  is  a  great  satisfaction 
to  him  to  believe  that  he  may  have  been  able  to 
do  his  bit  in  thus  trying  to  solve  the  difficult 
problem  of  The  High  Cost  of  Living. 

„  ^  THE  AUTHOR. 

COVINGTON,  OHIO, 

SEPTEMBER,  1917. 


PREFACE  TO  THIRD  EDITION 

The  favor  with  which  The  Gardenette  has  been 
received  has  exhausted  the  first  and  second  edi- 
tions. 

It  has  been  thought  best  to  enlarge  and  improve 
this  edition  in  accordance  with  the  wishes  and 
advice  of  many  readers. 

Therefore,  much  of  that  part  of  the  book  which 
relates  to  vegetable  growing  has  been  rewritten, 
some  new  and  very  successful  methods  have  been 
added,  together  with  some  useful  tables  of  ref- 
erence. This  part  of  the  volume  is  styled  "The 
Vegetable  Garden. " 

As  there  is  an  urgent  and  increasing  demand 
that  the  culture  of  flowering  plants  should  receive 
more  attention,  we  have  prepared  a  complete  de- 
partment which  is  called  "The  Flower  Garden/' 

New  illustrations  have  been  added,  and  the 
presswork  and  binding  have  been  greatly  im- 
proved. 

The  author  desires  to  express  his  gratitude  for 
the  many  kind  and  appreciative  words  from 
readers. 

To  the  author,  the  work  has  been  a  labor  of 
love,  and  he  will  feel  well  repaid  for  his  efforts, 
if  this  humble  volume  is  found  helpful  in  the  laud- 
able work  of  "making  desert  places  to  blossom 
like  the  rose,"  for  few  things  in  life  are  more 

7 


8         PEEFACE  TO  THIED  EDITION 

conducive  to  health  and  real  happiness  than  a 
successful  garden,  which  is  the  direct  result  of 
our  own  labor  and  planning. 

THE  AUTHOR. 
COVINGTON,  OHIO, 
JANUARY,  1915. 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

FACING  PAGE 

Frontispiece 

Celery  and  Blanching  Tubes,  Sandwich  Beds 16 

Truck  Patch,  Willow  Brook  Farm 17 

Plant  Incubator,  Out-of-doors — Cover  Removed 24 

Rockyford"  Cantaloupes  at  Willow  Brook  Farm 25 

Details  of  Plant  Forcer  or  Booster 32 

Plant   Booster 33 

A  Single  Hill  of  Squashes — Post  Hole  Method 40 

Swiss  Chard  Lucullus 41 

Lima  Beans 48 

Gradus  Peas  and  Early  Cabbage 49 

Onions  from  Seed — Pickler  Onions .  64 

Early  Ohio  Potatoes 65 

Field's  Early  June  Tomatoes 72 

Cantaloupes,    Staked    Tomatoes,    and    Sugar    Corn,    Willow 

Brook  Farm 73 

Evergreen  Sugar  Corn.     Golden  Bantam  Sugar  Corn.     Rice 

Pop  Corn 80 

Cauliflower  and  Baby  Golden  Pop  Corn 81 

Field's  Early  June  Tomatoes.     Staked  Tomatoes  ....  88 

Livingston's  Globe  Tomatoes.     Willow  Brook  Farm    ...  89 
Flower  Garden,  Home  of  the  Gardenette,  Willow  Brook  Farm    96 

Nasturtiums.    Home  of  the  Gardenette 97 

Clematis  Paniculata.     Twin  Lilies 108 

Flowers  in  Shady  Corner.    Foxglove 109 

Types  of  Gladioli 112 

Flowers  in  Variety.    Early  Plants  in  Cold  Frame  .      .      .      .113 

Pansies  from  The  Gardenette 120 

Dorothy  Perkins  Climbing  Rose 121 

Ricinus    15    feet   high,    Willow    Brook    Farm.      Cannas    and 

Dahlias.    Sandwich  Beds 124 

Fragrant  Flowers.    Lily  of  the  Valley.    Honeysuckle  .      .      .  125 
Flowers  at  Home  of  Gardenette.     Native  Flowers,  Harebells 

and  Wild  Ferns 128 

Formal  Plan  of  Flower  Garden.    Border  of  Annuals     .      .      .  129 


PABT  I 
VEGETABLE  GABDENING 


THE   GARDENETTE 

OR  THE  CITY  BACK  YARD  GARDEN 


little  volume  is  not  designed  as  a  guide 
to  those  who  have  large  areas  to  cultivate, 
nor  is  it  intended  for  the  use  of  professional  mar- 
ket gardeners,  but  it  is  arranged  to  meet  the 
needs  of  the  beginner,  or  amateur,  and  especially 
for  those  who  have  limited  areas  that  are  avail- 
able for  this  purpose. 

Few  persons  realize  the  possibilities  of  the 
small  piece  of  ground  represented  by  the  back- 
yard of  the  ordinary  city  lot  —  that  part  which 
is  not  occupied  by  buildings.  Too  often  this  part 
of  the  yard  is  made  the  depository  of  garbage 
and  useless  trash  of  all  kinds. 

Such  accumulations  are  unsightly  and  unsani- 
tary. The  Sandwich  System  herein  described  is 
not  an  idle  theory  but  a  successful,  solid  fact,  the 
result  of  six  years  of  careful,  painstaking  experi- 
ments, and  highly  successful  efforts  in  practical 
vegetable  growing. 

This  peculiar  method  was  first  suggested  by 
noticing  the  marvelous  growth  of  weeds,  etc., 
about  the  base  of  an  old,  decaying  strawheap, 
where  some  stable  manure  had  been  dumped  on  a 
thin  layer  of  straw.  On  this  more  straw  was 
scratched  down  by  poultry.  Lastly  on  top  a  few 

13 


14  THE  GABDENETTE 

wagon  loads  of  street-scrapings,  containing  weed 
seeds,  were  dumped.  The  growth  of  these  weeds 
was  something  wonderful.  With  this  hint  for  a 
beginning,  the  marvelously  successful  Sandwich 
Bed  was  developed. 

The  surpassing  vigor  of  growth.,  the  earliness, 
large  size,  and  superior  quality  of  the  products 
grown  by  this  method,  make  gardening  a  very 
fascinating  employment,  for  it  cannot  be  denied 
that  the  ability  to  greatly  surpass  "The  Other 
Fellow "  gives  especial  gratification  to  those  en- 
gaged in  this  line  of  work. 

Where  the  space  is  limited,  only  a  few  articles 
should  be  attempted.  It  does  not  require  a  large 
area  to  grow  a  few  fine  tomatoes,  muskmelons, 
cauliflower  or  egg  plant.  Or  a  bed  of  lettuce, 
spinach  or  green  onions. 

If  only  one  square  rod  is  available,  it  will  pay 
to  have  a  "gardenette." 

SPACE  REQUIRED 

Three  square  rods  or  a  space  of  ground,  say 
eighteen  by  forty-five  feet,  can  be  made  to  pro- 
duce a  large  part  of  all  the  vegetables  needed  to 
supply  the  table  of  a  family  of  five  or  six  persons, 
throughout  the  season. 

The  author  has  repeatedly  produced  on  such  a 
plot,  but  containing  four  square  rods,  about  the 
following : 

30  Dozen  Green  Onions  25  Choice  Egg  Plant  Fruits 

1  Bushel  Dry  Onions  25  Extra  Fine  Squashes 

10  Messes  Green  Peas  50  Messes  Lettuce 

15  Dozen  Beets  20  Messes  Endive 

22  Dozen  Radishes  10  Messes  Kohl  Rabi 

200  Heads  Fine  Celery  8  Dozen  Sugar  Corn 


VEGETABLE  GAEDENING  15 

10  Messes  Green  Beans  50  Fine  Muskmelons 

25  Heads    Finest    Cauliflower      200  Pickling  Cucumbers 

25  Heads  Cabbage  10  Slicing  Cucumbers 

20  Messes  Spinach  5  Bushels   Tomatoes 

10  Messes  Chard  2  Bushels  Early  Potatoes 

20  Messes  Asparagus  8  Quarts  Lima  Beans 

10  Messes   Salsify  3  Bushels  Turnips 

10  Dozen  Carrots  3  Quarts  Okra 

10  Dozen  Parsnips  3  Dozen  Sweet  Mangoes 

At  a  low  estimate  these  are  worth  $40.  Often 
they  would  cost  much  more  to  buy.  But  it  is  not 
only  the  market  value  of  the  vegetables,  but  the 
freshness  and  fine  quality  that  should  be  consid- 
ered. Green  onions,  radishes,  green  peas,  beans, 
lettuce,  spinach,  and  especially  celery,  rapidly 
lose  their  crisp  freshness  when  gathered  and  ex- 
posed for  sale  a  few  days  before  they  are  used. 

When  grown  in  the  home  garden  they  come  to 
the  table  with  all  their  fine  flavor  unimpaired. 

Then,  for  the  business  or  professional  man, 
who  toils  all  day  in  office,  bank,  factory  or  shop, 
the  change  to  the  light  physical  labor  in  the  open 
air  and  bright  sunshine,  gives  just  the  needed 
change  necessary  for  health  of  both  body  and 
mind.  Such  employment  will  be  found  restful 
and  soothing  to  the  overtaxed  and  wearied  mind 
and  nerves. 

A  love  for  digging  in  the  soil  seems  inherent. 
Try  it,  and  you  will  soon  learn  to  look  forward 
with  pleasurable  anticipations  to  the  hour  before 
breakfast,  in  the  cool,  dewy  mornings,  and  the 
hour  after  supper,  when  the  heat  of  the  day  is 
over,  that  you  may  spend  in  the  light,  delightful 
work  of  planting,  hoeing  and  watering. 

Watching  the  growth  and  development  of  the 
plants  is  a  constant  source  of  joy  and  delight. 


16  THE  GABDENETTE 

You  forget  the  cares  and  worries,  and  gather  new 
courage  for  the  morrow. 

Indeed,  Amateur  Gardening  appeals  to  most  of 
us  in  a  way  that  is  totally  unlike  any  other  em- 
ployment. The  liking  for  the  work  seems  intui- 
tive: perhaps  because  it  brings  us  very  close  to 
nature;  possibly  because  there  seems  in  the  hu- 
man mind  a  lingering  memory  of  the  Lost  Eden. 
At  any  rate,  this  desire  and  taste  for  gardening 
is  universal,  and  deserves  to  be  encouraged,  for 
it  tends  to  tranquillity  of  mind,  and  is  conducive 
both  to  health  and  longevity. 

SMALL  DETAILS 

The  author  assumes  that  the  reader  is  without 
practical  knowledge  of  gardening.  Hence  the 
care  in  preparing  this  guide  in  describing  and 
explaining  even  the  most  trivial  details  of  the 
work,  for  success  often  depends  upon  the  small 
matters,  which  most  authors  ignore,  forgetting 
that  many  successful  business  men  have  neither 
time  nor  opportunity  to  master  the  minor  details 
of  a  profession  which  demands  work  to  which 
most  men  are  strangers.  Then  it  may  be  that 
there  are  boys,  ten  to  fifteen  years  old,  who  can 
be  interested  in  this  fascinating  work  during  the 
summer's  vacation.  It  is  certainly  an  ideal  oc- 
cupation for  most  boys,  as  it  affords  a  method 
of  outlet  for  surplus  energy,  while  the  sense  of 
proprietorship,  and  the  self-respect  which  al- 
ways accompanies  successful,  productive  en- 
deavor, all  aid  in  the  formation  of  good,  indus- 
trious habits  and  manly  character.  Give  the  boy 


VEGETABLE  GAEDENING  17 

a  chance.  It  is  far  better  than  summer  excur- 
sions to  the  country  in  doubtful  company. 

I  would  suggest  that  the  family  pay  to  the  boy 
or  girl  a  fair  price  for  all  the  fresh  vegetables 
used,  as  a  just  and  reasonable  recompense  for 
the  labor  and  care  involved. 

The  family  gets  fresh  vegetables  at  a  fair  price, 
and  labor  receives  its  just  reward.  Try  it.  En- 
courage the  boys  and  girls  in  forming  habits  of 
industry. 

THE  SANDWICH  SYSTEM 

The  method  of  growing  vegetables  of  great 
earliness  and  superior  quality,  herein  described, 
is  new  and  entirely  unique.  By  it,  the  products 
of  the  garden  are  always  earlier,  and  at  the  same 
time  of  better  quality  than  can  possibly  be  pro- 
duced in  any  other  way. 

Why  is  this  method  superior  to  other  meth- 
ods? 

First — Finest  vegetables  can  be  grown  on  hard, 
stony,  or  alkaline  soils,  where  ordinary  cultiva- 
tion would  be  utterly  fruitless.  Even  where 
"made"  soils,  consisting  mainly  of  brickbats  and 
old  wall  plaster,  the  Sandwich  Beds  flourish.  A 
solid  rock,  a  paved  street,  or  the  tops  of  flat 
roofed  buildings  could  be  made  into  successful 
gardens  by  this  method. 

For  best  results  plants  need  aeration  at  the 
roots.  If  air  cannot  penetrate  to  the  roots  the 
plant  languishes  and  dies  from  suffocation. 
When  the  surface  of  the  ground  is  covered  with 
water,  the  plant  suffers  in  the  same  way  and  for 


18  THE  GAEDENETTE 

the  same  reason.  The  Sandwich  Beds  can 
neither  be  drowned  or  smothered.  The  air  cir- 
culates through  the  several  layers  of  material, 
and  if  too  much  water  is  applied,  it  readily 
passes  through  the  fibrous  beds  and  does  no 
harm. 

Second — Fertility  is  placed  just  where  it  can 
be  easily  absorbed  and  assimilated  by  the  plants. 

Third — The  fibrous  nature  of  the  bed  causes  it 
to  warm  up  earlier  than  does  the  natural  soil. 

Fourth — While  hydrant  water  must  be  sup- 
plied as  often  as  needed,  in  practice  it  is  found 
that  this  form  of  bed  does  not  require  as  much 
water  as  would  be  supposed,  for  the  decaying 
mass  of  fibrous  material  retains  moisture  in  a 
way  that  is  surprising. 

All  kinds  of  vegetables  and  most  of  flowering 
plants  do  wonderfully  well  on  Sandwich  Beds. 
Celery,  spinach,  endive,  chard,  cabbage,  cauli- 
flower, kohl-rabi,  Brussels  sprouts,  etc.,  do  excep- 
tionally well.  For  peas,  radishes,  carrots,  sal- 
sify, parsnips,  etc.,  where  the  soil  is  fairly  good, 
it  seems  best  to  first  spade  the  ground  as  de- 
scribed in  "The  Modified  Sandwich  Bed,"  mixing 
in  manure,  and  after  raking  fine  and  level,  cover 
surface  with  a  couple  of  inches  of  compost.  This 
latter  method  is  better  for  those  vegetables  that 
have  long,  penetrating  roots. 

Directions  for  Making  Sandwich  Beds 

First — Place  a  layer  of  straw  or  stable  litter 
or  leaves,  about  five  inches  deep.  Tramp  or  pack 
pretty  firm  and  smooth. 


VEGETABLE  GAEDENING  19 

Second — Spread  over  this  a  layer  about  one 
inch  deep  of  rich,  fine  stable  manure. 

Third — On  this  place  another  layer  of  stable  lit- 
ter about  two  inches  thick.  Tramp  or  pack  this 
down  firm.  Then  turn  on  the  hose,  and  give  the 
mass  a  thorough  soaking,  but  stop  before  leach- 
ing begins. 

Fourth — spread  evenly  over  the  bed  at  least 
four  inches  of  street  scrapings,  but  avoid  streets 
that  have  oil  or  asphalt  in  their  make-up.  If 
street  scrapings  cannot  be  readily  obtained,  use 
instead,  a  compost,  of  equal  parts  of  fine  river 
sand,  rich  garden  soil  and  old,  fine  stable  manure. 
Mix  by  shoveling  over  in  a  heap. 

After  all  is  in  place,  tramp  till  firm  and  it  is 
ready  to  plant. 

It  has  been  found  that  autumn  is  the  best  time 
to  prepare  the  Sandwich  Beds.  They  will  dry 
off  and  warm  up  very  early  in  the  spring.  How- 
ever, a  spring-made  bed  is  just  as  successful  if 
the  directions  are  carefully  followed. 

The  Modified  Sandwich  Bed 

It  sometimes  happens  that  the  real  Sandwich 
Bed  is  not  possible  or  practicable;  in  such  cases, 
if  the  soil  is  reasonably  fertile,  and  in  good  con- 
dition, the  following  method  may  be  successfully 
adopted. 

Procure  one  load  of  rich  stable  manure  for  each 
square  rod  of  ground  and  have  it  dumped  on  or 
near  where  the  beds  are  to  be  made.  With  a 
spading  fork,  beginning  at  one  end  of  the  bed, 
spade  a  furrow  across  the  bed;  fill  this  furrow 


20  THE  GAEDENETTE 

nearly  full  of  manure,  tramp  down  firm;  then 
spade  another  furrow,  throwing  the  dirt  over  the 
manure  thus  tramped  into  this  first  furrow.  Fill 
the  second  furrow  with  manure  as  before,  and 
again  throw  the  dirt  upon  this  from  the  next  line 
of  spading,  thus  alternately  filling  furrow  and 
spading,  proceed  until  the  entire  bed  is  spaded. 
If  this  bed  is  made  in  autumn,  use  more  straw, 
leaves  or  litter  mixed  with  the  manure.  Then 
cover  the  entire  surface  with  street  scrapings  or 
compost,  as  before  described,  and  rake  smooth. 

After  the  first  year  with  the  Sandwich  Beds 
there  will  be  an  abundance  of  compost,  as  all  the 
body  of  the  bed  will  be  turned  into  compost  of  the 
finest  quality. 

There  should  be  a  generous  supply  of  this  com- 
post on  hand  at  all  times,  as  it  will  be  found  very 
valuable  for  enriching  flower  beds,  etc.  It  is  also 
just  what  is  needed  for  potting  plants,  and  filling 
flats  for  starting  early  plants. 

It  usually  happens  that  street  scrapings  can 
be  had  at  a  small  cost  if  a  convenient  place  for 
unloading  is  arranged,  as  it  often  saves  a  long 
haul  to  a  public  dump.  And  a  modest  tip  to  the 
driver  will  help.  The  real  value  of  this  material 
is  not  generally  understood  or  appreciated. 

TOOLS  AND  APPLIANCES 

A  steel  garden  rake,  spading  fork,  small  gar- 
den trowel,  a  long  handled  shovel,  a  manure  fork, 
and  a  small  hand  sprayer  are  about  all  the  tools 
that  need  be  purchased. 

The  author  uses  a  small  hand  sprayer  which  is 
cheap  and  very  satisfactory.  It  has  a  quart 


VEGETABLE  GAEDENING  21 

Mason  glass  jar  for  a  reservoir,  and  has  the  ad- 
vantage of  blowing  the  spray  at  right  angles 
from  the  barrel  of  the  machine.  With  it  the 
under  side  of  leaves  can  be  effectually  reached, 
and  this  is  often  essential  to  success.  The  bar- 
rel should  be  of  brass,  as  many  spraying  com- 
pounds are  corrosive  on  iron.  With  this  little 
machine,  and  a  supply  of  Bordeaux  Mixture,  Hel- 
lebore, Tobacco  Extract  or  Tea,  Paris  Green, 
Aphine,  etc.,  the  careful  gardener  is  well  forti- 
fied against  attacks  of  insects  and  fungi.  All 
these  poisons  should  be  supplied  in  advance,  so 
as  to  be  ready  at  a  moment's  notice,  as  delays  are 
often  costly.  As  some  of  the  above  articles  are 
very  poisonous,  it  is  wise  to  keep  them  in  a  box, 
and  under  lock  and  key.  The  box  should  be  large 
enough  to  contain  all  the  needed  poisons  and  the 
little  sprayer.  Directions  for  use  will  be  found 
under  appropriate  heads. 

In  addition  to  the  tools  mentioned  above,  a 
"float"  is  very  convenient.  This  is  a  board  one- 
half  inch  thick,  four  inches  wide,  and  ten  inches 
long.  A  piece  of  broom  handle,  eight  inches  long, 
is  firmly  nailed  to  the  center  of  the  board,  using 
at  least  four  long,  slim  nails.  This  implement  is 
used  to  make  the  surface  of  the  bed  smooth,  like- 
wise for  firming  the  soil  after  the  seeds  are  cov- 
ered. The  edge  of  the  float  may  be  used  to  mark 
off  rows  and  for  covering  the  seeds. 

BOARD  FRAMES 

After  the  beds  are  made,  the  use  of  frames  is 
desirable.  These  are  made  of  common  fencing 
boards,  six  inches  wide.  The  frames  should  be 


22  THE  GABDENETTE 

at  least  four  in  number,  each  twelve  feet  long  and 
six  feet  wide.  For  convenience,  these  should  be 
lightly  nailed  together,  but  not  nailed  so  firmly 
as  to  prevent  their  being  " knocked  down"  for 
winter  storing. 

Before  planting,  the  frames  are  placed  in  cor- 
rect position  on  top  of  the  beds.  A  board  six 
inches  wide  and  four  feet  long  should  be  provided, 
on  which  to  kneel  while  planting  seeds  or  trans- 
planting small  plants.  In  planting  either  seeds 
or  transplanting  small  plants,  begin  at  o.ne  end  of 
the  bed,  and  as  planting  proceeds,  move  back- 
wards until  the  bed  is  completed. 

The  beds  may  be  of  any  suitable  length,  and 
may  extend  in  any  direction,  but  the  width  should 
be  uniform,  and  should  be  constructed  a  foot 
wider  than  the  frames.  There  should  be  a  walk 
on  both  sides  of  the  bed,  at  least  two  feet  wide, 
for  convenience  in  planting,  watering,  and  gath- 
ering the  crop. 

MUSLIN  SCREENS 

For  protecting  early  plants  from  frost,  and  for 
giving  shade  to  newly  set  plants,  a  half  dozen 
muslin  screens  should  be  provided. 

These  are  made  of  inch  slats,  six  and  one-half 
feet  long,  and  exactly  three  feet  wide,  with  a  cross 
slat  in  the  middle.  Cover  the  frame  with  muslin 
a  yard  wide,  of  a  quality  costing  about  six  cents 
per  yard.  Begin  at  one  end,  using  small  tacks, 
stretching  the  muslin  pretty  tight.  Do  not  cut 
in  single  lengths,  but  stretch  the  cloth  over  the 
end,  and  tack  it  on  both  sides.  This  gives  a  dead 
air  space  between  the  muslin  covers.  These 


VEGETABLE  GABDENING  23 

screens  are  light,  cheap,  and  are  nearly,  if  not 
quite,  as  good  as  glazed  sash,  at  less  than  one- 
fourth  the  cost,  and  no  breakage  of  glass. 

The  screens  are  also  useful  in  giving  partial 
shade  to  such  succulent  plants  as  radishes,  let- 
tuce, endive  and  celery.  By  protecting  these  from 
the  heat  of  the  burning  sun,  greater  crispness 
and  brittleness  is  secured.  Used  in  this  way  the 
frames  should  be  supported  on  stakes  two  feet 
above  the  plants.  If  hard  frosts  threaten,  first 
spread  old  newspapers  over  the  tender  plants, 
then  place  the  screens  on  the  board  frames,  and 
old  rugs  or  carpets  may  be  placed  over  all.  In 
this  way,  early  plants  may  be  safely  carried 
through  pretty  hard  freezing  without  injury. 

GROUP  PLANTING 

It  does  not  seem  desirable  to  have  to  be  en- 
gaged in  planting  continuously.  And  it  so  hap- 
pens that  there  are  a  number  of  different  kinds 
of  plants  that  do  equally  well  when  planted  at  the 
same  time,  so  these  have  been  assembled  into 
groups,  and  all  the  work  necessary  for  each  group 
may  be  done  at  the  same  time. 

It  will  be  noticed  that  in  the  "First  Planting" 
there  are  peas,  radishes,  beets,  lettuce,  and  on- 
ions. These  are  semi-hardy,  and  should  be 
planted  early.  The  plan  given  need  not  be  rig- 
idly followed,  for  no  two  families  are  exactly  the 
same  in  their  likings.  Greater  or  less  quantities, 
of  each  may  be  planted,  or  such  things  as  are  not 
wanted  may  be  omitted  entirely.  The  plans  are 
merely  suggestive,  and  may  be  varied  to  suit  the 
taste  of  the  planter. 


24  THE  GARDENETTE 

The  varieties,  of  course,  may  also  be  changed. 
Those  named  have  been  found  satisfactory,  but 
others  may  do  equally  well.  These  are  given  as 
an  aid  in  selecting  the  seeds  that  will  be  needed. 
Order  your  seeds  early,  and  buy  only  of  reliable 
seedsmen. 

If  the  available  space  is  very  limited,  or  if  the 
planter  has  not  time  to  grow  plants  that  may  be 
needed  for  transplanting,  such  as  cabbage,  to- 
mato, cauliflower,  celery,  egg  plants,  etc.,  it  is 
usually  cheaper  to  buy  them  of  a  reliable  grower. 
In  this  case  the  plants  should  be  ordered  in  ad- 
vance, to  be  delivered  at  the  proper  date,  which 
the  grower  understands.  When  the  plants  are 
received,  they  should  be  set  out  promptly,  select- 
ing the  evening,  if  possible,  for  the  work.  By 
shading  the  plants  for  a  few  days  after  being  set 
out,  there  will  be  few  failures.  When  transplant- 
ing, dip  the  roots  in  a  puddle  made  of  clay  and 
water,  about  the  consistency  of  cream,  and  in  set- 
ting, press  the  soil  very  firm  around  the  roots. 

After  the  plants  are  established,  remove  the 
screens,  or  the  plants  will  blanch  and  become  ten- 
der. Always  order  a  few  more  plants  than  are 
needed  to  fill  the  space  allotted.  Set  the  surplus 
plants  in  rich  soil :  water  and  shade  them.  These 
can  be  used  later  to  refill  vacant  places,  for  acci-  r 
dents,  cut-worms  and  other  enemies  are  pretty 
sure  to  destroy  occasional  plants,  and  vacant 
places  in  the  garden  are  unsightly. 


VEGETABLE  GABDENING  25 

QUICK   GERMINATION 

The  best  success  in  growing  plants  from  seeds 
depends  in  a  large  measure  upon  quick  and  per- 
fect germination,  or  "  sprouting. " 

Seeds  of  plants  are,  primarily,  germs,  intended 
to  produce  young  plants  of  the  same  genus.  Be- 
sides the  germ,  the  seed  also  consists  of  a  packet 
of  Baby  Plant  Food,  containing  exactly  the  ele- 
ments necessary  to  furnish  the  nourishment 
needed  to  support  the  tiny  plant  until  such  time 
as  will  enable  it  to  develop  roots  and  leaves,  so 
that  it  may  be  able  to  absorb  and  assimilate  from 
the  soil  its  own  food,  through  natural  means  pro- 
vided for  this  purpose.  If  germination  is  de- 
layed or  much  retarded  by  unfavorable  condi- 
tions, there  is  danger  that  this  supply  of  food, 
contained  in  the  seed,  will  be  spoiled  by  fermen- 
tation or  decay,  and  the  helpless  little  plant  will 
be  starved.  Even  if  the  plant  survives,  it  re- 
mains a  stunted  weakling  that  rarely  ever  recov- 
ers its  normal  vigor  and  vitality. 

Who  has  not  seen  a  corn  field  in  exactly  this 
condition,  when  germination  has  occupied  two  or 
three  weeks?  Nine  times  out  of  ten  this  spells 
crop  failure.  Try  to  secure  quick  germination: 
the  quicker  the  better.  The  necessary  conditions 
are  fertility,  warmth,  moisture  and  aeration  of 
the  roots.  In  all  these  respects  the  Sandwich 
Beds  supply  ideal  conditions. 

Early  in  the  season  there  is  often  a  lack  of  sun- 
shine and  warmth,  and,  therefore,  there  is  more 
or  less  trouble  with  seeds  rotting.  Nearly  all  of 
this  can  be  easily  avoided  by  sprouting  the  seeds 


26  THE  GARDENETTE 

before  planting.  If  the  seeds  are  really  worth- 
less, the  fact  is  discovered  in  time  to  secure  a 
fresh  supply.  Plants  started  by  sprouting  pos- 
sess more  vigor,  are  more  sturdy  and  thrifty,  and 
will  thrive  and  do  well  when  poor,  sickly  plants 
would  utterly  fail.  The  author  uses  a  home- 
made machine  for  sprouting  that  does  the  work 
admirably. 

THE   PLANT  INCUBATOB 

This  is  especially  useful  when  early  plants  can- 
not be  easily  obtained  from  regular  growers,  or 
when  special  varieties  are  wanted,  and  the  plants 
must  be  grown  at  home. 

The  author  usually  has  one  to  three  of  these 
machines  in  constant  use  from  March  to  May,  for 
in  the  latitude  of  central  Ohio,  frosts  and  cold 
nights  make  it  difficult  to  grow  good  early  plants. 

With  this  machine,  fine  early  plants  may  be  had 
in  abundance  and  great  variety,  at  a  small  cost. 
With  it  in  the  South,  plants  may  be  grown  all 
winter,  and  be  ready  to  transplant  at  any  time  de- 
sired, regardless  of  " northers"  or  sudden  cold 
snaps. 

The  machines  are  heated  with  common  kero- 
sine  lamps  at  a  cost,  on  an  average,  of  two  cents 
for  each  twenty-four  hours.  Usually  very  little 
fire  will  be  needed,  except  during  cloudy,  cold  and 
windy  days,  and  chilly  nights,  and  by  simply 
lighting  the  lamps,  the  plants  can  be  snfely  car- 
ried over  spells  of  unfavorable  weather. 

The  Plant  Incubator  consists  of  a  cubical  box, 
two  feet  each  way,  with  a  roomy  door  in  one  side. 
This  box  forms  the  lamp  chamber.  The  top  is 


VEGETABLE  GARDENING  27 

open.  A  piece  of  sheet  iron  as  wide  as  the  in- 
side of  the  box  and  four  inches  longer,  has  two 
inches  turned  up  at  right  angles  at  each  end. 
This  is  tacked  to  the  inside  of  the  box  so  that  it 
will  be  held  in  place,  two  inches  below  the  top  of 
the  box.  The  sheet  iron  receives  and  distributes 
the  heat  from  the  lamp  beneath.  The  lamp 
should  be  so  placed  that  the  top  of  the  chimney 
is  four  inches  below  the  sheet  iron.  Cleats  are 
nailed  on  the  outside  of  the  box  above  the  door, 
and  on  the  outside  opposite,  to  support  the  air 
chamber,  which  is  made  of  two  boards  six  feet 
long  and  six  inches  wide,  boarded  over  the  ends 
and  bottom,  except  where  it  is  slipped  over  the 
top  of  the  lamp  chamber.  This  should  fit  snugly 
so  that  there  will  be  no  waste  of  heat.  It  is  best 
to  line  the  entire  inside  of  both  the  lamp  chamber 
and  the  hot  air  chamber  with  cheap  asbestos 
paper,  pasting  it  on  with  common  flour  paste.  A 
small  hole  must  be  provided  near  the  bottom  of 
the  lamp  chamber  for  ingress  of  fresh  air,  or  the 
lamp  will  not  burn  well.  Three  " flats"  or  shal- 
low boxes,  five  inches  deep,  twenty-four  inches 
wide  and  twenty-six  inches  long,  will  form  the 
cover  for  the  hot  air  chamber.  Fill  the  flats  with 
rich  compost  mixed  with  fine  sand,  and  as  soon 
as  the  soil  becomes  mildly  warm,  it  is  ready  to 
receive  the  seed.  The  lamp  heats  the  diaphragm 
of  sheet  iron,  this  in  turn  imparts  its  warmth  to 
the  hot  air  chamber  and  then  heats  the  soil  in  the 
flats  above.  The  flats  should  contain  three 
inches  of  soil.  In  this  the  plants  will  thrive  won- 
derfully. 
Each  flat  will  grow  150  plants.  After  the 


28  THE  GARDENETTE 

plants  are  about  two  inches  high,  the  author  usu- 
ally prepares  three  more  flats  which  are  placed 
next  to  the  hot  air  chamber,  and  the  ones  con- 
taining the  plants  are  placed  on  top  of  the  new 
ones,  thus  one  machine  will  heat  six  flats,  which 
will  grow  900  plants.  During  mild,  sunny  days, 
the  upper  flats  are  removed  to  a  sheltered  place 
through  the  day,  and  are  returned  to  their  posi- 
tion above  the  later  plantings  at  night.  A  frame 
of  twelve-inch  boards  fits  outside  the  flats,  and  a 
cover  of  double  muslin  screens  protects  the  plants 
during  the  night,  or  on  cold,  stormy  days.  The 
machine  may  be  placed  in  a  warm  room  by  a  win- 
dow, in  an  unused  room,  on  a  sheltered  veranda, 
or,  after  cold  weather  is  over,  it  may  be  placed 
in  the  garden,  or  out  of  doors  anywhere. 

The  hot  air  chamber  furnishes  ideal  conditions 
for  sprouting  seeds  in  effecting  quick  germina- 
tion. 

SPKOUTING    SEEDS 

Procure  pieces  of  common  burlap,  each  twelve 
by  twenty-four  inches.  Pour  the  seeds  on  one 
end :  fold  the  burlap  from  both  sides :  roll  up  and 
fasten  with  a  pin.  Prepare  a  label  giving  name, 
date,  etc.  Then  into  a  pan  containing  half  a  pint 
of  warm  but  not  hot  water,  drop  three  or  four 
drops  of  spirits  of  camphor.  Now  place  the  roll 
containing  the  seeds  in  this  water  for  twenty  min- 
utes. Press  out  lightly  so  there  will  be  no  drip- 
ping; wrap  in  four  or  five  thicknesses  of  old 
newspaper,  and  place  where  the  temperature  is 
regular  and  about  seventy-five  degrees.  The  hot 
air  chamber  furnishes  exactly  these  conditions. 


VEGETABLE  GARDENING  29 

Examine  the  seeds  daily,  and  if  dry,  water  with 
lukewarm  water.  As  soon  as  the  germ  shows, 
plant  at  once,  or  there  is  danger  of  losing  the 
seed.  With  most  of  seeds  there  will  be  a  gain  of 
six  to  twelve  days  in  time,  and  the  seedlings  will 
possess  surpassing  vigor.  A  fair  trial  will  con- 
vince any  one  of  the  great  merits  of  this  method. 

TKAlSTSPLASrTING 

Tomatoes,  cabbage,  egg  plant,  cauliflower,  cel- 
ery and  peppers  are  much  more  satisfactory  if 
transplanted  once  or  twice.  They  should  be  first 
transplanted  when  they  have  formed  four  leaves. 
Prepare  a  flat  by  filling  in  at  least  three  inches 
of  fine  compost  with  enough  soil  to  give  it  body. 
Pick  out  the  plants  and  set  pretty  deep  and  firm 
in  rows  two  inches  apart,  and  two  inches  apart 
in  the  row.  By  using  flats  twenty-four  by  twen- 
ty-six inches,  150  plants  will  just  fill  a  flat. 

After  planting,  water  well,  and  place  in  the 
Plant  Incubator  with  flats  sown  with  fresh  seeds 
placed  beneath  them.  This  will  usually  make 
them  warm  enough  for  healthy  growth.  A  small 
muslin  screen  for  cover  will  help. 

When  the  plants  are  four  inches  high,  they 
should  be  again  transplanted  to  small  pots  or  old 
strawberry  baskets,  one  plant  to  each,  and  set 
closely  in  flats  which  contain  an  inch  of  sand,  or 
else  if  you  have  it,  set  them  in  a  cold  frame  or 
pit.  This,  of  course,  is  some  trouble,  but  the 
greatly  increased  stockiness  and  sturdiness  of  the 
plants  so  secured  will  richly  repay  the  extra 
labor.  For  extra  early  crops  of  tomatoes,  egg 
plant,  cauliflower  and  peppers,  the  plants  may  be 


30  THE  GAEDENETTE 

eight  to  twelve  inches  high  when  set  out  in  the 
open  ground.  With  some  protection  as  given  by 
the  " boosters"  plants  will  thrive  and  come  to 
maturity  greatly  in  advance  of  plants  which  have 
not  been  transplanted. 

In  transplanting  to  the  open  ground  it  is  best 
to  plant  basket  and  all,  after  slightly  crushing  the 
bottom,  just  as  the  plant  is  placed  in  position. 
Give  each  plant  a  quart  of  water,  and  rake  in  some 
fine  dirt  to  prevent  the  formation  of  a  crust. 
Then  by  covering  with  a  booster,  the  plant  will 
start  to  grow  at  once.  If  the  weather  is  very 
hot  at  the  time  of  transplanting,  turn  the  booster 
so  that  the  glass  will  be  on  the  north  side.  Two 
days  later  place  the  booster  so  that  the  glass  faces 
the  sun  at  ten  o'clock,  and  ventilate  by  removing 
the  cap  during  the  heat  of  the  day.  In  mild 
weather  the  cap  may  be  left  off  altogether. 

In  the  absence  of  boosters,  a  double  thickness 
of  newspaper,  coiled  in  a  conical  shape  and  held 
in  place  by  earth  placed  on  the  edges,  will  serve 
very  well.  The  paper  may  be  left  on  during  cold, 
windy  weather,  but  must  not  remain  too  long,  or 
the  plant  will  become  blanched  and  weakened. 
The  paper  can  be  held  in  shape  by  using  small 
nails  as  pins. 

THE   PLANT  FOECEE   OB  BOOSTEE 

With  many  kinds  of  vegetables,  earliness  is  of 
prime  importance.  Extra  early  tomatoes  usu- 
ally bring  a  much  higher  price  than  those  that 
ripen  a  few  days  or  a  week  later.  The  same  is 
true  of  slicing  cucumbers,  sweet  corn,  muskmel- 


VEGETABLE  GABDENING  31 

ons,  etc.  By  use  of  the  Plant  Incubator  and  pots, 
paper  bands  or  old  strawberry  baskets  for  indi- 
vidual plants,  there  can  be  a  decided  gain  in  the 
time  required  to  get  the  plants  ready  for  setting 
out  in  the  open  ground.  But  cold  nights  and 
cold  winds,  especially  in  cloudy  weather,  prevent 
anything  like  satisfactory  growth  after  the  plants 
are  placed  out  of  doors.  The  use  of  boosters  at 
this  time  will  be  found  a  great  help,  as  they  pro- 
tect the  tender  plants  from  cold  winds  and  even 
from  frosts,  as  the  soil  around  the  roots  of  the 
plants  within  the  booster  is  several  degrees 
warmer  than  that  outside.  By  raking  up  the  soil 
around  the  booster,  additional  protection  is  given. 
If  hard  frosts  threaten,  cover  the  plant,  booster 
and  all,  with  double  thickness  of  newspaper,  held 
down  by  dirt,  the  top  of  the  paper  held  tight  to- 
gether with  small  nails  or  pins. 

Protected  in  this  manner,  plants  will  not  suffer 
even  if  the  temperature  goes  down  several  degrees 
below  freezing.  Early  sugar  corn,  tomatoes,  cu- 
cumbers, muskmelons,  very  early  cabbage  and  egg 
plant  are  greatly  advanced  by  this  means.  Even 
Lima  beans  and  watermelons  may  be  advanced 
ten  days  by  the  use  of  the  boosters. 

The  boosters  are  made  of  Flintkote  or  similar 
roofing.  Two-ply  will  answer,  though  it  will  be 
found  advantageous  in  the  long  run  to  use  the 
heavier  grade.  This  material  does  not  warp  or 
rot.  It  has  stood  the  test  for  four  seasons  and 
looks  as  though  it  would  last  for  four  years  more. 
When  the  season  is  over,  the  sheets  may  be  un- 
hooked, spread  out  flat,  and  stored  in  a  small 


32  THE  GABDENETTE 

space.  They  are  really  needed  for  only  a  montli 
or  two,  and  should  not  be  allowed  to  lie  around 
in  the  way,  all  summer. 

HOW   TO   MAKE   THE   BOOSTEKS 

Flintkote  roofing  comes  in  rolls  or  sheets  thir- 
ty-six inches  wide,  and  thirty-six  feet  long.  This 
allows  exactly  four  strips,  nine  inches  wide,  to 
be  cut  as  shown  in  the  drawing.  The  long  edge 
or  bottom  of  the  booster  is  twenty-four  inches, 
and  the  short  edge  is  fourteen  inches.  By  revers- 
ing each  time,  and  cutting  as  shown,  there  will 
be  little  or  no  waste  of  material.  A  single  sheet 
will  make  seventy-six  boosters,  caps  and  all, 
when  the  glass  used  are  eight  by  ten  inches.  For 
larger  plants,  cut  the  roofing  into  three  strips 
twelve  inches  wide,  twenty-six  and  sixteen  inches 
on  either  edge,  and  use  glass  ten  by  fourteen 
inches.  For  very  large  single  plants,  or  for  forc- 
ing rhubarb,  asparagus,  and  large  plants,  the  ma- 
terial may  be  cut  eighteen  inches  wide,  thirty  and 
twenty  inches  long,  and  glass  twelve  by  twenty 
should  be  used. 

The  caps  are  of  same  material,  and  are  cut  in 
the  shape  of  a  letter  D,  and  should  be  one  inch 
greater  in  diameter  than  the  top  of  the  booster. 
The  sides  of  the  cap  are  bent  down  so  that  they 
will  readily  slide  between  the  wire  handles.  The 
hooks  are  made  of  No.  11  wire,  and  should  be 
nearly  an  inch  longer  than  the  width  of  the  pane 
of  glass  used,  so  that  the  glass  may  slide  easily 
into  position.  A  small  wooden  wedge  pressed 
between  the  wire  and  the  glass  will  hold  them  se- 
curely in  place.  The  bail  or  handle  is  also  made 


HOOKS 


o 


BAIL  OR    HANDLE 


O 


PATTERN 

FOR 
8X10  GLASS 


\    /\/\/\/\/\/\ 


/\/\/\/\/\/\/\ 


/\/\/\/\/\/\/\ 


/\/\/\/\/\/\/\ 


TO    CUT    ROOFING     WITHOUT    WASTE 

DETAILS  OF  PLANT  FORCER  OR  BOOSTER. 


VEGETABLE  GAKDENING  33 

of  the  same  size  wire,  and  serves  to  carry  the 
booster  from  place  to  place,  and  hold  the  cap  in 
position.  It  will  be  found  convenient  in  punch- 
ing the  holes  for  the  handle  and  hooks,  to  first 
make  a  pattern  and  then,  by  placing  a  dozen  or 
more  sheets  of  the  roofing  in  a  pile,  perforate  the 
whole  lot  at  one  operation.  This  insures  uniform- 
ity, which  is  important,  as  all  the  parts  are  then 
interchangeable. 

The  odor  of  the  tar  or  asphalt  which  attaches 
to  nearly  all  kinds  of  roofing,  does  not  seem  to  be 
harmful  to  the  plants. 

USING  THE  BOOSTERS 

Early  cabbage,  cauliflower  and  lettuce  are 
nearly  hardy,  and  need  protection  but  for  about 
two  weeks.  They  should  be  "hardened"  by  leav- 
ing off  the  caps  for  a  week ;  then  the  booster  may 
be  taken  away  and  used  on  other  plants,  such  as 
tomato  and  egg  plants.  But  even  with  these  ten- 
der plants  they  should  not  be  left  on  too  long. 
Usually  the  caps  are  first  removed,  and  if  the 
weather  is  suitable,  the  entire  protection  taken 
away  before  the  plants  become  drawn. 

For  cucumbers,  melons  and  squashes,  the 
boosters  furnish  excellent  protection  against  the 
striped  beetle.  By  use  of  tobacco  dust,  and  moth 
balls,  it  is  easy  to  head  off  these  destroyers,  as 
the  odors  are  more  powerful  and  lasting  inside 
the  machine.  To  keep  out  the  bugs  when  the  caps 
are  removed,  substitute  a  cap  made  of  fly-screen 
wire. 

In  using  the  booster,  be  sure  to  keep  soil  well 
raked  up  around  the  machine. 


34  THE  GAEDENETTE 


THE  POST   HOLE   METHOD 

FOR 
GROWING  MELONS,   CUCUMBERS  AND   SQUASHES 

The  essentials  for  growing  these  vines  and 
fruits  in  perfection  are — 

Fertility  in  available  form, 

Moisture,  without  "sogginess," 

SAND! 

While  all  of  these  vines  delight  in  a  sandy  soil, 
both  kinds  of  melons  will  only  reach  their  greatest 
perfection  in  size  and  flavor  where  there  is  much 
sand  in  the  soil.  It  is  sand  that  makes  southern 
Indiana  and  Georgia  famous  for  their  melons. 

The  Post  Hole  Method  is  adapted  to  growing 
these  luscious  vegetables  in  limited  areas,  for  a 
few  hills  can  be  made  in  odd  corners  and  out-of- 
the-way  places,  the  only  natural  condition  neces- 
sary being  that  of  plenty  of  sunshine.  The  soil 
is  neither  plowed  nor  spaded. 

Preparation  of  the  Hills 

Dig  a  hole  the  size  of  a  wash  tub  and  about  ten 
inches  deep.  In  the  bottom  of  this  hole,  and  in 
the  center  of  it,  dig,  with  a  common  post  auger, 
or  a  narrow  spade,  a  hole  two  feet  deep  and  ten 
inches  in  diameter.  Fill  the  post-hole  with  coarse 
stable  litter  avoiding  sawdust,  and  pack  this 
down  pretty  firm.  Fill  the  entire  excavation  with 
a  compost  made  up  of  two  parts  sand,  one  part 
fine,  well  rotted  manure,  and  one  part  good  gar- 
den soil.  Mix  thoroughly  by  shoveling  over  sev- 
eral times.  In  finishing  the  filling,  preserve  the 
bowl-like  depression  toward  the  center.  When 


VEGETABLE  GAEDENING  35 

completed  the  hill  should  be  about  eighteen  inches 
in  diameter,  and  six  or  eight  inches  above  the 
level.  Several  days  before  planting,  pour  into 
the  depression,  six  to  ten  gallons  of  water  to  fur- 
nish a  store  of  moisture.  When  the  soil  is  again 
dry  enough  to  "work,"  the  hill  is  ready  for  plant- 
ing. 

Select  the  choicest  varieties  and  buy  the  best 
seed  obtainable.  Plant  ten  seeds  in  a  hill,  and 
cover  two  inches  deep.  Nearly  a  week  can  be 
gained  with  this  kind  of  plants  by  sprouting  the 
seed  as  described  in  " Quick  Germination." 

For  the  striped  bug  or  beetle,  place  two  or  three 
moth  balls  in  the  hill  when  the  plants  first  break 
through  the  ground;  or  sprinkle  tobacco  dust,  a 
handful  to  the  hill,  on  the  soil  before  the  plants 
are  up;  or  a  lure  may  be  planted,  say  two  feet  dis- 
tant, in  a  circular  furrow,  using  any  cheap  musk- 
melon,  squash  or  cucumber  seed,  but  use  no  to- 
bacco on  these.  Permit  the  bugs  to  feast  on  the 
lure,  which  they  will  do  to  avoid  the  tobacco  on 
the  good  plants.  Kerosene,  or  common  coal  oil, 
mixed  with  lime  or  ashes  and  sprinkled  over  the 
hills,  often  helps. 

For  leaf  blight  in  muskmelons,  prevention  is 
easier  than  cure.  Get  a  pound  each  of  sulphur 
and  dry  air-slaked  lime.  Mix  thoroughly,  and 
sow  around  the  hill  for  three  or  four  feet,  on  top 
of  the  ground,  after  the  planting  is  done.  This 
amount  will  be  enough  for  a  dozen  hills.  This  is 
intended  to  destroy  the  spores  of  the  fungus  that 
cause  leaf  blight.  Eepeat  after  the  plants  are 
up,  dusting  the  hill  thoroughly.  Or  spray  with 
Bordeaux  Mixture,  somewhat  diluted  with  water. 


36  THE  GAEDENETTE 

Spraying  should  begin  when  plants  are  four 
inches  high,  and  should  be  repeated  every  ten 
days. 

Hills  of  melons,  cucumbers  and  squashes  should 
be  placed  at  least  six  feet  apart.  If  droughts  oc- 
cur, the  hills  may  easily  be  watered  by  pouring 
water  into  the  bowl-like  depression,  but  before 
pouring  the  water,  make  several  holes  with  a 
small  stick  down  through  the  top  soil,  into  the 
litter  below.  After  heavy  rains  the  same  prod- 
ding should  be  done  to  prevent  drowning  of 
plants. 

Managed  in  this  way  the  yield  of  a  few  hills  is 
enormous.  The  same  treatment,  outlined  above 
for  muskmelons,  omitting  the  lime  and  sulphur, 
is  given  to  squashes,  cucumbers,  and  pumpkins. 

For  " melon  wilt"  pour  a  bucketful  of  fine 
manure  and  road  dust,  mixed  together,  directly 
on  the  hill,  completely  covering  the  roots  of  the 
plants.  Do  this  when  vines  are  about  two  feet 
long.  It  is  believed  that  the  wilt  is  caused  by 
sun  scald  of  the  stems  near  the  roots.  Covering 
these,  in  time,  usually  checks  or  entirely  prevents 
this  destructive  disease. 

SUCCESSION   TO  FIRST  PLANTING 

By  the  middle  of  May  or  a  little  earlier,  tomato 
plants  for  early  fruiting  should  be  set.  Usually 
the  "  First  Planting "  is  out  of  the  way  or  nearly 
matured,  so  that  the  same  plot  or  bed  may  be  set 
in  early  tomato  plants,  as  marked  by  T  in  the 
diagram,  regardless  of  the  vegetables  yet  occu- 
pying the  ground.  By  the  time  that  the  tomatoes 
get  a  good  start,  all  the  vegetables  of  the  first 


VEGETABLE  GAKDENING  37 

planting  will  be  gone,  unless  it  be  the  onions,  and 
these  will  not  remain  long  enough  to  do  any  harm. 
When  the  earlier  vegetables  are  finally  re- 
moved, rake  the  soil  mellow,  and  mulch  the  to- 
mato plants  with  litter  or  coarse  manure,  cover- 
ing the  whole  bed  four  inches  deep.  This  will 
conserve  the  moisture,  and  greatly  improve  the 
fruit  in  both  quality  and  quantity.  Twenty-seven 
plants  are  required  to  fill  space  as  in  diagram. 
Better  order  three  dozen  plants,  and  "heel  out" 
the  surplus  for  replacing.  Varieties  for  this 
planting:  Field's  Early  June,  Earliana,  Globe, 
Ponderosa.  Other  varieties  that  are  good  are 
Livingston's  Stone,  Bonny  Best,  Favorite,  and 
Marketeer.  For  directions  in  growing  extra 
early  tomatoes,  staking,  mulching,  and  general 
cultural  directions,  see  page  72. 

The  following  ten  pages  show  practical  dia- 
grams and  complete  detail  directions  for  plant- 
ing vegetables  correctly. 


38  THE  GAEDENETTE 


. .  Peas 

. .  Peas 

Radishes  

Radishes  

. .  Peas 

. .  Peas 

,    Beets    , 

,    Beets    

, .  Peas , 

. .  Peas , 

Lettuce    , 

Lettuce    , 

, .  Peas 

, .  Peas 

Lettuce    ^ 

Lettuce    . 


Peas 


. . . .  Peas  . . . 

Onion  (Sets) 
Onion  (Sets) 
Onion  (Sets) 
Onion  (Sets) 
Onion  (Sets) 
Onion  (Sets) 
Onion  (Sets) 
Onion  (Sets) 
Onion  (Sets) 
Onion  (Sets) 
Onion  (Sets) 
Onion  (Sets) 
Onion  (Sets) 

6  feet 


VEGETABLE  GAEDENING  39 

Date  of  planting:  as  early  in  spring  as  ground  is  dry  enough 
to  work — usually  about  March  25  to  April  10. 

This  is  written  for  latitude  of  Columbus,  Ohio.  Localities  of 
100  miles  northward  will  be  ten  days  later:  same  distance  south- 
ward, ten  days  earlier.  For  200  miles  north  or  south,  allow  fif- 
teen to  twenty  days;  allowance  should  be  made  for  elevation  and 
local  conditions  also.  The  plants  named  are  all  hardy  enough 
to  withstand  considerable  frosts. 

PEAS.     Varieties:  Early  Alaska,  Little  Gem,  Gradus. 

Quantity  of  Seed:  E.  Alaska  one-half  pint;  Little  Gem  one- 
half  pint;  Gradus  one  pint. 

Distances:  Apart  in  rows,  two  inches;  Bows  apart,  twelve 
inches. 

Depth:  Two  inches. 

All  these  varieties  require  brush  two  feet  in  height. 

RADISHES.     Varieties:   Icicle,  Scarlet  Turnip,  Scarlet  White  Tip. 
Quantity  of  Seed:  One  packet  of  each  variety. 
Distances:  Rows  apart,  twelve  inches;  Apart  in  rows,  three 

inches. 
Depth:  One  inch. 

BEETS.     Varieties:   Eclipse,    Ex.    Early   Egyptian,    Early   Blood 

Turnip. 
Distances:  Apart  in  rows,  four  inches;  Rows  apart,  twelve 

inches. 
Quantity  of  Seed:  One  packet  of  each  variety. 

LETTUCE.     Varieties:  Grand  Rapids,  Black  Seeded  Simpson,  Big 

Boston. 

Quantity  of  Seed:  One  packet  of  each  variety. 
Distances:  Apart  in  rows,  three  inches;  Rows  apart,  twelve 

inches. 

Depth:  One-half  inch. 
If  transplanted,  set  plants  six  inches  apart  each  way. 

ONIONS   (Sets).     Varieties:  White,  Red,  Yellow, 

Distances :  Apart  in  rows,  two  inches ;  Rows  apart,  six  inches. 

Depth:  Two  to  three  inches.  When  fit  to  pull,  remove  two 
and  leave  one.  Remove  all  of  alternate  rows;  the  re- 
mainder may  mature  for  winter  storing. 

Quantity  of  Seed:  One  quart  of  each  variety.  Onion  sets 
should  be  about  size  of  end  of  small  finger.  If  much 
larger  they  are  apt  to  go  to  seed:  if  much  smaller  they 
lack  vigor. 


40  THE  GAEDENETTE 


..X X...    Cabbage    ...X X. 

..X X...    Cabbage    ...X X. 

..X X...    Cabbage    ...X X. 

..X X..  Cauliflower  ..X X. 

..X X..  Cauliflower  ..X X. 

.  .X X..  Cauliflower  ..X X. 

Carrots    

Carrots    

Carrots    

Parsnips 

Parsnips  

Parsnips  

Salsify 

Salsify 

Salsify 

Chard   

.    Chard    . 


6  feet 


VEGETABLE  GARDENING  41 

Date:  About  April  10  to  20,  or  about  two  weeks  after  time  of 
First  Planting. 

As  these  are  principally  root  crops,  it  is  desirable  that  the  soil 
be  spaded  before  construction  of  bed.  The  trenching  method  will 
give  excellent  results. 

Where  only  a  few  cabbage  and  cauliflower  plants  are  desired, 
it  is  cheaper  to  buy  the  plants  of  a  reliable  grower. 

CABBAGE.     Varieties:  Early  Jersey  Wakefield,  Late  Flat  Dutch. 
Number  of  Plants:  One  dozen  of  each  variety. 
Distances:  Eighteen  inches  each  way.     Remove  outer  leaves. 
Set  deep.     Shade  for  a  week.     Heel  surplus  plants  in 
shady  place,  and  use  later  to  fill  vacancies. 

CAULIFLOWER.     Varieties:  Early  Snowball,  Danish  Perfection. 
Number  of  Plants:  One  dozen  of  each  variety. 
Distances:  Eighteen  inches  each  way.     Remove  outer  leaves 

and  set  deep;  shade  for  a  week.     Heel  extra  plants  to 

fill  vacancies. 

CARROTS.     Varieties:  Chantenay,  Early  Danvcrs. 
Quantity  of  Seed:  One  packet  of  each. 
Distances:  Apart  in  rows,  four  inches:  rows  apart,  eighteen 

inches. 
Depth:  Half  an  inch. 

PARSNIPS.     Varieties:  Hollow  Crown. 
Quantity  of  Seed:  One  packet. 
Distances:  Apart  in  rows,  four  inches:  rows  apart,  eighteen 

inches. 
Depth:  Half  an  inch. 

SALSIFY.     Varieties:  Mammoth  Sandwich  Islands. 
Quantity  of  Seed:  One  packet. 
Distances:  Apart  in  rows,  three  inches:  rows  apart,  eighteen 

inches. 
Depth:  One  inch. 

Sprout  seeds  of  carrots,  parsnips  and  salsify  by  use  of  wet 
burlap  cloths.  Ten  days  required  for  germination.  Plant  when 
germ  first  shows.  Parsnips  improve  by  being  left  in  ground  till 
needed  in  spring.  Salsify  may  be  dug  as  used.  It  is  improved 
by  light  frosts.  When  dug  store  in  sand  in  cellar.  Chard:  Va- 
rieties, Lucullus.  Plant  same  as  beets.  Leaves  are  used  as  spin- 
ach: the  stems  are  prepared  like  asparagus. 


42  THE  GABDENETTE 


Parsley    

Parsley  

, Peas 

Peas 

Spinach    

Spinach  

, Peas 

, Peas 

Spinach    

Spinach    

Peas 

Peas 

Lettuce    

Lettuce    

. .  E.  Ohio  Potatoes  . . 
. . . .  Early  Corn  

. .  E.  Ohio  Potatoes  . . 
.  Golden  Bantam  Corn 
, . .  E.  Ohio  Potatoes  . . 

.  Country  Gent.  Corn  . , 

Irish  Cobbler  Potatoes 

.  Country  Gent.  Corn  . , 

Irish  Cobbler  Potatoes 

.  Country  Gent.  Corn  . , 

Irish  Cobbler  Potatoes 

6  feet, 


VEGETABLE  GARDENING  43 

Date,  April  25  to  May  5  or  about  ten  days  after  "Second  Plant- 
ing." For  succession,  peas,  lettuce  and  radishes  may  be  now 
planted.  Beds  may  be  by  "Sandwich"  System,  or  by  the  trench 
method. 

PARSLEY.     Varieties:  Moss  Curled. 
Quantity  of  Seed:  One  packet. 

Distances:  Apart  in  rows,  four  inches:  rows  apart,  one  foot. 
Depth:  Half  an  inch. 

Seed  should  be  sprouted  by  use  of  wet  burlap  cloths. 
Germination  will  require  about  two  weeks'  time.  Plant  seed 
quickly  when  germ  first  shows. 

PEAS  FOB  SUCCESSION.     Varieties:  Gradus,  Telephone. 
Quantity  of  Seed:  Half  pint  of  each  variety. 

SPINACH.     Varieties:  Curled  Savoy,  Victoria. 

Quantity  of  seed:  Half  ounce  of  each  variety. 

Distances:   Apart  in  rows,  three  inches.     Rows  apart,  one 

foot. 
Depth:  One  inch.     Sow  seeds  one  inch  apart:  thin  when  up. 

LETTUCE  FOB  SUCCESSION.     See  Lettuce  in  "First  Planting." 

POTATOES.     Varieties:  E.  Ohio,  Irish  Cobbler. 

Quantity  of  Seed:  One-fourth  peck  of  each  variety. 

Distances:  Apart  in  rows,  one  foot:  rows  apart,  two  feet. 

Depth:  Four  inches.  Select  medium  sized  potatoes  for  seed. 
Cut  in  halves  lengthwise.  Start  these  in  sand  in  shallow 
boxes,  by  placing  in  cellar  or  moderately  warm  room 
four  weeks  before  planting.  Sprouts  should  be  about 
one  inch  above  ground  when  planted  out.  By  this 
method  two  weeks'  time  is  gained. 

SUGAB  COBN.     Varieties:  Golden  Bantam,  Early  Cory. 
Quantity  of  Seed:  One  packet  of  each  variety. 
Distances:  Apart  in  rows,  two  inches:  rows  apart,  two  feet. 
Depth:  Two  inches.     When  three  inches  high  thin  to  eight 
inches  apart  in  row.     The  potatoes  are  usually  dug  and 
out  of  way  in  time  for  corn  to  mature. 


I 
44  THE  GAEDENETTE 


..X X..    Egg  Plant   ..X X. 

..X X..   Egg  Plant   ..X X. 

..X X..    Egg  Plant   ..X X. 

..0 O Okra  0 0. 

..O O Okra  O 0. 

..0 O Okra   O 0. 

Bush  Tender  Pod  Beans 

Bush  Tender  Pod  Beans 

.  Bush  Tender  Pod  Beans  . 


Bush  Tender  Pod  Beans 


Bush  Tender  Pod  Beans 

. .  Bush  Lima  Beans  . . 

. .  Bush  Lima  Beans  . . 

. .  Bush  Lima  Beans  . . 

, .  Bush  Lima  Beans  . . 

.  Bush  Lima  Beans  . . 

,  Bush  Lima  Beans  . . 


6  feet. 


VEGETABLE  GAEDENING  45 

Use  either  "Sandwich"  or  "Trenching"  System. 

EGG  PLANT.    Varieties:  Black  Beauty,  Mammoth  Purple. 
Distances:  Eighteen  inches  each  way. 

Set  rather  deep  and  firm. 
Number  Plants:  One  dozen. 

OKRA.     Varieties:  White  Velvet,  Perkins  Mammoth. 
Quantity  of  Seed:  Half  ounce  each  variety. 
Distances:  Apart  in  rows,  four  inches:  rows  apart,  eighteen 

inches. 

Depth:  Two  inches. 
When  plants  are  three  inches  high,  thin  to  one  foot  apart. 

BEANS,  TENDER  POD  BUSH. 

Varieties:  Hardy  Wax,  Yellow  Pencil  Pod. 
Quantity  of  Seed:  Half  pint  each  variety. 
Distances:  Apart  in  rows,  three  inches:  rows  apart,  eighteen 

inches. 
Depth:  Two  inches. 

LIMA  BEANS,  BUSH. 

Varieties:  Burpee's  Impd.,  Fordhook. 

Quantity  of  Seed:  Half  pint  of  each  variety. 

Distances:  Apart  in  rows,  two  inches:  rows  apart,  eighteen 

inches. 
Depth:  One  and  one-half  inches. 

If  Lima  beans  are  planted  with  the  eye  downward  they 

will   germinate    sooner.     The   beans    should   be    pressed 

firmly  in  place  before  covering. 


46  THE  GAEDENETTE 


Peas    

..T Peas    T T. 

Radish 

Radish 

..T..  Peas    .  ..T..  ..T. 


Beets    

..T Beets    T T. 

Peas 

Peas 

..T Lettuce    T , T. 

Lettuce    

Peas 

..T Peas    T T. 

Lettuce    

Lettuce    

..T Peas    T T. 

Peas 

Onions 

..T Onions T T. 

Onions 

Onions 

..T Onions T T. 

Onions 

.........  Onions 

.  .T Onions T T. 

Onions 

Onions 

Onions 

Onions 

..T Onions T T. 

6  feet. 


VEGETABLE  GARDENING  47 

Date:  May  10  to  25. 

Varieties:  Stone,  E.  June,  Ponderosa,  Ear  liana.  Other  good  va- 
rieties Acme,  Globe,  Favorite,  Bonny  Best.  It  is  usually 
cheaper  to  buy  plants  from  a  reliable  seedsman,  where  only 
a  few  dozen  are  needed.  Plants  should  be  stocky,  and  six 
to  ten  inches  high. 

Number  of  Plants:  To  fill  bed  of  "First  Planting"  will  require 
twenty-seven  plants — see  Plat  on  preceding  page.  Order 
three  dozen  plants,  and  heel  out  the  surplus  for  filling  va- 
cancies. 

Water  and  shade  for  a  few  days.  If  frosts  threaten,  bend  the 
plants  down  gently  and  cover  with  earth  three  inches  deep.  Un- 
cover when  danger  of  frost  is  over. 

If  plants  are  very  long  and  slender,  dig  a  trench  three  inches 
deep  in  any  direction  from  where  plant  is  to  stand.  Plant  roots 
in  trench,  then  bend  down  the  stalk  and  cover  with  soil  so  that 
four  inches  of  the  top  will  come  to  the  point  where  plant  is  to 
stand.  It  will  take  root  where  covered,  and  thus  gain  increased 
vigor. 

When  "First  Planting"  of  vegetables  are  matured,  remove  and 
rake  the  soil  mellow. 

When  plants  are  a  foot  high,  set  a  stake  six  feet  high,  firmly 
by  each  plant,  and  as  plant  grows  tie  loosely  to  stake.  Prune  by 
removing  slender,  weak  shoots.  When  plant  reaches  top  of  stake, 
top  by  pinching  out  terminal  bud.  Tomato  plants  are  set  where 
indicated  by  T  in  plan,  "First  Planting"  is  allowed  to  remain 
until  matured. 


SPECIAL  CULTURAL  DIRECTIONS 

ASPARAGUS 

TO  grow  asparagus  successfully,  the  soil  needs 
to  be  rich,  light  and  deep. 

Spade  the  bed  as  directed  in  the  "  Modified 
Sandwich"  bed,  only  the  soil  should  be  stirred  to 
a  depth  of  full  eighteen  inches.  Use  old,  well 
rotted  manure,  with  an  equal  amount  of  sand. 

Plant  in  rows  lengthwise,  and  make  three  rows 
on  a  six-foot  bed :  one  in  the  middle,  and  one  on 
each  side,  a  foot  from  the  edge. 

The  plants  may  be  grown  from  seed,  but  if  two- 
year-old  plants  are  used,  there  will  be  a  saving  of 
at  least  two  years'  time. 

Most  of  nursery  men  and  seedsmen  sell  aspara- 
gus plants.  Care  must  be  taken  that  the  roots  do 
not  become  dry,  or  they  are  almost  sure  to  die. 

Procure  plants  about  April  20,  and  plant  quickly. 
Set  one  foot  apart  in  row,  and  not  less  than  eight 
inches  deep,  the  tops  or  crowns  about  six  inches 
below  the  surface. 

Two  dozen  plants  will  supply  a  family.  These 
will  occupy  a  bed  six  by  eight  feet,  and  will  con- 
tinue to  produce  for  many  years  without  replant- 
ing, but  will  need  a  generous  top  dressing  of  rich 
manure  each  fall  after  frosts.  Also  sow  a  pint  of 
common  salt,  in  autumn,  to  a  bed  of  this  size.  No 
part  of  the  garden  is  more  profitable  than  the  as- 
paragus bed. 

48 


GRADUS   PEAS  AND  EARLY  CABBAGE. 


VEGETABLE  GAEDENING  49 

Conover's  Colossal,  and  Mammoth  White  are 
good  varieties. 

BEANS,   DWAEF   OR  BUSH — TENDER  PODS 

These  succeed  admirably  on  Sandwich  Beds. 
All  beans  are  very  tender  and  should  not  be 
planted  until  the  ground  becomes  warm.  Begin 
planting  early  in  May,  and  for  succession  plant 
every  two  weeks  until  middle  of  August.  Plant  in 
rows  eighteen  inches  apart,  and  three  inches  in 
the  row.  Cover  two  inches  deep. 

Livingston's  Hardy  Wax,  and  WardwelPs  Wax 
are  good  varieties.  One  quart  will  plant  100  feet 
of  row. 

For  green  pods,  Strmgless  Eefugee  is  excel- 
lent. 

BEANS,  POLE  OR  CLIMBING TENDER  PODS 

These  should  be  planted  about  two  weeks  later 
than  bush  beans.  Form  hills  three  feet  apart  east 
and  west,  by  four  feet,  north  and  south.  Plant 
four  beans  in  a  hill,  cover  two  inches  deep,  leaving 
space  in  center  of  hill  for  pole.  Or  plant  two 
grains  of  sugar  corn  in  each  hill  to  support  the 
vines. 

One  quart  will  plant  100  hills. 

Kentucky  Wonder  for  early;  Old  Homestead  for 
main  crop. 

LIMA  BUSH 

These  are  grown  same  as  other  bush  beans,  but 
should  be  planted  ten  days  later.  Plant  in  rows 
two  feet  apart,  and  three  inches  in  the  row.  Press 
the  seed  into  the  ground  with  the  eye  downward, 


50  THE  GAKDENETTE 

and  cover  two  inches  deep.    Varieties,  Fordhook, 
and  Burpee's  Improved. 

LIMA  BEANS — POLE  OB  CLIMBING 

Plant  one  week  later  than  other  pole  beans,  in 
hills  three  by  four  feet  apart,  and  five  beans  to  the 
hill.  Press  seed  in  soil,  eye  downward,  and  cover 
two  inches.  Set  poles  eight  feet  long,  firmly,  one 
to  each  hill,  and  bring  upper  ends  of  four  together, 
tent  fashion,  and  tie  firmly.  If  poles  cannot  be 
had,  slats  will  answer. 

Climbing  Limas  are  more  productive  than  bush, 
and  are  less  liable  to  spoil  in  wet  weather.  Corn 
stalks  will  not  support  the  great  weight  of  climb- 
ing Limas. 

Climbing  Limas  require  a  long  season  to  mature, 
so  do  not  defer  planting  too  long  or  they  will  likely 
be  caught  by  early  frosts.  Large  White,  and 
Dreer's  Improved  are  good  varieties.  One  quart 
will  plant  seventy-five  hills. 

BEETS 

Beets  are  semi-hardy,  and  may  safely  be  planted 
quite  early.  The  seed  should  be  sprouted,  but 
plant  when  the  germ  first  shows.  Plant  in  rows 
one  foot  apart  and  four  inches  in  the  row.  They 
will  usually  need  thinning,  as  a  single  seed  often 
produces  several  plants.  When  thinning  cut  off 
half  of  the  tops,  and  transplant  in  vacancies  or 
new  rows.  These  will  mature  a  few  days  later. 

For  late  pickling,  plant  seed  about  middle  of 
May. 

One  ounce  of  seed  will  plant  seventy-five  feet  of 
row. 


VEGETABLE  GARDENING  51 

Early  Blood  Turnip,  and  Early  Bassano  are 
good  varieties. 

CABBAGE — EARLY 

These  do  wonderfully  well  on  plain  Sandwich 
Beds  or  on  the  " Modified"  Bed. 

For  extra  early  plants,  sow  seed  in  the  Incubator 
flats  in  March,  in  rows  four  inches  apart  and  two 
inches  in  the  row,  sprouting  the  seed  first. 

If  the  plants  grow  spindling,  sift  with  hand  fine 
sand  between  rows,  until  up  to  the  seed,  or  primary 
leaves.  This  will  insure  fine  stocky  plants. 
Transplant  to  open  ground  as  soon  as  ground  is 
in  good  order,  and  when  plants  are  five  or  six 
inches  high.  Set  very  deep,  but  do  not  cover  the 
crown.  If  there  comes  severe  cold  weather,  pro- 
tect with  several  thicknesses  of  newspaper.  They 
will  withstand  considerable  cold.  For  cabbage 
worm  use  Hellebore.  One  ounce  of  seed  produces 
about  2000  plants. 

Early  Jersey  Wakefield,  and  Glory  of  Enk- 
housen  are  excellent  varieties.  Plant  in  rows 
eighteen  inches  apart  each  way. 

CABBAGE — LATE 

Sow  seed  about  May  20  on  Sandwich  Beds  in 
open  ground.  Sprout  the  seed,  water  well  with 
hose,  and  shade  with  screens  for  several  days,  but 
not  too  long  or  the  plants  will  be  spindling.  For 
cabbage  fly  dust  with  powdered  tobacco  leaves, 
wood  ashes,  or  slaked  lime  before  the  plants  are 
destroyed.  Transplant  about  June  15  to  rows 
two  feet  apart  and  eighteen  inches  in  row.  Set 


52  THE  GAEDENETTE 

deep  and  when  well  established  hill  up  around  the 
plant  slightly. 

American  Savoy,  and  Late  Flat  Dutch  are  good 
varieties. 

CARROT EARLY 

Long1  rooted  plants  do  best  on  the  Modified  Bed. 
Sow  seed  where  they  are  to  grow,  early  in  spring, 
in  rows  eighteen  inches  apart,  and  four  inches  in 
row.  Cover  half  an  inch  deep.  One  ounce  will 
sow  100  feet  of  row. 

Early  Danvers,  and  Chantenay  are  good  varie- 
ties. Sprout  the  seed  before  planting. 

For  late  carrots  sow  seed  in  May  or  first  half  of 
June. 

CAULIFLOWER 

Cauliflower  is,  in  its  nature,  very  similar  to  cab- 
bage, and  can  easily  be  grown  to  perfection  on 
Sandwich  Beds.  Sow  seeds  in  flats  in  Incubator 
in  February  or  March  after  sprouting  the  seeds. 
Plant  in  rows  three  inches  apart  and  two  inches  in 
row.  Cover  one-fourth  inch.  Treat  like  cabbage 
plants.  Transplant  to  open  ground  April  1  to  15, 
and  set  rather  deep,  in  rows  eighteen  inches  apart 
both  ways.  Early  Snowball  seems  to  be  the 
favorite  variety,  and  is  really  one  of  the  very 
best. 

Seed  is  usually  high  in  price.  One-fourth  of  an 
ounce  will  produce  500  plants. 

For  late  crops  sow  seed  about  middle  of  May 
in  rich  soil,  or  on  Sandwich  Bed,  and  transplant 
like  late  cabbage  when  plants  are  of  suitable 
size,  If  weather  is  very  warm^  shade  for  a  few 


VEGETABLE  GAEDENING  53 

days  till  plants  are  established.  Cauliflower,  like 
cabbage,  needs  frequent  watering.  Use  same  va- 
riety for  late  crop. 

CELERY 

This  desirable  vegetable  is  somewhat  difficult 
and  troublesome  to  grow  by  old  methods.  By  the 
plan  here  outlined,  gratifying  success  is,  rela- 
tively, easy  of  achievement.  Indeed  the  Sandwich 
Beds  are  perfectly  ideal  for  celery  growing. 

The  author  has  been  able  to  produce,  with  uni- 
formity, from  1000  to  1500  choice  heads  of  fancy, 
high  flavored  celery  for  each  square  rod  of  Sand- 
wich Bed. 

Sow  seed  in  March  or  first  of  April,  in  flats, 
after  first  sprouting  the  seeds,  which  are  very 
small  and  usually  germinate  very  slowly.  In  flats 
with  the  Incubator  much  time  is  gained.  Sow  in 
rows  three  inches  apart,  and  about  one  quarter  of 
an  inch  apart  in  rows.  As  many  seeds  will  fail  to 
germinate  a  little  thicker  sowing  will  insure  a  good 
stand.  When  plants  are  two  inches  high,  pull  up 
and  transplant  in  flats,  two  inches  apart,  in  rows 
which  are  three  inches  apart.  Water  well,  and 
shade  for  a  few  days. 

About  first  to  middle  of  May,  or  any  time  even 
a  month  later,  plant  in  open  ground  in  Sandwich 
Beds,  setting  the  plants  exactly  five  inches  each 
way. 

In  transplanting  be  careful  to  have  the  plants  of 
uniform  size,  or  the  smaller  and  weaker  ones  will 
be  crowded  out  by  their  more  sturdy  neighbors. 
Trim  off  at  least  one-third  of  roots  and  tops,  and 
dip  roots  in  "  puddle "  before  setting. 


54  THE  GAKDENETTE 

" Puddle"  is  a  thin  mixture  of  clay  and  water, 
and  should  be  about  the  consistency  of  cream. 

Press  soil  very  firmly  about  roots,  then  water 
freely,  and  shade  with  muslin  screens  for  a  few 
days.  If  any  plants  fail  to  grow,  put  in  fresh  ones, 
so  there  are  no  vacancies. 

Water  frequently  and  somewhat  copiously. 
This  is  best  done  in  the  evening. 

To  stimulate  growth,  apply  in  dry  state,  nitrate 
of  soda,  by  sifting  the  pulverized  crystals,  with  the 
hand,  between  the  rows,  but  be  careful  to  keep  it 
off  the  foliage.  Use  eight  heaping  teaspoonfuls 
to  100  plants,  and  repeat  about  twice,  at  intervals 
of  ten  days. 

When  plants  are  eight  to  ten  inches  high,  do 
most  of  the  watering  by  permitting  the  hose  to  lie 
on  the  ground  between  rows,  as  too  much  water  on 
the  foliage  may  induce  rust. 

In  about  six  weeks  from  last  transplanting, 
blanching  may  begin. 

Take  cheap,  one-ply  roofing  felt,  such  as  Flint- 
kote,  or  similar  material,  and  cut  in  pieces  sixteen 
inches  by  twelve  inches.  Bend  in  cylinders  which 
should  be  about  five  inches  in  diameter,  and  twelve 
inches  long.  With  small  tacks  fasten  the  edges 
together,  lapping  one  inch.  The  tacks  will  hold 
1  better  if  there  is  an  inch  strip  of  the  same  material 
on  the  inside  of  the  cylinder,  where  the  lap  is 
tacked.  Use  a  two-foot  piece  of  two-inch  gas  pipe 
as  an  anvil,  on  which  to  nail,  fastening  one  end 
firmly  in  a  vice.  Now  first  lay  the  strip  on  the 
gas  pipe,  then  place  the  lap  directly  over  this 
strip,  the  cylinder  encircling  the  pipe,  and  drive 
tacks  through  the  three  thicknesses,  and  clinch 


VEGETABLE  GABDENING  55 

on  gas  pipe.  Use  about  six  tacks  to  each  cylin- 
der. 

Next  have  your  tinner  make  an  "Enf older"  of 
light,  galvanized  sheet  iron,  No.  29,  as  follows : 

Bend  two  strips  of  sheet-iron  in  form  of  half 
cylinders,  so  that  when  placed  with  concave  "sides 
towards  each  other  they  will  form  a  complete  cylin- 
der. The  proper  size  of  strips  is  five  and  one 
quarter  inches  wide,  and  eighteen  inches  long. 
These  will  form  a  tube  in  two  parts,  three  and  one- 
half  inches  in  diameter.  Attach  light  hinges  by 
riveting  them  inside  of  the  half  tubes,  in  such  way 
that  the  two  halves  can  be  easily  opened  or  closed. 

For  use,  gather  the  leaves  and  stems  of  the 
celery  in  left  hand,  then  with  open  cylinder  in 
right  hand,  press  the  open  face  close  against  the 
plant,  and  as  it  is  closed  encircle  the  plant.  Now 
drop  the  blanching  tube  over  enfolding  cylinder 
and  all,  and  then  withdraw  the  enfolding  cylinder 
— and  the  plant  is  snugly  placed  within  the  blanch- 
ing cylinder. 

It  is  easily  and  quickly  done. 

The  blanching  will  usually  require  about  eight 
to  twelve  days,  when  the  celery  is  ready  for  the 
table,  or  it  may  be  allowed  to  remain  in  the  tubes 
until  wanted. 

If  weather  is  hot  when  blanching,  place  muslin 
screens,  supported  by  stakes,  about  three  feet 
above  the  ground,  where  blanchers  are  being  used ; 
otherwise  sometimes  there  will  be  sun-scald. 

After  putting  on  blanching  tubes,  water  only  by 
allowing  the  nozzle  of  hose  to  lie  on  the  ground. 
Do  not  spray  over  the  celery  while  in  tubes,  though 
rain  will  do  no  harm. 


56  THE  GAEDENETTE 

Common  drain  tile  will  answer  for  tubing,  but 
they  are  very  heavy,  costly,  and  liable  to  breakage. 

When  tubes  are  made  of  roofing  they  may  be 
made  in  two  sections,  telescoping  together.  The 
advantages  of  this  form,  however,  does  not  pay 
for  extra  cost  and  trouble. 

About  twenty-four  tubes,  or  even  a  less  number, 
will  answer  all  purposes,  as  they  are  moved  fur- 
ther along,  and  used  again  and  again,  as  celery  is 
cut  for  use. 

The  same  results  may  be  secured  by  simply 
wrapping  each  plant  separately  with  sheets  of 
Flintkote  or  similar  material.  The  sheets  should 
encircle  the  plant  and  lap  over  two  inches,  being 
held  in  place  by  two  wire  rings,  four  or  five  inches 
in  diameter.  These  are  dropped  over  the  wrap- 
pers and  are  held  in  place  by  the  "  spring' '  of  the 
material. 

Light  frosts  do  not  hurt  celery,  but  hard  freez- 
ing will  destroy  it.  . 

It  may  be  removed  to  cellar,  if  taken  up  with 
some  soil  adhering,  and  packed,  not  too  closely,  in 
upright  position,  in  boxes,  but  do  not  wet  the  foli- 
age or  stems  after  removal,  or  they  will  surely  rot. 

If  only  a  few  hundred  heads  are  needed,  it  is 
usually  cheaper  to  buy  the  plants  of  a  reliable 
dealer,  than  to  grow  them  yourself.  Order  plants 
about  June  10.  It  is  desirable  to  have  a  few  extra 
plants  to  fill  vacancies. 

Golden  Self  Blanching  is  a  very  satisfactory  va- 
riety. A  single  packet  of  seeds  will  produce  a  sur- 
prising number  of  plants. 

Celery  is  usually  grown  as  second  crop,  after 
peas,  lettuce,  radishes,  onion  sets,  when  used 


VEGETABLE  GARDENING  57 

green,  etc.  It  may  even  follow  early  potatoes,  or 
early  sugar  corn,  but  should  not  be  transplanted 
later  than  July  1. 

Fine,  fresh,  crisp  celery  is  certainly  a  luxury, 
and  well  worth  the  trouble  of  growing. 

For  celery  rust  spray  with  Bordeaux  Mixture. 
Eepeat  at  intervals  of  ten  days. 

EGG  PLANTS 

Sprout  the  seed  and  plant  in  flats  in  March. 
Transplant  to  open  ground  last  of  May,  setting 
plants  pretty  deep  and  firm.  When  well  estab- 
lished hill  up  earth  around  the  plants  and  press 
firm.  Pick  off  the  potato  beetles  by  hand,  or  dust 
the  plants  with  white  hellebore  or  Paris  Green. 

One  dozen  plants  will  supply  a  family.  Water 
freely  for  best  results. 

Varieties :    Black  Beauty,  Mammoth  Purple. 

ENDIVE 

Sow  seed  after  sprouting,  about  middle  of  April, 
and  when  of  sufficient  size,  transplant  to  rows 
twelve  inches  apart  each  way. 

It  may  be  blanched  like  celery  in  tubes,  but  re- 
quires somewhat  larger  tubes. 

Nothing  can  be  finer  than  endive  when  grown  on 
Sandwich  Beds,  and  blanched  in  this  way. 

If  blanching  is  done  in  very  hot  weather,  shade 
with  muslin  screens  on  stakes  two  feet  high. 

White  Curled,  and  Green  Curled  are  fine  varie- 
ties. 

For  succession  make  three  sowings  a  month 
apart. 


58  THE  GAEDENETTE 

KOHL   EABI 

Sow  seed  in  March  in  flats,  after  sprouting. 
Transplant  in  rows  ten  inches  apart  each  way,  as 
soon  as  plants  are  of  suitable  size. 

They  are  much  like  cabbage  in  their  nature,  and 
are  managed  in  similar  manner. 

They  must  be  used  before  full  grown,  as  they 
will  become  tough  with  age. 

Early  White  Vienna  is  a  good  variety. 

CUCUMBERS 

For  early  slicing,  the  seeds  should  first  be 
sprouted  and  then  planted  in  strawberry  baskets 
— about  ten  seeds  in  each  basket.  This  may  be 
done  as  early  as  April  1.  Then  place  them  in  an 
incubator  or  other  warm  place  till  the  plants  form 
the  fourth  leaf.  Then  remove  to  a  mild  hot  bed, 
cold  frame  or  cold  pit;  and  as  soon  as  warm 
weather  approaches,  harden  off  gradually.  When 
settled  warm  weather  is  assured,  say  about  the 
middle  of  May  or  a  little  later,  set  the  plants, 
basket  and  all,  in  post  hole  hills,  five  by  six  feet 
apart.  The  hills  should  be  protected  with  boost- 
ers until  the  plants  are  well  established.  Then 
remove  caps  for  a  few  days  until  the  plants  are 
hardened  and  finally  remove  all  protection. 
Sometimes  it  is  necessary  to  retain  the  boosters 
as  a  protection  against  the  striped  beetle.  In 
such  cases  two  or  three  mothballs  and  a  handful 
of  tobacco  leaves  placed  inside  the  booster  will 
shoo  him  off.  If  the  weather  is  warm,  place  a 
screen  wire  cap  on  the  top  instead  of  the  regular 
cap.  This  keeps  off  the  beetle  and  gives  ventila- 
tion. 


VEGETABLE  GARDENING  59 

For  the  "wilt"  pour  a  peck  of  sandy  compost 
directly  on  the  hill  when  vines  are  about  two  feet 
long,  thus  protecting  the  stems  or  vines  near  the 
roots  from  the  burning  rays  of  the  hot  sun,  which 
doubtless  cause  this  trouble.  This  must  be  done 
early.  The  "wilt"  may  be  prevented,  but  it  can- 
not be  cured.  Give  the  same  treatment  to  melons 
and  squashes.  For  growing  pickling  cucumbers, 
plant  seeds  from  middle  of  June  to  August  1. 
About  July  15  gives,  perhaps,  the  best  results. 

CELEKY-CABBAGE 

This  vegetable,  recently  introduced  from  China, 
resembles  in  flavor  and  odor  our  common  cab- 
bage. In  appearance,  it  closely  resembles  well- 
grown  Cos  lettuce,  while  the  stems  look  like  celery. 

It  is  an  annual  and  requires  cool  weather  to 
bring  it  to  perfection.  If  planted  in  early  spring, 
it  soon  sends  up  seed  stems  and  ripens  seeds  which 
look  like  cabbage  seed,  only  smaller. 

It  should  be  sown  about  the  middle  of  August, 
in  seed  beds,  and  when  three  inches  high,  trans- 
planted in  rows  two  feet  apart  and  eighteen  inches 
apart  in  the  row.  It  requires  rich  soil  and  fre- 
quent watering.  The  heads  may  be  loosely  tied, 
somewhat  like  endive,  when  it  will  blanch  beauti- 
fully. It  is  served  same  as  boiled  cabbage.  It  is 
also  fine  when  prepared  as  cole  slaw,  or  as  a  salad 
like  lettuce.  It  is  certainly  a  valuable  addition 
to  our  collection  of  edible  garden  vegetables.  It 
is  very  subject  to  attacks  of  green  aphis.  To- 
bacco tea,  not  too  strong,  if  applied  frequently, 
will  hold  the  enemy  in  check. 


60  THE  GABDENETTE 

LETTUCE 

Lettuce  is  of  two  kinds;  those  which  grow 
loosely,  and  those  which  form  heads. 

For  early,  sow  seeds  in  flats  in  March,  and  keep 
in  Incubator  until  about  two  inches  high,  when 
they  may  be  transplanted  to  open  Sandwich  Beds, 
setting  plants  six  inches  apart  each  way.  Or  the 
seed  may  be  sown  out  of  doors  at  time  of  "  first 
planting/'  Eows  six  inches  apart,  and  not 
closer  than  two  inches  in  the  row. 

For  early  use,  cut  all  of  alternate  rows.  This 
will  give  remainder  plenty  of  room. 

In  hot  days  shade  with  muslin  screens  raised 
one  foot  above  top  of  plants. 

For  succession,  sow  every  three  weeks  until 
middle  of  July.  The  later  sowings  must  be  shaded 
to  secure  fine,  crisp  quality. 

Loose  varieties:  Grand  Eapids,  Black  Seeded 
Simpson. 

Head  varieties :    Big  Boston,  Crisp-as-Ice. 

Trianon  Cos,  or  celery  lettuce,  may  be  blanched 
like  celery,  when  it  is  very  fine. 

All  kinds  are  easily  transplanted. 

MELON — WATER 
(For  Musk  Melon,  see  "Cantaloupes"  in  "Post  Hole  Hills.") 

Water  melons  should  receive  precisely  the  same 
treatment  as  musk  melons,  except  that  lime  and 
sulphur  are  not  needed.  In  preparing  Post  Hole 
hills  do  not  forget  that  water  melons  delight  in 
plenty  of  sand. 

Varieties:  Water  melons,  Georgia  Battle- 
Snake,  and  Sweetheart.  Musk  melons,  Ohio 
Sugar,  Tip  Top,  Miller's  Cream. 


VEGETABLE  GABDENING  61 

OKEA,  OR  GUMBO 

Plant  seeds  about  middle  of  May,  in  rows  eight- 
een inches  apart,  and  four  inches  in  row.  When 
plants  are  three  inches  high,  thin  to  one  foot  apart. 

White  Velvet  is  an  excellent  variety. 

The  pods  must  be  used  when  small,  while  tender. 

For  succession  make  two  plantings,  three  weeks 
apart. 

ONION  SETS 

Secure  "sets"  or  bulblets  about  first  of  March, 
and  for  extra  early  green  " pulls,"  start  the  bulbs 
in  a  box  of  sand.  Put  in  a  layer  of  sand,  then  a 
layer  of  bulbs,  and  cover  with  sand.  Kept  in  a 
rather  cool,  dark  place,  they  will  soon  form  root- 
lets, when  they  are  ready  to  plant.  Eows  may 
be  six  inches  apart.  Set  the  bulbs,  right  end  up, 
or  they  will  be  crooked,  and  not  more  than  two 
inches  apart  in  rows.  Plant  them  at  least  two  or 
three  inches  below  the  surface. 

When  large  enough  to  pull,  remove  two,  and 
leave  one,  and  remove  all  of  alternate  rows :  the  re- 
mainder may  be  allowed  to  mature  for  winter 
use. 

Select  bulbs  for  planting  about  size  of  end  of 
small  finger.  If  much  smaller  they  are  lacking  in 
vigor,  and  are  tedious  to  plant.  If  much  larger 
they  are  apt  to  throw  up  seed  stems. 

Bulbs  are  white,  red,  and  yellow.  The  white 
are  generally  preferred. 

Egyptian,  or  winter  onions,  are  set  in  Septem- 
ber, when  they  will  furnish  green  " pulls"  very 
early  the  following  spring.  They  are  perfectly 
hardy, 


62  THE  GAEDENETTE 

POTATOES 

Potatoes  will  do  moderately  well  under  almost 
any  conditions,  but  for  very  best  results,  both  in 
quality  and  yield,  use  the  Modified  Sandwich 
Bed.  " 

I  find  it  a  very  great  advantage  to  start  the 
seed  potatoes  before  planting,  by  first  cutting  the 
potatoes  in  halves,  and  covering  with  sand  or 
compost  in  a  flat,  placing  them  in  a  moderately 
warm  room,  preferably  in  the  light,  and  thus  per- 
mitting them  to  form  roots,  and  start  sprouts 
from  the  eyes,  to  a  length  of  about  half  an  inch 
before  planting. 

Do  not  water  while  thus  starting  growth.  The 
object  is  to  cause  the  potatoes  to  wither  and  make 
only  short,  stubby  growths.  If  dampened  and 
kept  in  dark  the  growths  will  be  slender,  soft,  and 
white,  while  best  results  are  secured  by  encour- 
aging rather  stunted  growth,  stocky,  and  of  dark, 
deep  color. 

When  thus  treated  they  make  a  very  vigorous 
growth  and  may  be  planted  about  middle  of 
April  or  even  later,  and  thus  avoid  having  the 
tops  frosted,  as  often  happens  if  planted  very 
early.  Frosted  tops  always  lessen  the  yield. 

This  way  of  starting  the  seed  insures  earliness 
in  any  event,  and  helps  to  avoid  severe  frosts. 

At  least  two  weeks  are  gained  by  this  method. 
Cut  and  sprout  seed  about  March  25  to  April  1. 
Plant  out  of  doors  April  12  to  20. 

Plant  one  piece  in  a  hill,  about  twelve  inches 
apart  each  way.  Cover  fully  four  inches  deep, 
and  be  careful  not  to  break  off  sprouts  or  roots. 


VEGETABLE  GAEDENING  63 

Select  medium  sized  potatoes.  One  peck  will 
plant  100  hills. 

Early  Ohio  is  a  very  satisfactory  variety. 
After  planting  is  completed,  cover  the  entire  bed 
with  stable  litter,  at  least  three  inches  deep. 

When  plants  appear,  pull  out  weaker  ones, 
leaving  but  two  stems  to  the  hill.  This  thinning 
is  absolutely  necessary  to  complete  success. 

Treated  as  above  described,  the  author  has 
grown,  on  a  space  six  by  twenty  feet,  seven  meas- 
ured pecks  of  choice  potatoes. 

PEAS 

The  common  belief  that  peas  will  do  best  on 
thin,  poor  soil,  is  not  correct.  They  yield  won- 
derfully well  on  Sandwich  Beds,  for  early  varie- 
ties, and  on  the  Modified  Sandwich  Beds  for  late. 

It  pays  to  sprout  the  seed  before  planting:  the 
"stand"  is  more  even,  and  several  days'  time  is 
gained. 

Early  sowings  should  be  covered  about  one 
inch,  but  later  sowings  may  be  covered  two  inches. 

Plant  in  rows  one  foot  apart  and  quite  thickly 
in  the  row,  say  one  seed  to  two  inches,  for  not  all 
of  the  seed  will  grow. 

After  planting  two  rows,  twelve  inches  apart, 
it  is  best  to  leave  a  space  of  three  feet,  then  two 
rows  more,  and  so  on.  The  vacant  space  may  be 
sown  in  radishes,  lettuce,  beets,  or  filled  with 
onion  sets. 

For  very  early,  choose  Early  Alaska,  which  is 
a  smooth  variety.  Little  Gem  is  a  dwarf,  wrin- 
kled variety,  and  is  also  early.  These  require 
no  brush.  Gradus  is  a  splendid  variety,  and  is 


64  THE  GAEDENETTE 

second  early.  Telephone  is  fine  for  main  crop, 
The  last  two  require  brush  about  two  feet  high, 
one  to  each  foot  of  row.  For  succession  plant 
every  three  weeks  but  not  later  than  middle  of 
June.  Sometimes  later  planting  will  do  well,  but 
not  often. 

PAESLEY 

Seeds  of  this  plant  germinate  very  slowly. 

Sprout,  and  sow  in  flats,  and  keep  in  warm  In- 
cubator until  plants  come  up.  This  may  be  done 
in  March  or  April. 

Transplant  in  rows  one  foot  apart,  and  four 
inches  apart  in  row. 

Moss  Curled  is  an  excellent  variety. 

PAKSNIPS 

Sow  on  "  Modified "  Sandwich  Beds  as  early  in 
spring  as  weather  will  permit,  first  sprouting  the 
seed.  They  germinate  very  slowly. 

Plant  seeds  in  rows  eighteen  inches  apart :  four 
inches  apart  in  row.  Cover  half  an  inch  deep. 

They  improve  by  frost,  and  may  be  left  in 
ground  where  grown  until  spring. 

For  winter  use  take  up  in  late  fall,  and  store 
in  sand  in  boxes  in  cellar. 

Hollow  Crown  is  an  excellent  variety. 

PEPPERS 

Plant  seeds  in  flats  and  place  in  Incubator  in 
March  or  April.  Transplant  last  of  May  or  first 
of  June,  two  and  one-half  feet  apart  each  way. 

Chinese  Giant  and  Ruby  King  are  good  varie- 
ties. 


PICKLER  ONIONS. 


EARLY  OHIO  POTATOES. 


VEGETABLE  GARDENING  65 

PUMPKIN 

Same  treatment  as  water  melon.  For  squash 
bug,  dust  vines  with  powdered  tobacco  leaves. 

Winter  Luxury  is  a  good  variety. 

For  " Jumbo"  pumpkins,  try  True  Pot  Iron, 
often  of  gigantic  size,  weighing  as  much  as  200 
pounds. 

If  extra  large  size  is  wanted,  pinch  off  all  but 
one  specimen,  and  give  occasional  watering.  If 
rich  earth  is  placed  on  the  vines  in  several  places, 
roots  will  form,  and  give  the  plant  increased 
vigor. 

GEOWING  PICKLEE   ONIONS   AND   SETS 

There  is  an  increasing  demand  for  small  white 
onions  which  are  largely  used  in  making  mixed 
pickles  and  for  other  flavoring  and  canning  pur- 
poses. These  little  onions  are  easily  grown  and 
it  requires  a  very  small  area  only,  to  produce 
abundance  both  for  pickling  and  for  sets  for  the 
following  season.  In  sorting  out  the  crop,  the 
smaller  bulbs  are  used  for  sets,  and  the  larger 
for  pickling.  Only  white  varieties  are  grown  for 
this  purpose.  Indiana  Silver  Skin  has  been 
found  very  satisfactory  for  both  purposes. 

The  soil  must  be  light  and  very  rich.  If  sand 
is  used,  see  that  it  is  worked  into  the  soil  evenly. 
The  beds  should  be  about  six  feet  wide.  In  sow- 
ing, begin  at  one  end,  using  a  board  to  kneel 
upon,  make  a  shallow  furrow  crosswise  of  the 
bed,  five  inches  wide  and  one-half  inch  deep.  Into 
this  furrow,  sow  the  seed  very  thickly  and  evenly. 
Cover  with  sandy  soil  one-half  inch  deep  and 
press  firm  and  smooth.  Then  leave  a  space  eight 


66  THE  GAKDENETTE 

inches  wide  and  make  a  second  furrow,  and  so 
on  until  the  entire  bed  is  planted.  Pull  out  any 
weeds  that  come  up,  and  cultivate  the  eight-inch 
"middles*1  often.  Nitrate  of  soda,  one-fourth 
pound  to  the  square  rod,  may  be  used  to  stimu- 
late the  growth.  Apply  before  a  rain,  between 
the  rows,  as  it  must  not  touch  the  foliage.  When 
the  tops  of  the  onions  begin  to  die,  the  bulbs 
should  be  dug,  choosing  a  clear,  dry  day.  If  the 
weather  continues  dry  and  fair,  they  may  be  left 
on  the  ground  for  several  days,  after  which  they 
should  be  placed  in  shallow  trays  or  boxes  and 
stored  in  a  cool,  dry  place,  where  it  will  not  freeze. 
Dampness  will  cause  them  to  sprout. 

If  colored  varieties  are  preferred,  try  Eed 
Wethersfield,  Yellow  Globe,  and  Brown  Beauty. 
All  are  productive,  and  are  good  keepers.  If 
seed  of  Prizetaker  is  sown  in  flats,  after  sprouting, 
about  March  1,  and  transplanted  about  the  mid- 
dle of  April,  in  very  rich  soil,  extra  fine  bulbs  of 
largest  size  and  finest  quality  may  be  secured. 
Sow  seed  in  rows  three  inches  apart  and  about 
one-half  inch  in  rows.  Cover  one-half  inch,  and 
set  in  a  place  not  too  warm.  When  the  plants 
are  an  inch  high  they  may  be  stimulated  with  a 
little  nitrate  of  soda,  sown  between  the  rows. 
Transplant  out  of  doors,  setting  in  rows  sixteen 
inches  apart  and  six  inches  apart  in  the  row.  For 
extra  fine  specimens,  use  nitrate  of  soda  at  inter- 
vals of  four  weeks,  one-fourth  pound  to  the 
square  rod. 

PIMENTOES 

Pimentoes  are  a  variety  of  peppers  similar  to 
sweet  mangoes.  Up  to  this  time  the  best  have 


VEGETABLE  GAEDENING  67 

been  imported  from  Spain,  but  they  can  be  grown 
to  perfection  in  Ohio.  They  are  a  tropical  plant 
and  require  a  long  season  to  mature  them  prop- 
erly. It  is  best,  therefore,  to  start  them  in  an 
incubator,  greenhouse  or  hot-bed,  very  early. 
Sprout  the  seed  and  sow  in  flats  early  in  March 
or  the  latter  part  of  February.  They  thrive  best 
in  a  warm,  sunny  location  and  must  not  be  al- 
lowed to  remain  long  in  a  temperature  below  fifty 
degrees,  or  they  will  drop  their  leaves  and  thus 
suffer  a  severe  set-back.  They  are  liable  to  be 
attacked  by  the  green  aphis  or  plant  louse  and 
must  be  sprayed  frequently  with  tobacco  tea, 
made  rather  strong.  Care  must  be  taken  to  reach 
the  under  sides  of  the  leaves,  else  many  will  es- 
cape. When  the  plants  are  two  or  three  inches 
high,  they  should  be  transplanted  into  straw- 
berry baskets  or  three-inch  pots,  and  kept  in  a 
warm,  sunny  corner  until  settled  weather,  usu- 
ally about  the  last  of  May,  when  they  should  be 
planted  out  of  doors  in  rich  soil.  The  plant 
forcer  or  booster  will  greatly  assist  in  giving  the 
tender  plants  a  good  start,  though  they  must  not 
be  kept  on  too  long.  Do  not  plant  pimentoes 
near  mangoes  or  hot  peppers,  as  they  will  mix. 
The  famous  Pimento  Cheese  owes  its  excellence 
to  the  use  of  pimentoes  which  give  it  a  peculiar 
flavor.  The  plants  are  not  subject  to  attacks  of 
insects  after  they  are  set  in  the  open  ground. 
The  ripe  pimentoes  are  very  beautiful,  and  may 
be  canned  for  winter  use,  same  as  tomatoes.  The 
genuine  Spanish  are  somewhat  flat,  or  oblate  in 
form,  very  meaty,  and  have  small  seed  cavities. 


68  THE  GAKDENETTE 

EADISH 

The  radish  thrives  exceedingly  well  on  com- 
mon Sandwich  Beds.  There  should  be  plenty  of 
sand  in  top  layer  of  compost. 

Sprout  the  seeds,  and  sow  at  intervals  of  three 
weeks,  from  March  till  September. 

If  gypsum  or  land  plaster  is  sown  over  the  beds 
before  planting,  a  quart  to  the  square  yard,  the 
quality  will  be  greatly  improved.  Mix  by  rak- 
ing the  soil. 

For  winter  radishes,  sow  about  June  1st.  Suc- 
cession may  be  had  by  sowing  all  kinds  mixed, 
but  the  later  ones  will  lack  in  crispness. 

Sow  radishes  in  rows  twelve  inches  apart,  and 
not  closer  than  three  inches  in  the  row.  Cover 
on  inch  deep. 

Icicle,  Scarlet  Turnip,  and  Scarlet  White  Tip 
are  excellent  varieties. 

To  be  good,  radishes  should  grow  quickly,  and 
great  care  must  be  taken  to  avoid  thick  seeding. 

EHUBABB  OE  PIE  PLANT 

Make  a  post  hole  hill,  only  the  hole  should  be 
wider.  Procure  in  early  spring  divided  roots, 
and  set  one  in  each  hill,  and  pack  rich  soil  closely 
and  give  a  good  watering. 

Do  not  pull  stems  the  first  season.  Never  per- 
mit the  flowering  stems  to  remain,  or  the  plant 
will  be  greatly  weakened.  Pull  them  out  as  soon 
as  they  appear.  Give  additional  manure  each 
fall.  The  ground  cannot  be  made  too  rich. 

If  one-year  seeding  roots  can  be  had,  they  are 
much  better  than  divided  old  roots. 


VEGETABLE  GAEDENING  69 

EHUBARB  IN  WINTER 

If  rhubarb  roots  are  dug  about  the  first  of  De- 
cember, or  a  little  earlier,  left  exposed  to  freez- 
ing for  a  couple  of  weeks,  and  then  placed  in  suit- 
able boxes  and  removed  to  a  warm  cellar,  they 
will  push  up  beautiful  red  stems  that  are  splendid 
for  stews  or  pies.  The  clumps  must  be  at  least 
three  years  old,  and  they  must  be  allowed  to 
freeze  hard  before  they  are  put  in  the  cellar.  If 
the  clumps  are  too  large  for  handling,  they  may 
be  divided  with  a  sharp  spade,  but  divisions 
should  not  be  made  too  small.  Soil,  sand,  or  com- 
post should  be  packed  around  the  roots,  and  the 
box  should  be  deep  enough  to  hold  compost  suf- 
ficient to  cover  all  parts  of  the  plant.  Water 
moderately,  but  frequently.  Light  is  not  essen- 
tial, as  they  seem  to  do  best  in  partial  darkness. 

After  gathering  the  stems  until  spring,  the 
clumps  may  as  well  be  thrown  away,  as  they  are 
exhausted,  and  are  worthless  for  planting  again. 

A  gain  of  two  or  three  weeks  in  earliness  may 
be  made  with  rhubarb,  out-of-doors,  right  where 
the  clumps  grow,  without  digging,  by  placing  bar- 
rels without  heads  over  the  clumps.  Pack  stable 
manure  close  about  and  between  the  barrels,  but 
on  the  outside,  about  eight  inches  deep.  Treated 
in  this  way,  the  clumps  are  not  injured  in  any 
way,  and  may  be  left  standing  from  year  to  year. 

SALSIFY,    OR    OYSTER    PLANT 

Salsify  does  best  on  "  Modified "  Sandwich 
Beds.  Sprout  the  seed  same  as  parsnips.  Sow 
early  in  April  in  rows  eighteen  inches  apart,  and 
three  inches  in  row.  Cover  one  inch. 


70  THE  GABDENETTE 

Salsify  may  be  dug  as  used,  or  it  may  be  left 
in  the  ground  all  winter.  Light  freezing  rather 
improves  it. 

For  winter's  use  dig  and  store  in  sand  in  box 
in  cellar. 

Mammoth  Sandwich  Island  is  a  fine  variety. 

SPINACH 

Sprout  the  seed,  and  sow  in  hills  or  rows 
twelve  inches  apart,  and  about  three  inches  apart 
in  row.  Cover  one  inch.  Sow  at  intervals  of 
three  weeks  for  succession.  For  late,  sow  in  Sep- 
tember. 

When  weather  gets  warm,  shade  with  screens 
supported  on  stakes  two  feet  high. 

SUGAE    CORN 

Plant  all  kinds  of  sugar  corn  in  rows  four  feet 
apart  and  about  eight  inches  apart  in  rows.  But 
first  sprout  the  seeds,  and  reject  any  that  do 
not  start  vigorous  growth.  Cover  two  inches 
deep. 

It  is  useless  to  plant  before  the  ground  is  warm, 
for  seed  will  rot,  but  if  seed  is  carefully  sprouted 
they  may  be  planted  a  week  earlier  on  Sandwich 
Beds  than  on  ordinary  soil.  By  this  plan  ten 
days'  time  is  gained  over  other  methods. 

Corn  may  be  grown  with  Early  Ohio  potatoes, 
as  shown  in  third  " Group  Planting."  This  plan 
is  designed  where  the  available  area  is  very  lim- 
ited. If  there  is  room,  separate  planting  is 
recommended. 

For  succession  plant  every  three  weeks  till 
July. 


VEGETABLE  GAEDENING  71 

Golden  Bantam  for  early:  Country  Gentleman 
for  late. 

SQUASH 

Squashes  require  same  treatment  as  water  mel- 
ons. For  squash  bug  use  white  hellebore.  -For 
striped  bug  use  powdered  tobacco  leaves  a  hand- 
ful to  the  hill,  scattered  directly  over  the  small 
plants  just  as  they  emerge  from  the  soil. 

Sow  ten  or  twelve  seeds  to  the  hill,  and  after 
danger  is  over,  thin  to  two  strong  plants  to  the 
hill.  Cover  two  inches,  and  firm  the  soil  slightly. 
If  squash  bugs  become  numerous  and  destructive, 
pick  by  hand,  and  drop  them  into  a  pan  into  which 
there  is  a  little  coal  oil.  If  left  undisturbed  they 
will  quickly  ruin  the  crop. 

For  winter's  use  pull  before  frosts,  and  store 
in  a  cool  room  where  it  does  not  freeze. 

Delicata  and  Banana  are  superior  varieties. 

SWISS  CHARD 

This  unique  vegetable  deserves  more  attention 
than  it  usually  receives.  It  belongs  to  the  beet 
family,  but  the  stems  and  leaves  are  used  and  not 
the  root. 

Stems  may  be  used  like  asparagus,  or  leaves 
and  stems  may  be  prepared  like  spinach.  They 
are  excellent  either  way. 

Sprout  the  seed,  and  sow  in  rows  eighteen 
inches  apart,  and  twelve  inches  apart  in  the  row. 

Give  plenty  of  water. 

Pull  the  leaves  freely:  the  more  you  use,  the 
faster  they  are  renewed.  A  few  plants  will  sup- 
ply a  family. 


72  THE  GAEDENETTE 

There  is  but  one  variety — Lucullus. 
It  transplants  easily,  so  vacancies  can  readily 
be  filled. 

TOMATOES 

Of  all  vegetables  grown  in  the  garden,  the  to- 
mato is  easily  the  King.  Its  use  is  almost  uni- 
versal and  its  popularity  is  undisputed.  It  is 
eaten  raw  when  ripe,  fried  when  green,  made  into 
stews,  pickles,  soups,  ketchup,  etc.,  and  in  some 
form  is  found  on  our  tables  the  year  round,  and 
is  relished  by  all.  Its  wholesomeness  is  unques- 
tioned. It  is  canned  in  enormous  quantities,  and 
is  a  staple  article  with  all  dealers  in  canned  goods. 

The  development  of  the  tomato  from  the  insig- 
nificant little  "Love  Apple,"  which  our  grand- 
mothers grew  in  flower  pots  as  a  curiosity,  to  the 
perfect  fruit  of  to-day,  seems  in  itself  like  magic. 
The  original  type  was  about  the  size  of  a  well 
developed  Concord  grape,  and  like  the  grape, 
grew  in  clusters.  Compare  these  with  good 
specimens  of  Earliana,  Bonny  Best,  Ponderosa, 
or  those  marvelous  creations  of  the  Livingstons', 
the  Globe,  Stone,  Beauty,  Favorite,  Perfection, 
or  Golden  Queen,  whose  fancy  names  scarcely  do 
justice  to  their  real  merits,  and  the  wonder  of 
it  all  is  at  once  apparent. 

I  have  been  asked  which  were  the  very  best 
tomatoes'.  The  answer  seems  easy:  The  very 
first  ripe  specimen  in  the  spring,  and  the  last  one 
of  the  season!  There  is  no  question  but  that 
earliness  is  a  very  desirable  quality,  whether 
grown  for  home  use  or  for  market.  The  demand 
is  usually  so  great  at  the  beginning  of  the  season 


FIELD'S  EARLY  JUNE  TOMATOES. 


VEGETABLE  GAEDENING  73 

that  good  stock  finds  ready  sale  at  fancy  prices. 
There  is  not  a  great  deal  of  difference  in  varie- 
ties as  regards  earliness.  Age,  vigor,  methods 
of  culture,  training,  soil  and  protection  usually 
make  for  earliness  or  lateness,  though  a  few  va- 
rieties have  been  found  that  possess  some  advan- 
tage in  the  way  of  early  ripening.  In  our  ex- 
periments, Earliana  and  Early  June  seem  best. 
Both  are  of  good  quality  and  size.  The  Early 
June  seems  to  lead  in  size,  productiveness  and 
earliness,  though  in  the  latter  respect  it  has  a 
very  small  margin  in  its  favor.  For  early  mar- 
ket we  have  found  it  to  be  a  veritable  "money- 
maker." 

The  methods  hereinafter  described  are  in- 
tended for  those  who  grow  extra  early  tomatoes 
in  the  open  ground,  for  market,  but  the  system 
may  be  successfully  practiced  by  the  amateur  on 
limited  areas.  If  but  a  few  plants  are  wanted  it 
is  always  cheaper  to  buy  them  of  a  reliable 
grower.  In  such  case,  be  sure  to  order  well  in 
advance  so  as  to  be  certain  that  you  will  get  them 
when  wanted,  and  always  order  a  few  more  than 
you  will  need.  The  surplus  are  carefully  heeled 
out  and  kept  to  replace  any  that  die  in  transplant- 
ing, or  that  meet  with  accident.  For  extra  early, 
the  plants  should  be  ten  or  twelve  inches  high, 
rather  stocky,  well  rooted,  and  should  show  some 
blossoms  before  being  transplanted  to  the  open 
ground.  They  should  receive  careful  handling  so 
that  the  growth  is  not  checked,  for  any  check  in 
growth  means  loss  in  earliness.  If  a  large  quan- 
tity of  plants  are  wanted,  it  is  best  to  grow  the 
plants  at  home. 


74  THE  GAEDENETTE 

For  extra  early  tomatoes  seed  should  be  sown 
as  early  as  March  1,  or  even  two  weeks  earlier. 
Tomato  seeds  are  slow  in  germinating  under  ordi- 
nary conditions.  We  have  been  very  successful 
by  pursuing  the  methods  described,  for  we  have 
succeeded  in  ripening  the  crop  two  or  three  weeks 
in  advance  of  those  grown  by  the  ordinary  meth- 
ods. 

The  seed  is  first  sprouted.  To  do  this,  it  is 
spread  about  one-fourth  of  an  inch  deep  on  a  strip 
of  burlap  which  is  twelve  by  twenty-four  inches  in 
size.  The  burlap  is  then  folded  down  from  both 
ends,  over  the  seed  and  rolled  up  and  fastened 
with  pins.  A  label  is  also  prepared  and  attached, 
giving  name  of  variety,  date,  and  other  informa- 
tion desired.  Then,  into  a  pan  containing  half 
a  pint  or  more  of  warm  but  not  hot  water,  pour 
three  or  four  drops  of  spirits  of  camphor.  Now 
place  the  roll  of  seeds  in  this  water  and  leave  for 
one-half  hour.  Press  out  lightly,  so  that  there 
will  be  no  dripping,  wrap  the  roll  as  it  is,  in  five 
or  six  thicknesses  of  old  newspaper;  wet,  and 
place  where  the  temperature  is  regular,  and  about 
seventy-five  degrees.  The  hot  air  chamber  of  a 
Plant  Incubator  furnishes  exactly  these  condi- 
tions. Examine  the  seeds,  and  water  as  often  as 
needed.  If  conditions  are  kept  right,  germination 
will  show  within  four  to  six  days.  As  soon  as 
the  germ  appears,  plant  at  once,  or  there  is  dan- 
ger of  losing  the  seed.  The  seed  should  then  be 
sown  in  flats  or  shallow  boxes  in  which  there  is 
about  three  inches  of  rich,  sandy  compost.  The 
flats  should  be  of  uniform  size,  twenty-four  by 
twenty-six  inches,  and  five  inches  deep.  Cleats 


VEGETABLE  GARDENING  75 

should  be  nailed  across  each  end,  on  the  outside, 
to  assist  in  handling,  and  lifting  about.  Press 
the  soil  or  compost  firm  and  smooth.  Then  make 
shallow  furrows  about  three  inches  apart.  This 
will  allow  seven  rows  running  lengthwise  of. the 
flat.  Into  these  furrows,  carefully  drop  the  seeds 
about  one  inch  apart  and  cover  one-half  inch  deep, 
and  press  the  soil  smooth.  Prepare  a  thin  wood 
label,  giving  variety,  and  date  of  planting,  and 
tack  this  securely  to  the  end  of  the  flat.  Other- 
wise there  is  danger  of  the  record  being  lost  or 
interchanged.  It  pays  to  be  careful  with  your 
records. 

The  flats  may  be  covered  for  a  few  days  with 
several  thicknesses  of  old  newspapers  to  retain 
both  heat  and  moisture.  The  Plant  Incubator 
is  the  ideal  place  for  the  flat,  but  if  this  is  not 
available,  place  the  flat  on  the  staging  of  a  green- 
house, or  near  a  sunny  window  in  a  warm  room. 
The  temperature  should  not  be  permitted  to  fall 
below  fifty  degrees,  even  at  night.  A  well  man- 
aged hot-bed  does  well  for  this  purpose,  but  it 
must  be  very  carefully  controlled,  or  the  plants 
will  be  "  spindling "  and  tender.  This  can  be 
avoided  by  giving  careful  ventilation  on  mild 
days.  When  the  plants  have  formed  the  fourth 
leaf,  they  should  be  transplanted  into  other  flats 
and  set  three  inches  apart  each  way.  Do  not  pull 
up  the  plants,  but  lift  them  one  at  a  time,  by  using 
a  sharp  splinter.  Set  them  rather  deep,  and  press 
the  soil  firm.  Give  them  a  good  watering,  and 
shade  for  two  days.  If  only  each  alternate  plant 
is  taken  up,  the  remainder  may  be  permitted  to 
remain  where  started.  But  the  soil  should  be 


76  THE  GABDENETTE 

pressed  down  firm,  and  the  plants  given  a  good 
sprinkling,  and  shaded  for  a  day  or  two.  Other- 
wise they  may  wilt  and  get  a  set-back. 

When  the  plants  are  four  inches  high  they 
should  be  again  transplanted,  this  time  to  common 
quart  strawberry  baskets,  using  rich  soil  or  com- 
post. Press  soil  very  firm,  water  well,  and  keep 
shaded  a  few  days  as  before.  The  baskets  with 
plants  may  then  be  placed  in  similar  flats  and 
kept  in  a  warm,  sunny  place. 

About  the  middle  of  April  the  plants,  baskets 
and  all,  should  be  moved  to  a  cold  frame,  or  what 
is  better,  a  cold  pit.  The  difference  between  the 
two  is  that  a  cold  frame  is  built  on  top  of  the 
ground,  usually  because  of  insufficient  drainage, 
while  the  cold  pit  is  excavated  to  a  depth  of  eight- 
een inches  or  more  in  the  ground.  But  for  a  pit, 
the  drainage  must  be  good.  With  either  cold 
frame  or  pit  it  is  best  to  use  double  frames,  one 
within  the  other,  leaving  a  space  of  five  or  six 
inches  between  the  outer  and  inner  frames.  This 
space  is  filled  with  sawdust,  litter,  common  soil, 
or  sand.  The  frames  should  be  at  least  thirty 
inches  high  at  the  back,  and  a  foot  less  in  front, 
to  give  the  proper  slope  and  admit  sunshine.  The 
covering  is  with  glazed  sash:  if  double  glazed, 
so  much  the  better.  Good  lumber  should  be  used, 
and  all  parts  should  fit  neatly  so  as  to  exclude 
frosts  and  cold  winds. 

Hot-bed  or  cold  frame  sash  usually  come  in  six- 
foot  lengths,  but  it  is  better  to  get  the  sash  first, 
and  build  the  frame  to  fit,  so  there  will  be  no  mis- 
take as  to  dimensions.  The  inside  frame  should 
extend  to  the  bottom  of  the  excavation,  but  the 


VEGETABLE  GABDENING  77 

outside  frame  may  rest  on  the  surface  of  the 
ground.  Bank  up  outside,  to  the  top,  all  around, 
and  pack  the  soil  firm.  The  pit  should  be  ready 
by  March  first,  and  may  be  used  to  harden  off  ex- 
tra early  cabbage,  cauliflower,  kohlrabi,  or  other 
half  hardy  plants,  which  are  started  in  the  incu- 
bator or  dwelling.  These  are  usually  ready  to  set 
in  the  open  ground  before  the  pit  is  needed  for 
tomatoes,  mangoes,  and  egg  plant. 

Horse  stable  manure  is  packed  firmly  in  the 
bottom  of  the  pit  to  a  depth  of  about  three  inches. 
Then  place  the  baskets  containing  the  plants  on 
this  closely  together.  Work  in  compost  between 
the  baskets  wherever  possible,  and  sprinkle  enough 
compost  over  the  whole  to  conceal  the  baskets. 
Water  rather  lightly  with  luke  warm  water. 
They  must  not  be  watered  too  much  or  they  will 
"damp  off."  On  sunny  days  give  ventilation  be- 
tween ten  A.  M.  and  three  P.  M.  by  raising  each 
alternate  sash  about  three  inches  at  the  upper 
end.  In  case  of  frosts,  cover  the  sash  with  blan- 
kets or  carpet. 

Plants  grown  in  this  manner  should  be  ten  to 
fifteen  inches  high  by  the  middle  of  May  or  a 
few  days  earlier,  when  they  may  be  set  out  on  a 
Sandwich  Bed,  or  the  open  ground.  If  in  the  lat- 
ter, the  soil  should  be  naturally  fertile  or  made 
so  by  the  application  of  well  rotted  manure,  a 
shovelful  to  the  hill,  mixed  with  the  soil  after 
plowing  or  spading. 

The  rows  should  extend  east  and  west,  and  be 
at  least  five  feet  apart,  with  plants  three  or  four 
feet  apart  in  the  row.  If  the  plants  are  to  be 
staked,  they  may  be  grown  closer,  say  thirty 


78  THE  GAKDENETTE 

inches  in  the  rows  which  are  four  feet  apart.  In 
using  the  " Fodder  Mulch/'  to  be  described  later, 
the  wide  spacing  is  necessary. 

Holes  about  six  inches  deep  are  dug  at  proper 
distances  and  the  plants,  baskets  and  all,  are 
planted  so  that  the  basket  is  entirely  concealed. 
In  setting  the  plants  in  position,  gently  crush  the 
bottom  of  the  basket  so  as  to  give  the  roots  chance 
to  penetrate  the  soil  beneath.  After  the  plant  is 
in  place,  give  it  at  least  a  quart  of  water,  and 
when  that  has  soaked  away,  draw  a  little  fine  soil 
around  the  plant  to  prevent  "baking." 

Some  protection  should  be  given  at  once.  The 
Plant  Forcers  or  Boosters,  described  elsewhere, 
are  ideal  for  this  purpose.  For  the  first  two  or 
three  days,  turn  the  glass  to  the  north.  After 
the  shock  of  transplanting  is  over,  turn  the  booster 
around  so  that  the  glass  faces  the  sun  at  ten 
o'clock.  In  warm,  sunny  days  remove  the  caps 
for  three  or  four  hours  in  the  middle  of  the  day. 
"When  the  plants  are  established,  leave  off  the  caps 
for  several  days,  and  then  remove  the  boosters 
altogether  unless  late  frosts  threaten. 

STAKING  AND   CAEE 

Plants  may  be  supported  by  single  stakes.  This 
is  best  accomplished  by  driving  a  heavy  stake 
about  four  feet  in  length  a  few  inches  from  the 
root  of  the  plant.  This  should  be  driven  deep 
enough  to  insure  firmness,  or  winds  will  prostrate 
the  plant  with  its.  load  of  fruit,  especially  after 
heavy  rains.  To  this  stake,  wire  a  lath  or  pole 
about  six  or  eight  feet  long,  using  No.  11  wire. 
Draw  the  wire  close  and  tight,  both  at  the  top  of 


VEGETABLE  GAEDENING  79 

the  stake,  and  also  near  the  ground.  The  tomato 
plant  is  then  tied  with  a  soft  string  to  the  pole 
or  lath  at  intervals  of  about  a  foot.  The  side 
branches  are  thinned,  and  when  the  plant  has 
reached  a  suitable  height,  the  terminal  bud  is 
pinched  out.  Eather  severe  pruning  is  best. 

The  "  three  stake "  method  consists  of  the  use 
of  common  plastering  lath  driven,  edge-wise  to- 
wards the  center,  in  a  triangular  form,  the  base 
about  ten  inches  each  way,  and  the  top  somewhat 
less.  Around  the  lath,  in  spiral  form,  is  passed 
a  common  binder  twine,  looping  it  at  each  lath. 
The  plant  inclosed  is  trained  to  grow  straight 
up,  extending  its  side  branches  through  spaces 
between  the  lath  and  the  twine.  Tolerably  severe 
pruning  is  advisable,  also  topping. 

But  best  of  all  methods,  especially  for  large 
areas,  is  the  "Fodder  Mulch."  This  consists  of 
mulching  the  entire  row,  on  south  side  only,  with 
any  suitable  mulch,  though  corn  fodder  is  the  best 
of  all  materials  for  this  purpose.  Placing  this 
mulch  on  south  side  only,  allows  the  foliage  to 
shade  the  fruit  and  prevents  sun  scald.  The 
plants  are  then  trained  to  lie  on  the  fodder,  which 
affords  a  clean  support  for  the  vines  and  fruit. 
The  fodder  serves  to  conserve  the  moisture.  It 
also  absorbs  extra  heat  during  the  hot  day,  and 
radiates  it  at  night,  thus  greatly  aiding  in  early 
ripening  without  sunburn.  This  plan  is  cheap, 
quickly  done,  permits  the  plant  to  follow  its  natu- 
ral habit  of  sprawling,  or  straggling,  and  will  be 
found  to  set  and  ripen  more  fruit  than  when  the 
plants  are  staked,  and  to  ripen  them  some  days 
earlier. 


80  THE  GABDENETTE 

Plants  mulched  with  fodder  will  usually  set  and 
ripen  double  as  many  fine  fruits  as  those  trained 
to  stakes  or  left  to  straggle  on  the  ground,  be- 
cause the  warm,  sunny,  sheltered  bed  attracts 
those  insects  which  are  necessary  to  effect  perfect 
pollenization.  Early  tomato  plants  often  fail  to 
set  fruit  because  the  cool  weather  of  early  sum- 
mer does  not  invite  visitation  of  insects. 

Growth  and  ripening  can  be  accelerated  consid- 
erably by  the  application  of  nitrate  of  soda,  after 
the  plants  start  growth  in  the  open  ground.  Use 
a  small  teaspoonful  of  crushed  crystals  to  the 
plant,  sowing  broadcast  on  the  top  of  the  ground, 
around  the  plant,  but  be  careful  that  it  does  not 
touch  the  leaves,  or  they  will  be  injured.  Eepeat 
this  every  ten  days  until  the  fruit  is  full  grown. 

For  varieties  I  would  choose  Field's  Early  June, 
and  Earliana  for  first  early.  The  former  is 
slightly  earlier  and  more  productive.  For  main 
crop,  Stone,  Globe,  Favorite,  and  Ponderosa. 
The  Ponderosa  is  sometimes  rough,  but  is  unsur- 
passed for  slicing.  Bonny  Best  is  of  excellent 
quality,  but  as  yet  is  somewhat  variable. 

TURNIPS 

Turnips  may  be  sown  in  April  and  May,  but 
rarely  do  well.  For  late,  sow  in  August  or  early 
half  of  September.  Sow  in  rows  twelve  inches 
apart,  and  ten  seeds  to  the  foot.  When  well 
started,  thin  carefully  to  six  inches.  Neglect  of 
thinning  will  spoil  the  crop. 

After  sowing  the  seed,  the  ground  should  be 
tramped  firm,  and  then  given  a  good  soaking.  If 


EVERGREEN 
SUGAR  CORN. 


GOLDEN  BANTAM 
SUGAR  CORN. 


RICE  POP  CORN. 


VEGETABLE  GARDENING  81 

shaded  with  muslin  screens  for  a  few  days,  a  bet- 
ter stand  is  often  secured.  Turnips  may  be  used 
to  fill  vacant  places  made  by  removal  of  other 
crops. 


SUCCESSION 

These  may  be  planted  for  succession  at  any  time 
between  dates  named, 

SEEDS 

Lettuce   > .April  to  August. 

Badishes April  to  September. 

Beets   ...... April  to  August. 

Sugar  Corn  May  to  July. 

Beans May  to  August. 

Cucumbers   . . May  to  July. 

Endive April  to  August. 

Peas * April  to  July. 

Potatoes    April  to  June. 

Spinach April  to  September. 

Turnips  » .,. .  ,>  .»,.«,.»....,.  .April  to  August. 

PLANTS 

Cabbage   . ., * . ., April  to  July. 

Celery   ,  « April  to  July. 

Peppers  . ., .. .  .May  to  July. 

Tomatoes   May  to  July. 

Kohl  Kabi ..April  to  August. 

Cauliflower '. .  .April  to  August. 

For  late  planting  choose  early  varieties. 

CULTIVATION 

The  Sandwich  System  does  not  require  that  the 
plants  receive  much  hoeing  or  other  cultivation. 
Usually  a  little  stirring  of  the  surface  soil,  and 

82 


.VEGETABLE  GARDENING  83 

the  pulling  out  of  weeds  is  about  all  that  will  be 
necessary. 

A  very  narrow  hoe  should  be  provided.  The 
author  had  such  an  implement  made  by  his  black- 
smith, at  a  cost  of  fifty  cents,  which  gives  excel- 
lent results. 

The  blade  was  made  of  tool  steel,  about  width 
of  a  butcher-knife,  only  it  was  bent  into  a  curve 
like  the  letter  "J,"  the  lower  end  pointed,  and 
with  both  edges  made  sharp.  A  light  handle  was 
purchased  at  hardware  store. 

FERTILIZERS 

If  additional  fertilizers  are  needed  the  follow- 
ing will  be  found  excellent  for  the  purpose : 
Nitrate   of   Soda.    One-fourth   pound   to    the 
square  rod. 

Apply  after  plants  are  above  ground,  being 
very  careful  to  keep  it  off  the  leaves. 

Pulverize  and  apply  before  watering.  Re- 
peat at  intervals  of  two  weeks.  This  will 
give  quick  and  rapid  growth. 

Costs  about  five  cents  per  pound. 
Raw  Bone  Meal.    Apply  broadcast,  and  rake  in 
soil  before  planting,  one  pound  to  square  rod. 

Costs  about  three  cents  per  pound. 
Wood  Ashes.    Apply  broadcast  before  plant- 
ing, and  rake  in  soil,  two  pounds  (two  quarts) 
per  square  rod. 

WATERING 

Of  course,  by  the  Sandwich  Method  of  Garden- 
ing, success  can  only  be  attained  by  the  supply  of 
plenty  of  water,  for  otherwise  the  plants  will  soon 


84  THE  GAEDENETTE 

perish.  Most  cities  and  towns,  and  even  villages, 
now  have  water-works,  and  the  supply  is  constant 
and  ample. 

Watering  should  be  done  in  the  evening,  if  best 
results  are  to  be  obtained,  and  it  is  much  better 
to  water  profusely  once  or  twice  a  week  than  to 
give  a  light  sprinkling  oftener.  In  very  dry,  hot 
and  windy  weather  it  may  be  necessary  to  water 
every  other  day. 

Some  plants  require  much  more  water  than 
others,  notably  celery,  spinach,  cauliflower,  let- 
tuce, and  radishes.  Peas  and  beans  require  less, 
but  should  not  be  allowed  to  languish  for  lack  of 
water.  Celery  especially  wants  plenty  of  mois- 
ture, but  it  is  usually  best  to  allow  the  water  to 
soak  into  the  ground  without  permitting  the  leaves 
or  foliage  to  become  wet,  because  if  the  latter  is 
kept  wet,  rust  and  blight  may  ensue.  This  is  espe- 
cially true  when  the  plants  get  to  be  six  inches 
high  or  larger.  At  this  stage  of  growth,  water 
the  roots  only.  This  can  be  done  by  laying  the 
hose  on  the  ground  in  the  middle  of  the  bed,  and 
permitting  a  light  flow.  Let  this  continue  until 
the  ground  in  the  bed  is  thoroughly  soaked. 

Most  plants  are  better  off  if  the  water  is 
sprayed  directly  on  and  over  them.  Sometimes, 
in  very  hot  weather,  lettuce  and  endive  will  rot  if 
too  much  water  is  supplied. 

For  cantaloupes,  squashes,  cucumbers,  water- 
melons and  pumpkins,  water  in  the  manner  de- 
scribed in  the  chapter  on  cantaloupes,  but  stop 
watering  as  time  of  ripening  approaches. 

All  these  plants  are  better  for  a  liberal  supply 
of  water  at  intervals  of  a  week  or  so ;  especially  is 


VEGETABLE  GARDENING  85 

this  true  of  cucumbers.  When  grown  by  the  Post- 
Hole  Method,  and  liberally  watered,  their  produc- 
tiveness is  marvelous. 

TKANSPLANTING   TABLE 

Difficult    to    Transplant.     Best 

Readily  Transplanted.  to  sow  seed  where 

wanted. 

Asparagus  Beans 

Beets  Carrot 

Cabbage  Corn 

Cauliflower  *Cucumber 

Chard  *Melon,  Water 

Celery  *Melon,  Musk 

Egg  Plant  Parsnips 

Endive  Peas 

Kohl  Eabi  Pumpkins 

Lettuce  Eadish 

Onions  (from  Salsify 

seedlings)  *  Squash 

Parsley  Turnips 

Pepper  Okra 
Tomato 

Seeds  of  the  following  are  usually  sown  in  hot- 
beds for  setting  out  in  garden  as  soon  as  weather 
and  soil  permit.  Can  be  started  in  Incubator. 

If  only  a  few  plants  are  needed  it  is  cheaper  to 
purchase  of  a  reliable  seedsman  or  plant  grower 
than  to  attempt  to  grow  them: 

Vegetables  Flowers  Flowers 

Early  Cabbage  Asters  Stocks 

Early  Cauliflower          Balsams  Verbena 

*  These  may  be  started  in  pots  and  with  care  may  be  trans- 
planted  to  open  ground. 


86  THE  GAEDENETTE 

Vegetables  Flowers  Flowers 

Egg  Plant  Cannas  Pansy 

Endive  Carnations  Heliotrope 

Kohl  Kabi  Coxcomb  Marigold 

Lettuce  Cosmos  Phlox 

Onion  (seed)  Dahlia  Larkspur 

Pepper  Dianthus  Moonflower 

Tomato  Eicinus  Zinnias,  Etc. 

Beets  Salvia 
Chard 

DATES  FOB  PLANTING  IN  THE  SOUTH1 

The  dates  here  given  are  for  latitude  of  Jack- 
sonville, Fla.,  Mobile,  Ala.,  New  Orleans,  La.,  and 
San  Antonio,  Texas.  For  points  one  hundred 
miles  north  the  dates  should  be  ten  days  earlier 
in  autumn,  and  about  same  length  of  time  later 
in  spring,  for  each  one  hundred  miles.  Allowance 
should  also  be  made  for  difference  in  local  condi- 
tions. 

Artichoke,  seed. .  .February. 
Artichoke,  suckersNovember. 
Asparagus,  seed.  .February. 
Asparagus,  roots .  March. 
Beans,  tender  podsMarch  to  May. 
Beans,  lima  . . , . .  .April  to  May. 

January  to  April ;  July  to  No- 
Beets    ,....,.     vember. 

Chard January  to  April. 

Brussels  Sprouts .  August  to  September. 

Borecole    February  to  March. 

Beets   January  to  April;  July  to  No- 
vember. 
Chard .January  to  April. 


VEGETABLE  GAEDENING  87 

Cabbage July  to   September;  January 

and  February. 

Cauliflower  April  to  September. 

Celery    May  and  June;  August  and 

September. 

Sugar  Corn ,  .February  to  June. 

Cucumber   March  to  July. 

Egg  Plant January. 

Endive  . » . . . .  .March  to  May;  September  and 

October. 

Garlic  October  and  November. 

Kohl  Eabi  ...... .January  and  February;  July 

to  October. 
Lettuce January  to  April;  September 

to  December. 
Melon,  both  kinds .  March  and  April. 

Okra ,. . March  and  April. 

Onion,  seeds  and 

sets  ,. .  .January  and  February, 

Shallots,  sets November. 

Parsley    ,,..,..,.  November,     February ;     June 

and  July. 

Parsnips  and  Car- 
rots  , .  f .  January  to  March. 

Peas,  Tom  Thumb  August  and  September. 
Peas,  Marrowfat.. January  and  February. 

Peppers  January. 

Potatoes,  Irish  ...January  to  March  (Feb.  1  is 

best  date). 
Potatoes,  sweet . . .  April  and  May. 

Eadish  ,The  whole  year. 

Salsify October. 

Spinach  September  and  March, 

Squash March  to  June, 


88  THE  GAEDENETTE 

Tomato    January   to   March ;    May   to 

June. 

Turnips  ,.  ...January  to  March;  July  to  Oc- 
tober. 

The  author's  personal  experience  in  gardening 
in  the  South  proves  that  the  Sandwich  Beds  are 
admirably  adapted  to  that  region,  for  excellent 
crops  were  grown  regardless  of  adobe,  alkali, 
sand,  or  other  unfavorable  conditions. 

Sandwich  Beds  are  especially  successful  on 
strongly  alkaline  soils.  In  such  cases  first  place 
a  layer,  three  inches  deep,  of  old  corn  stalks.  On 
this  build  the  regular  Sandwich  Beds.  The  alkali 
will  not  trouble  at  all. 

The  double  muslin  screens  are  just  what  is 
needed  to  protect  tender,  succulent  plants  in  this 
land  of  sunshine.  By  use  of  this  means  of  pro- 
tection, the  finest  grades  of  celery,  lettuce,  spinach, 
radishes,  etc.,  can  be  produced  with  certainty. 

Other  cultural  directions  are  similar  to  those 
found  in  the  body  of  the  book. 

STRAWBEKKIES 

This  fine  fruit  is  usually  grown  on  large  areas, 
but  can  be  produced  in  abundance,  and  of  the  finest 
flavor,  on  very  limited  spaces. 

The  difference  in  flavor  is  very  much  in  favor 
of  the  home  grown  article.  This  is  particularly 
true  where  berries  are  necessarily  picked  before 
fully  ripened,  and  shipped  to  distant  markets. 

For  finest  flavor  and  highest  excellence,  straw- 
berries should  be  gathered  when  fully  ripe,  prefer- 
ably in  the  cool  of  the  morning,  with  a  trace  of 
dew  upon  them! 


VEGETABLE  GAEDENING  89 

The  Modified  Sandwich  Beds  are  exactly 
adapted  to  producing  this  delicious  fruit  in  its 
greatest  perfection.  A  space  six  by  twelve  feet 
will  usually  produce  enough  for  a  small  family, 
both  for  dessert  and  jam,  but  a  bed  twice  that  size, 
six  by  twenty-four  feet,  will  afford  enough  in  ad- 
dition for  gifts  to  appreciative  friends,  and  few 
articles  give  the  supreme  satisfaction  that  a  dish 
of  large,  showy,  delicious  strawberries  is  capable 
of  inspiring. 

It  may  be  that  the  owner  of  a  small  plot  in  the 
back-yard,  while  wishing  to  grow  something  nice, 
yet  has  not  spare  time  to  attempt  many  vege- 
tables; to  such  strawberry  growing,  even  on  a 
very  limited  scale,  certainly  offers  peculiar  attrac- 
tions, for  after  the  beds  are  constructed  and 
carefully  planted,  they  need  very  little  atten- 
tion. 

An  occasional  hoeing,  and  pulling  of  grass  and 
weeds,  will  be  about  all  that  is  needed. 

The  planting  should  be  done  in  latitude  of  Co- 
lumbus, Ohio,  as  early  as  April.  In  fact  the 
plants  should  be  set  as  soon  as  other  "  first  plant- 
ing" is  done,  though  good  success  may  be  often 
secured  by  planting  as  late  as  May  10. 

Spring  planting  is  usually  much  more  success- 
ful than  fall  planting,  in  this  latitude. 

In  latitude  of  New  Orleans,  San  Antonio,  etc., 
planting  may  be  done  any  time  from  November  to 
February. 

The  beds  should  be  six  feet  wide,  and  of  any 
suitable  length.  In  making  up  the  compost,  add 
another  part  of  sand,  that  is,  the  compost  may  be 
as  follows:  One  part  rich  soil,  one  part  fine 


90  THE  GAEDENETTE 

stable  manure — that  from  cow  stables  preferred 
— and  two  parts  fine  river  sand. 

First  spade  the  ground,  filling  the  trenches  with 
fine  manure  as  each  line  of  spading  advances,  as 
described  in  Modified  Sandwich  Beds.  Spread 
about  three  inches  of  compost,  as  above  described, 
evenly  over  the  beds,  and  make  tolerably  firm  by 
tramping ;  rake  smooth,  and  it  is  ready  for  plant- 
ing. 

When  plants  are  received,  remove  all  but  three 
young,  fresh  leaves;  dip  the  roots  in  "puddle," 
which  is  a  mixture  of  clay  and  water,  about  con- 
sistency of  cream.  Allow  the  roots  to  remain  in 
puddle  until  planted;  that  is,  do  not  drop  them 
ahead  of  planter,  for  the  roots  will  soon  suffer, 
if  exposed  to  drying  air. 

In  planting,  first  make  a  hole  about  five  inches 
in  diameter,  and  three  or  four  inches  deep.  In 
bottom  of  hole  make,  with  the  hand,  a  small  coni- 
cal mound,  say  three  inches  in  diameter,  and  two 
inches  high.  Set  the  center  of  the  plant  directly 
over  the  center  of  the  conical  hill,  spread  the  roots 
evenly  and  smoothly,  in  all  directions,  down  the 
sides,  and  then,  carefully  draw  fine  compost  over 
the  roots,  filling  up  the  hole  till  the  ground  is 
level.  To  prevent  soil  covering  the  heart  of  the 
plant,  gather  the  leaves  in  left  hand,  until  plant- 
ing is  completed. 

After  filling  in  the  soil,  press  down  very  firmly, 
placing  toe  of  shoe  on  each  side  of  plant,  close 
up,  and  then  pressing  with  full  weight. 

When  planting  is  properly  done,  the  plant  will 
be  a  little  below  the  level,  and  set  so  firmly  that  it 


VEGETABLE  GARDENING  91 

cannot  be  pulled  out  by  drawing  on  a  single  leaf. 

After  setting,  pour  a  quart  of  water  over  and 
closely  around  each  plant,  and  then  shade  with 
muslin  screens  for  three  or  four  days.  Water 
again  when  screens  are  removed. 

In  ordering  plants  be  sure  to  get  a  few  extra 
plants  of  each  variety.  These  may  be  planted 
/temporarily,  and  used  later  to  fill  vacancies. 

Michael's  Early,  Bubach,  Gandy,  and  Aroma 
are  fine  varieties,  and  give  a  long  season  of  ripen- 
ing. 

If  other  varieties  are  substituted,  be  sure  that 
at  least  two  varieties,  out  of  five,  are  staminate 
flowered.  The  pistillate  varieties  are  among  the 
best  bearers,  if  they  are  properly  pollenized  by 
staminate  varieties  planted  near  by,  otherwise 
they  will  not  be  productive. 

Plants  set  in  manner  here  described  will  cover 
the  ground  the  first  season,  and  bear  abundantly 
the  following  spring.  In  the  North  a  light  pro- 
tection of  leaves,  or  stable  litter,  will  protect  them 
from  winter  kill.  But  the  covering  must  not  be 
very  thick,  or  they  will  often  blanch  and  rot.  Put 
on  barely  enough  cover  to  conceal  the  plants;  a 
little  less  will  be  better.  The  mulch  or  covering 
need  not  be  removed  in  spring. 

For  stimulating  growth,  use  nitrate  of  soda,  a 
pint  to  a  bed  twenty-four  feet  in  length  (six  feet 
wide).  Apply  the  finely  pulverized  crystals  by 
hand,  broadcast,  by  sifting  between  plants,  being 
very  careful  to  keep  the  nitrate  off  the  foliage  of 
the  plants.  This  should  be  applied  early  in 
spring,  and  repeated  two  or  three  weeks  later. 


92  THE  GAEDENETTE 

After  fruit  is  all  ripened,  the  bed  can  be  made 
productive  for  second  year,  in  the  following  man- 
ner: 

With  a  sharp  hoe  cut  off,  close  to  the  ground, 
all  the  plants  on  a  strip  eighteen  inches  wide,  leav- 
ing alternate  strips  of  plants  of  same  width. 
These  strips  thus  destroyed  should  be  where  the 
old  plants  stood,  leaving  young  plants  for  next 
crop.  Then  with  narrow  hoe,  thin  the  strips  re- 
maining, leaving  a  vigorous  plant  not  nearer  its 
neighbor  than  six  inches.  Then  with  a  spading- 
fork  loosen  the  soil  between  rows,  and  around 
plants.  Water  well,  and  a  vigorous  growth  of 
young,  healthy  plants  will  soon  cover  the  entire 
bed.  If  they  become  matted,  it  will  pay  to  pull 
out  the  weaker  plants,  otherwise  the  berries  will 
be  smaller,  and  of  poorer  flavor. 

Nitrate  of  soda  may  be  used  second  season,  ap- 
plied in  same  manner  as  directed  for  first  crop. 

After  two  crops,  the  bed  should  be  changed  to 
new  location,  planting  a  new  patch  the  second 
spring. 

Or  a  new  plantation  may  be  made  every  spring, 
destroying  the  plants  after  first  crop  is  gathered. 

Treated  in  this  manner,  100  plants  should  pro- 
duce from  two  to  three  bushels  or  more  of  highest 
grade  of  delicious  fruit.  Between  time  of  blos- 
soming and  ripening  of  fruit,  they  should  be 
watered  at  least  every  other  evening,  rather  copi- 
ously, reducing  the  quantity  of  water  as  ripening 
approaches. 

On  alkaline  soils,  or  on  adobe,  it  is  better  to 
use  the  regular  Sandwich  Bed,  for  on  these  beds, 


VEGETABLE  GAEDENING  93 

properly  constructed,  good  crops  can  be  grown, 
even  where  ordinary  methods  fail. 

Plants  may  be  set  in  rows,  eighteen  inches 
apart,  beginning  nine  inches  from  the  side,  thus 
planting  four  rows  on  a  bed  six  feet  wide.  In 
rows,  twelve  inches  apart. 

A  bed  six  by  twenty-four  feet  will  require 
ninety-six  plants.  Better  order  125. 

When  plants  arrive  they  should  be  planted  with- 
out delay.  This  is  important. 

The  estimated  yield  here  given  is  very  conserva- 
tive. The  author  has  been  able  to  grow  more  than 
double  this  quantity. 


94 


THE  GABDENETTE 


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PABT  II 
FLOWEE  GABDENING 


NASTURTIUMS. 


HOME  OF  THE  GARDENETTE. 


THE  FLOWEB  GAEDEN 

use  of  the  Sandwich  Beds  for  growing 
flowering  plants  was  an  afterthought  with 
the  author.  Experiments  with  a  few  varieties  at 
first  showed  such  marvelous  results  that  the  list 
was  largely  extended,  and  it  was  found  that  ex- 
cellent success  could  be  achieved  with  nearly 
everything  tried.  Indeed,  these  experiments  were 
attended  with  such  uniform  success  that  it  has 
been  thought  desirable  to  have  a  Flower  Depart- 
ment prepared  for  the  use  of  the  amateur,  or  for 
those  who  have  limited  areas  to  cultivate,  and  yet 
wish  to  enjoy  the  beauty  and  fragrance  of  home- 
grown flowers. 

No  one  need  be  deterred  from  attempting  to 
grow  flowers  successfully  because  of  limited 
space,  or  because  of  unfavorable  conditions,  for 
there  is  such  a  wide  range  for  selection,  that  it 
would  seem  as  if  plants  may  be  chosen  that  are 
suited  to  thrive  in  almost  any  condition  of  soil, 
exposure,  etc.  Of  course  many  varieties  require 
plenty  of  sunshine,  but  there  are  others  which  do 
equally  well  when  shaded.  Some  varieties  need 
plenty  of  room,  and  do  best  when  isolated,  or  as 
single  specimens.  Others  thrive  when  somewhat 
crowded.  So  there  is  ample  opportunity  to 
choose  those  adapted  to  varied  conditions. 

No  specific  plans  can  be  given,  as  each  location 
has  its  own  peculiar  conditions  of  surroundings, 
extent,  and  exposure.  In  planning  for  planting, 

97 


98  THE  GAEDENETTE 

the  open  space  should  be  in  the  center.  Screens 
may  be  arranged  along  boundaries  or  buildings. 
In  these  screens,  the  tall-growing  plants  should 
be  in  the  rear:  medium  sized  next,  and  dwarf  va- 
rieties in  front. 

In  angles  and  corners,  groups  may  be  arranged, 
and  in  the  open  spaces,  a  few — not  many — single 
specimens  of  tropical  growth  may  be  planted  with 
good  effect.  Avoid,  in  planning,  if  possible,  all 
purely  geometrical  effects.  Eather  imitate  na- 
ture. The  best  designs  are  those  where  all  ap- 
pearance of  design  is  concealed.  Unsightly  ob- 
jects, sheds,  fences,  rocks,  walls,  etc.,  may  be 
concealed  by  the  use  of  clinging  or  festooning 
vines,  or  by  suitable  shrubbery.  Vines  do  not 
appear  at  their  best  when  planted  in  the  open, 
even  if  supported  by  stakes  or  posts.  Their 
proper  place  is  against  walls,  or  fences,  or  over 
verandas  where  they  can  spread  broadly.  Cling- 
ing vines  such  as  Boston  ivy  (Ampelopsis  veitchii) 
may  only  be  trained  over  stone  or  brick  walls. 
On  wood  they  are  damaging.  Flowering  plants 
or  vines  set  near  buildings  require  frequent  water- 
ings, as  they  are  deprived  of  a  large  part  of  the 
natural  rainfall.  Nooks  and  shady  corners  are 
suitable  for  ferns,  pansies,  lilies  of  the  valley, 
tuberous-rooted  begonias,  and  violets.  These  do 
best  in  partial  shade.  For  massed  beds,  some  va- 
rieties seem  best  in  single  colors,  such  as  gerani- 
ums and  salvias.  Other  flowers  are  fine  in  mixed 
colors,  such  as  asters,  zinnias,  verbenas,  pansies, 
and  poppies. 

While  roses  are  universal  favorites,  the  grower 
must  be  prepared  to  fight  scale,  mildew,  beetles, 


FLOWER  GAEDENING  99 

slugs,  and  aphis.  All  these  are  readily  controlled 
if  prompt  attention  is  given.  Otherwise  the 
plants  will  soon  become  diseased  and  unsightly. 
However,  the  satisfaction  of  having  an  abundance 
of  these  most  beautiful  and  fragrant  flowers,. con- 
tinuously through  the  whole  season,  will  amply 
repay  the  trouble  and  care  necessary  for  success. 
It  might  be  well  to  consider  this  in  planting,  and 
see  that  roses  are  set  in  accessible  spots  on  ac- 
count of  dusting,  spraying  and  other  care. 

For  shade,  or  for  screen  porches,  or  verandas, 
plant  clematis,  large  and  small  flowering,  ipomea, 
Dutchman's  pipe,  climbing  roses,  and  honey- 
suckles. They  are  usually  quick-growing,  and 
hardy,  and  usually  free  from  disease  and  insects. 

For  rich,  damp  soils,  try  the  eulalias,  gracil- 
lima,  zebrina,  and  variegata.  They  show  best  in 
single  clumps,  and  require  considerable  room. 

For  ease  of  culture,  and  great  profusion  of 
bloom,  for  cut  flowers,  plant  hardy  perennials. 
Once  established,  they  flourish  year  after  year 
with  very  little  care  or  attention.  In  this  class 
are  dicentras,  hardy  phlox,  shasta  daisy,  golden 
glow,  hardy  perennial  poppies,  iris,  peonies,  and 
columbine.  For  early  spring  blooming,  hardy 
bulbs,  that  are  planted  in  October,  such  as  tulips, 
hyacinths,  crocus,  and  daffodils,  are  indispensable. 
But  in  the  spring,  these  beds  should  be  planted,  in 
between  the  rows  of  bulbs,  with  gladiolus,  tube- 
roses, verbenas,  petunias,  asters,  and  zinnias,  for 
succession  and  for  blooms  to  cover  the  beds  after 
the  winter  bulbs  have  died  down.  For  flowering 
shrubs  plant  spirea  von  Houtii,  wigelea,  white 
or  red,  hydrangea  arborescence,  which  is  far  su- 


100  THE  GAEDENETTE 

perior  to  the  old  hydrangea  paniculata.  These 
are  hardy,  and  always  graceful  in  form  and  beauti- 
ful in  foliage. 

For  hedges,  American  arbor  vitse  is  especially 
fine.  It  is  hardy,  free  from  insects  or  disease, 
grows  easily  in  almost  all  conditions,  even  in  par- 
tial shade.  Smoke,  dust,  and  exposure  to  winds 
do  not  seem  to  injure  it  in  any  way.  It  can  be 
sheared  and  kept  in  shape,  and  its  dense  foliage, 
being  evergreen,  is  admirably  adapted  to  loca- 
tions where  screens  or  windbreaks  are  needed. 

California  privet  (Llgustrum  ovalifolium)  is 
also  a  very  popular  hedge  plant,  but  it  will  hardly 
withstand  very  low  temperatures.  Fifteen  de- 
grees below  zero  has  been  known  to  kill  entire 
hedges.  In  the  latitude  of  Tennessee  and  south- 
ward it  should  be  perfectly  hardy.  Age  gives  it 
additional  hardiness,  but  north  of  the  Ohio  Eiver 
it  is  liable  to  be  destroyed,  if  temperature  runs 
too  low. 

Eose  hedges  are  beautiful,  but  require  consid- 
erable attention.  The  roses  used  for  this  pur- 
pose are  the  climbing  sorts,  and  such  as  American 
Pillar,  pink,  Dorothy  Perkins,  white,  and  Hia- 
watha, scarlet,  are  usually  chosen.  These  are 
trained  on  a  wire  fence  about  two  feet  high,  by 
interweaving,  and  then  kept  in  shape  by  trim- 
ming. The  results  are  found  satisfactory. 

Spring  planting  is  best  for  hedges.  The 
ground  should  be  deeply  trenched  and  made  rich 
by  the  addition  of  well-rotted  manure  mixed  with 
sand  or  street  scrapings  or  compost.  A  heavy 
mulch  of  coarse  manure,  leaves  and  litter  placed 
closely  about  the  roots  will  help.  Do  not  expose 


FLOWER  GAEDENING  101 

the  roots  of  the  arhor  vitse  to  the  sun  and  drying 
winds,  for  the  resinous  roots  are  easily  killed  by 
too  much  exposure  to  the  air.  Observe  the  same 
care  with  the  roses,  and  after  setting,  cut  them 
back  to  about  eight  inches.  All  need  frequent 
watering  until  growth  begins. 

For  edging  use  Madame  Saleroi  geranium, 
coleus,  alternanthera,  ageratum,  aerva  sanguina 
(blood  leaf),  or  sweet  alyssum,  Little  Gem. 
Coleus  may  need  clipping,  which  only  adds  to  its 
great  beauty. 

For  the  center  of  circular  beds  of  tall-growing 
plants,  try  Kicinus  Zanzibariensis,  the  largest  and 
most  beautiful  of  the  castor  beans.  For  the  cen- 
ter of  lower-growing  plants  the  tall-growing 
cannas  are  satisfactory.  For  single  specimens, 
standing  alone,  caladium  is  very  effective. 

In  the  pages  following,  cultural  directions  are 
given  for  the  management  of  a  large  number  of 
plants.  From  these,  and  others,  selections  may 
be  made  to  suit  a  great  variety  of  conditions. 
The  amateur,  however,  should  avoid  attempting 
too  great  a  variety  at  first,  remembering  that 
overcrowding  often  hinders  success. 

SOILS   AND   PREPARATION 

It  is  obvious  that  in  the  average  backyard  of  a 
city  lot,  there  can  be  no  choice  of  soils  or  other 
conditions.  It  is  simply  a  case  of  '  '  that  or  none. ' ' 
Fortunately,  selections  of  plants  may  be  made  to 
suit  almost  any  conditions.  The  soil,  however, 
should  be  well  drained,  and  rich.  The  "  Modified 
Sandwich  Bed"  will  be  found  very  satisfactory. 
For  single  specimens,  where  giant  growth  is  de- 


102  THE  GAEDENETTE 

sired,  the  Post  Hole  hills  will  be  found  effective. 
Where  practicable,  the  genuine  Sandwich  Beds 
will  always  give  excellent  results,  even  if  con- 
structed on  poor,  stony  or  clayey  soils,  where  suc- 
cess by  other  methods  seems  hopeless.  This  is 
equally  true  on  adobe,  alkali,  or  sand.  "Where 
strong  alkali  exists,  first  place  a  layer  of  corn- 
fodder  three  inches  deep.  On  top  of  this,  con- 
struct the  regular  Sandwich  Bed,  and  it  will  suc- 
ceed. 

CULTURAL,   DIRECTIONS 

Ageratum.  Annual.  Height,  five  to  twelve 
inches.  Colors,  white  and  blue.  Grown  from 
seed.  Used  for  cut  flowers,  edging,  and  massing 
in  beds.  Can  be  easily  transplanted. 

Sow  in  rich  soil  as  soon  as  danger  of  frost  is 
over,  and  press  soil  down  firm  over  the  seed. 
Thin  out,  or  transplant  to  eight  inches  apart. 

Sweet  Alyssum.  Annual.  Height,  six  to  eight 
inches.  Color,  white.  Grown  from  seed.  Very 
fragrant.  Easily  transplanted.  Used  for  cut 
flowers  and  edging. 

Sow  in  rich  soil  after  danger  of  frost  is  over. 

Asters.  Annual.  Height,  twelve  to  thirty 
inches  or  more.  Colors,  all  shades.  Grown  from 
seed.  Used  for  massing,  and  for  cut  flowers.  Is 
easily  transplanted.  Insect  enemies,  the  blister 
beetle.  Spray  before  and  after  their  arrival  with 
strong  hellebore  tea,  or  with  slug  shot. 

Sow  seed  in  shallow  boxes  in  rich  soil.  A  sunny 
window,  in  a  room  not  too  warm,  is  better  than 
greenhouse  conditions.  The  first  sowings  may  be 
made  in  February,  if  very  early  blooms  are 


FLOWEK  GAEDENING  103 

wanted.  Sowings  may  be  continued  at  intervals 
till  June — the  later  ones  in  the  open  ground. 
This  will  give  a  fine  succession  of  flowers  during 
the  entire  season. 

When  the  seedlings  have  attained  a  third  leaf, 
they  may  be  transplanted  into  other  similar  boxes, 
lifting  the  small  plants  with  a  sharpened  splinter. 
This  gives  the  plants  more  room,  and  checks  the 
tendency  to  "damp  off"  when  the  young  plants 
are  crowded  in  the  first  seed  bed.  It  also  insures 
more  stocky  and  robust  plants.  If  set  three 
inches  apart,  each  way,  they  may  be  held  until 
suitable  weather  permits  planting  in  the  open 
ground.  For  constant  blooms,  plantings  should 
be  made  at  intervals  of  three  weeks.  Later  plant- 
ings may  be  made  in  a  seed  bed  in  the  open  ground, 
about  May  10,  or  a  little  later.  The  soil  must  be 
rich  and  mellow.  The  little  seedlings  should  be 
shaded  by  muslin  screens,  supported  on  stakes 
about  twelve  inches  high. 

The  genuine  Sandwich  Beds  are  ideal  for 
asters.  If  these  are  not  -practicable,  then  try  the 
Modified  Sandwich  Bed.  If  a  layer  of  sandy 
compost  be  placed  on  top  of  the  bed,  and  made 
firm  and  smooth,  the  plants  will  thrive  and  bloom 
in  a  way  that  will  be  very  gratifying. 

The  small  Tom  Thumb  varieties  are  set  six 
inches  apart.  Medium  sizes  ten  inches,  and  large 
growing  varieties  twelve  inches  apart.  A  mulch 
of  fine  manure  will  be  found  beneficial. 

Semple's  Branching  are  sure  to  give  satisfac- 
tion. The  blooms  have  long  stems,  which  make 
them  ideal  for  cut  flowers.  For  late  blooms,  it  is 
unsurpassed.  For  early  blooms,  try  Queen  of  the 


104  THE  GAEDENETTE 

Market.  For  variety,  and  different  colors,  try 
fine  mixed  seed,  offered  by  any  reliable  seedsman. 

Tall  growing  varieties  will  be  benefited  by  giv- 
ing them  support  by  the  use  of  stakes,  to  which  all 
or  part  of  the  plant  may  be  tied.  This  will  pre- 
vent draggling,  in  wet,  windy  weather. 

Aquilegia  (Columbine).  Hardy  perennial. 
Height,  two  to  three  feet.  Grown  from  seed. 
Long  stems  suitable  for  cut  flowers.  Plant  for 
borders,  and  around  rock  work.  Easily  trans- 
planted. 

Sow  seeds  in  rich  soil,  out  of  doors,  after  dan- 
ger of  frost  is  over.  Thin  as  it  becomes  neces- 
sary. When  the  plants  are  large  enough,  trans- 
plant to  permanent  bed.  Suitable  for  shady 
places.  There  are  many  new  and  desirable  varie- 
ties of  recent  introduction. 

Achillea.  Hardy  perennial.  Height,  one  to 
two  feet.  Grown  from  seed.  Suitable  for  cut 
flowers.  Has  long  stems.  Flowers  double,  pure 
white.  Easily  transplanted.  Does  well  in 
masses  or  for  borders.  Sow  seed  and  manage 
same  as  columbine. 

Anemone.  Hardy  perennial.  Height,  one  to 
three  feet.  Many  colors.  Grown  from  seed. 
Easily  transplanted.  Suitable  for  masses,  bor- 
ders, and  shady  places.  Sow  seed  and  manage 
same  as  columbine. 

Balsams.  Tender  annual.  Height,  ten  to 
thirty  inches.  Many  colors.  Grown  from  seed. 
Easily  transplanted.  Sow  seed  in  rich  soil  as 
soon  as  frosts  are  over,  and  transplant  to  perma- 
nent beds,  setting  plants  fifteen  inches  apart. 
Great  improvement  has  been  made  in  this  old- 


FLOWER  GARDENING  105 

fashioned  flower  in  the  last  few  years.  Camelia 
Flowered,  and  New  Goliah  are  types  of  the  high- 
est development. 

Begonia.  Tender  perennial.  Begonias  are  di- 
vided into  two  classes — fibrous  rooted,,  and 
tuberous  rooted.  The  fibrous  rooted  are  mainly 
grown  for  their  foliage,  the  tuberous  rooted  for 
their  very  handsome  single  and  double  flowers. 
Height,  one  foot.  Many  colors.  Suitable  for 
shady  places,  but  must  have  very  rich  soil. 

Canna  Indica  (Indian  Shot) .  Annual.  Height, 
thirty  inches  to  eight  feet.  Flowers,  many  col- 
ors. Foliage,  green  or  bronze.  Grown  from  seed 
or  divided  clumps  or  roots.  The  latter  is  more 
satisfactory.  If  seeds  are  sown,  first  pierce  the 
shell  in  at  least  one  place,  then  soak  in  warm 
water  until  they  show  evidence  of  swelling;  then 
sow  in  sandy  loam.  When  second  leaf  is  formed, 
pot  off  singly,  and  keep  in  a  warm,  sunny  window 
until  warm  weather  is  assured.  When  divided 
roots  are  used,  start  in  sandy  soil  in  boxes  in 
March,  and  keep  them  in  a  warm  place. 

For  single  specimens,  use  the  tall  growing  va- 
rieties, such  as  Louisiana,  or  Wyoming,  which 
have  green  foliage,  or  King  Humbert,  or  New 
York,  which  have  bronze  or  purple  foliage.  All 
have  magnificent  blooms. 

The  soil  must  be  very  rich,  and  somewhat 
sandy.  Post  hole  hills  produce  extra  fine  speci- 
mens, if  given  frequent  waterings.  For  bedding, 
it  is  customary  to  arrange  one  tall-growing  plant 
in  the  center:  next  plant  six  cannas  in  a  circle, 
eighteen  inches  apart.  For  each  succeeding  cir- 
cle it  will  require  six  more  plants  than  were  used 


106  THE  GAEDENETTE 

on  the  next  preceding  circle.  Each  circle  should 
be  of  one  variety,  and  not  quite  so  tall  as  the  one 
next  within.  The  dwarf  varieties  should  be  used 
in  the  outside  circle.  Small  beds  may  be  all  of 
the  same  variety.  A  row  of  the  tall-growing 
cannas  forms  a  beautiful  background  or  screen. 
This  plant  is  not  subject  to  attacks  of  fungi,  in- 
sects, or  diseases.  The  conditions  necessary  for 
success  with  cannas,  are  a  very  rich  soil,  and 
plenty  of  water  and  sunshine. 

Late  in  autumn,  about  the  time  of  the  first  light 
frosts,  cut  off  the  stems,  leaving  eight  or  ten 
inches.  Dig  up  the  clumps,  allowing  some  of  the 
dirt  to  adhere  to  the  roots,  and  store  them  in  a 
cool,  dry  cellar  where  it  does  not  freeze.  Pack 
the  clumps  closely,  and  sift  over  them  and  be- 
tween the  clumps,  sand  or  compost.  Water  very 
sparingly  once  a  month. 

In  early  spring,  say  about  the  first  of  March, 
divide  the  clumps  to  one  or  two  eyes,  and  plant 
pretty  closely,  in  boxes,  and  set  them  in  a  warm 
sunny  place.  The  boxes  should  not  be  too  large, 
or  they  will  be  hard  to  handle.  Keep  the  soil 
damp,  but  not  wet.  The  new  growth  should  be 
one  or  two  feet  high  at  the  proper  season  for 
planting  out  in  the  open. 

Caladium.  This  is  a  bulbous  plant,  but  is 
placed  here  for  the  reason  that  it  is  usually  grown 
out-of-doors  as  a  single  specimen  for  its  showy 
tropical  foliage.  It  is  sometimes  planted,  for  the 
same  reason,  near  streams  or  ponds.  It  is  grown 
from  bulbs,  usually  procured  from  florists,  and 
the  bulbs  should  be  two  or  more  inches  in  diame- 
ter. Bulbs  three  inches  in  diameter  will  produce 


FLOWEB  GARDENING  107 

good  specimens.  Plant  in  very  rich  soil  on  Post 
Hole  Hills,  and  water  regularly.  Take  up  the 
bulbs  before  frosts  in  autumn,  dry  off,  and  pack 
in  dry  sand,  and  keep  on  a  shelf  in  a  warm,  dry 
room.  Do  not  plant  out-of-doors  until  cold  or 
frosty  weather  is  past.  The  bulbs  need  not  be 
"started." 

Chrysanthemums.  Perennial.  Height,  one  to 
three  feet.  Colors  in  variety,  but  white,  yellow 
and  pink  predominate.  The  original  type  was 
yellow,  hence  its  name,  which  means,  "golden 
flowers. "  It  is  especially  desirable  for  cut  flow- 
ers, and  for  potting,  for  late  indoor  blooming. 
It  is  usually  grown  from  rooted  cuttings,  but  may 
be  grown  from  seed.  The  former  method  will 
be  found  most  satisfactory. 

Procure  plants  from  a  florist,  in  March,  and 
plant  singly  in  six-inch  pots  or  small,  wooden 
boxes,  and  after  liberal  watering,  set  in  a  sunny, 
but  moderately  cool  place.  While  chrysanthe- 
mums are  indoors,  they  are  subject  to  attacks  of 
Aphis.  For  these,  syringe  with  strong  tobacco 
tea.  About  the  middle  of  May,  "plunge"  the 
pots  in  soil  in  beds  in  the  garden.  "Plunging" 
is  setting  the  pot  in  the  soil  so  that  the  top  of  it 
is  level  with  the  ground.  Chrysanthemums  make 
slow  growth  at  first,  but  should  be  watered  regu- 
larly, and  to  prevent  the  formation  of  roots  out- 
side the  pot,  it  is  necessary  to  give  the  pot,  plant 
and  all,  an  occasional  turn,  without  lifting  it  out 
of  the  ground.  Do  this  once  in  three  weeks.  If 
this  is  neglected,  the  roots  will  penetrate  the  soil 
through  the  drainage  hole,  and  the  plants  will 
wither  when  taken  up  in  the  fall.  The  object  is 


108  THE  GAEDENETTE 

to  confine  all  the  roots  to  the  soil  inside  the  pot. 

After  the  plants  have  begun  to  grow  vigorously, 
they  must  be  watered  very  frequently,  but  in 
moderation. 

When  the  plants  are  a  foot  high,  the  terminal 
bud  should  be  pinched  out.  This  at  once  stops 
upward  growth,  and  starts  side  branches.  These 
in  turn  should  be  topped  in  the  same  manner. 
Continue  this  topping  until  the  middle  of  Au- 
gust, but  not  later.  At  the  same  time,  trim  out 
the  slender  shoots,  and  trim  the  plant  so  as  to 
bring  it  to  a  symmetrical  shape. 

When  frosts  are  due,  remove  the  plant,  pot  and 
all,  to  a  cool  sunny  room.  Water  moderately. 
Watch  the  foliage  for  Aphis.  If  above  direc- 
tions are  carefully  followed,  there  will  be  an 
abundance  of  fine  blooms  which  will  continue  for 
many  weeks. 

For  varieties,  consult  florists'  catalogs.  There 
is  a  wide  range  to  select  from,  and  all  tastes  can 
be  suited. 

Cosmos.  Annual.  Height  three  to  six  feet. 
Variety  of  colors.  Used  for  cut  flowers  in  late 
summer  and  autumn.  It  is  grown  from  seed. 
For  early  planting,  sow  in  shallow  boxes,  and 
transplant  when  danger  of  frost  is  over.  For 
later  planting,  sow  seed  in  the  open  ground,  and 
transplant  where  wanted.  They  will  continue 
blooming  even  after  light  frosts.  Set  plants 
twelve  to  eighteen  inches  apart. 

Clematis.  Hardy  perennial,  climber.  Height 
twelve  to  twenty  feet.  Colors,  Jackmanii,  violet 
purple.  Henrii,  snow  white.  Madam  Edouard 
Andre,  bright  crimson.  These  are  all  large  flow- 


FLOWER  GAEDENING  109 

ered.  Paniculata  has  small,  star  shaped,  white 
flowers,  in  greatest  profusion.  These  vines  are 
used  to  shade  and  screen  verandas,  for  which 
purpose  they  are  well  adapted,  but  they  must  be 
allowed  to  climb  on  wire  netting. 

All  varieties  may  be  grown  from  seed,  but  to 
save  time,  it  is  usual  to  purchase  two-year-old 
plants.  The  Jackmanii  class  have  thick  fleshy 
roots,  and  must  be  handled  with  greatest  care 
to  insure  success.  The  best  location  is  on  the 
north  side  of  a  building,  where  the  soil  is  some- 
what moist.  Make  a  small,  conical  mound  in  the 
bottom  of  the  hole,  when  planting,  and  place  the 
plant  on  the  apex  of  the  mound,  allowing  the  roots 
to  slope  in  all  directions,  down  the  side  of  the 
mound.  Fill  with  sandy  soil  and  compost,  and 
water  moderately  but  frequently.  The  Panicu- 
lata has  fibrous  roots,  and  can  be  planted  just 
as  any  other  hardy  perennial.  Two-thirds  of  the 
vines  should  be  cut  away  in  November.  All  va- 
rieties are  perfectly  hardy. 

Cypress  Vine.  Annual,  climber.  Height  ten 
to  fifteen  feet.  Colors,  white  and  scarlet.  Used 
for  shading  porches,  or  trained  on  trellises  for 
screens.  Grown  from  seed.  Seed  should  be 
soaked  over  night  in  luke  warm  water,  and  planted 
in  the  open  ground  when  danger  of  frost  is  over. 
Transplant  when  large  enough.  For  screens,  set 
five  or  six  inches  apart.  The  soil  should  be  rich. 
Wire  netting  makes  a  fine  support,  but  cypress 
vine  will  readily  climb  a  single  stake,  or  a  string. 
The  fern-like  foliage  is  very  attractive. 

Centaur ea  (Dusty  Miller).  Perennial.  Height 
twelve  to  eighteen  inches.  Grown  for  its  silvery 


110  THE  GABDENETTE 

foliage.  Used  in  hanging  baskets,  vases,  rock- 
eries, and  sliady  places.  Grown  from  seed,  and 
transplants  easily.  There  are  several  varieties; 
the  Gymnocarpa  is  the  foliage  plant. 

Cinnamon  Vine.  Hardy  perennial,  climber. 
The  roots  remain  in  the  ground  for  years,  but  the 
tops  die  down  to  the  ground  at  the  end  of  every 
season.  Height  twelve  to  twenty-five  feet.  Flow- 
ers small,  white,  and  very  fragrant.  It  is  used 
for  screening  and  shading  verandas,  or  trained 
on  wire  trellises  for  screens.  It  is  grown  from 
plants,  which  may  be  procured  from  florists. 
Buy  only  two-year-old  plants,  and  set  in  early 
spring.  This  plant  is  free  from  disease,  or  at- 
tacks of  insects. 

Dahlia.  Tuberous,  annual.  Height  two  to  six 
feet.  Colors  in  great  variety.  'Used  for  borders, 
and  for  cut  flowers.  Can  be  grown  from  seed, 
when  they  will,  if  started  early  enough,  bloom  the 
first  season.  Great  variety  of  flowers  occurs  when 
grown  from  seed.  They  are  best  when  grown 
from  tubers.  They  may  be  also  propagated  by 
rooted  cuttings.  Seeds  are  sown  in  flats,  early 
in  the  spring,  and  transplanted  to  the  open  ground 
when  settled  warm  weather  is  assured. 

Tubers  should  be  started  early,  in  boxes  of 
sandy  soil,  laying  the  tubers  over  on  their  side, 
and  covering  three  inches  deep.  They  require  a 
warm,  sunny  place,  otherwise  they  will  be  slow 
in  starting. 

If  a  number  of  shoots  start  from  the  same 
tuber,  rub  off  all  but  the  sturdiest  one.  When 
this  is  six  inches  high,  cut  it  off  above  the  second 
joint.  This  will  cause  the  plant  to  throw  out  four 


FLOWEK  GABDENING  111 

side  branches,  and  assure  a  stocky  and  symmetri- 
cal plant. 

Transplant  in  very  rich  beds,  when  warm,  set- 
tled weather  is  assured,  giving  light  and  frequent 
waterings  until  they  get  well  started.  Dahlias 
must  not  be  planted  too  close  together.  Three 
feet  each  way  is  about  the  right  distance.  Bank 
growing  varieties  should  be  supported  by  tying 
them  to  strong  stakes,  driven  firmly  into  the 
ground.  Pretty  severe  thinning  of  the  weaker 
branches  will  help  the  plant  to  stand  erect.  The 
conditions  for  complete  success  are  rich  soil,  and 
plenty  of  sunshine.  In  autumn,  before  hard 
freezes  set  in,  cut  off  the  stalks,  leaving  stubs  six 
or  eight  inches  long.  Dig  the  tubers  carefully, 
and  pack  in  boxes  in  dry  sand,  and  store  in  a 
frost  proof  cellar.  They  should  not  be  allowed 
to  get  too  dry,  but  must  not  be  kept  excessively 
wet.  An  occasional  light  sprinkling  will  answer. 

Digitalis  (Foxglove).  Hardy  perennial. 
Height  three  to  four  feet.  Various  colors.  Seeds 
should  be  sown  out-of-doors  as  soon  as  the  ground 
is  in  good  condition.  Easily  transplanted.  Do 
not  crowd  them.  They  succeed  well  among  shrub- 
bery, or  in  masses.  Used  for  cut  flowers.  When 
the  center  spikes  begin  to  fade  they  should  be  cut 
out,  and  the  side  shoots  will  grow  more  vigor- 
ously, and  keep  up  a  profusion  of  flowers  for  a 
long  time. 

Delphinium  (Larkspur).  Annual  and  peren- 
nial. Height  one  to  four  feet.  Used  for  massing, 
borders,  or  among  shrubbery.  Fine  for  cut  flow- 
ers. Great  variety  of  colors.  Easily  cultivated, 
and  adapted  to  many  conditions.  Seed  may  be 


112  THE  GAEDENETTE 

sown  in  the  spring  or  fall, — preferably  the  latter. 
Thin  plants  to  eight  or  ten  inches  for  annuals, 
and  two  to  three  feet  for  perennials.  All  varie- 
ties have  clean,  attractive  foliage,  and  the  blooms 
are  dazzling. 

Dianthus  (Pinks).  Two  classes,  annuals  and 
perennials.  Both  are  hardy.  The  annuals  often 
give  very  fine  blooms  the  second  year,  and  the 
perennials  often  bloom  profusely  the  first  year. 
Both  are  rapid  growers.  Height  twelve  to  fif- 
teen inches.  All  colors.  Used  for  massing,  and 
for  cut  flowers.  The  perennial  is  sometimes 
called  " Clove  or  Spice  Pinks."  Both  are  grown 
from  seed  sown  in  the  open  ground,  where  they 
are  to  remain.  Thin  and  transplant  for  an  even 
stand.  These  low  growing  plants  are  so  easy  to 
grow  and  are  so  very  satisfactory  that  they  de- 
serve a  place  in  every  flower  garden. 

Ferns.  Hardy  perennials.  Height  eight  inches 
to  two  feet.  They  are  planted  solely  for  their 
foliage.  They  are  grown  best  from  plants,  which 
can  be  procured  from  florists.  They  are  best 
adapted  to  damp,  shady  nooks,  or  corners,  espe- 
cially on  the  north  sides  of  buildings.  They  re- 
quire a  soil  rich  in  humus — decaying  vegetable 
matter — and  need  to  be  watered  often.  Hardy 
ferns  need  little  or  no  protection,  though  a  light 
covering  with  leaves  in  late  autumn  will  be  a 
benefit.  The  tender  class  or  "parlor  ferns"  are 
not  suitable  for  out-door  planting. 

In  many  localities  beautiful  native  ferns  may 
be  found.  They  are  easily  transplanted  in  early 
spring,  and  are  very  well  adapted  to  ornamental 
planting. 


TYPES  OF  GLADIOLI. 


FLOWERS  IN  VARIETY. 


EARLY  PLANTS  IN  COLD  FRAME. 


FLOWER  GARDENING  113 

Geraniums.  Tender  perennial.  Height  eight 
to  twenty-four  inches.  Variety  of  colors.  This 
is  a  greenhouse  or  parlor  plant,  and  is  only  con- 
sidered here  because  of  its  value  as  a  bedding 
plant,  for  masses  of  color,  borders,  and  edging. 
These  can  be  grown  from  seeds,  but  are  more 
satisfactory  when  grown  from  rooted  cuttings. 
For  bedding,  use  bright  colors,  such  as  General 
Grant,  orange-scarlet,  single,  and  S.  A.  Nutt,  bril- 
liant crimson-scarlet,  double.  These  are  espe- 
cially good  for  bedding,  and  are  a  type  of  the 
best  class  for  bedding  purposes.  For  edging,  try 
Madame  Saleroi;  bright  green  leaves  edged  with 
white,  and  of  dwarf  habit. 

Gladiolus.  Tender  bulbs.  Height  two  to  three 
feet  or  even  more.  A  great  variety  of  colors. 
Used  for  cut  flowers.  Generally  grown  from  ma- 
ture bulbs.  It  requires  a  year  for  bulblets,  size 
of  a  pea,  to  reach  blooming  size. 

Fine  bulbs  of  blooming  size  can  be  obtained 
from  florists  and  seedsmen.  Plant  the  bulbs  six 
inches  apart,  and  four  inches  deep.  Planting 
should  begin  about  the  middle  of  April,  and  be 
continued  at  intervals  till  the  first  of  June.  This 
will  give  constant  bloom  till  frost.  If  planted 
too  shallow,  they  are  apt  to  break  down.  This 
may  be  avoided  by  tying  each  stalk  to  a  light 
stake  before  the  break-down  occurs.  Deep  plant- 
ing helps. 

Great  improvement  in  varieties  has  been  made 
in  the  last  few  years.  For  varieties  try  Amer- 
ica, pink,  Augusta,  white,  Canary  Bird,  yellow, 
Princeps,  scarlet.  Gladioli  do  especially  fine  on. 
the  Modified  Sandwich  Beds.  The  name  of  this 


114  THE  GABDENETTE 

beautiful  flower  is  often  mispronounced:  notice 
that  the  accent  is  on  the  second  syllable  and  not 
on  the  third. 

Hydrangea.  Hardy  perennial  shrub.  Height 
four  to  eight  feet.  Color,  white.  Blooms  prac- 
tically all  summer.  Used  as  single  specimens,  or 
for  back-ground.  Hydrangeas  are  of  two  kinds, 
hardy  and  tender.  Only  the  hardy  are  considered 
here.  Procure  strong  stocky  bushes  from  a  florist 
or  nurseryman.  There  are  several  varieties,  but 
the  new  Arborescence  or  " Hills  of  Snow"  is  so 
far  ahead  of  the  old  Paniculata  Grandiflora,  that 
it  is  the  only  one  I  should  recommend.  These  are 
very  easy  to  grow,  and  immensely  satisfactory. 

Honeysuckle.  Hardy  perennial,  trailing  vine. 
Height  six  to  twelve  feet.  Various  colors.  Used 
for  trellises,  pillars,  walls  and  rockwork.  Grown 
from  rooted  plants.  Used  for  cut  flowers.  Some 
of  the  honeysuckles  are  nearly  evergreen.  They 
are  free  from  insects  or  disease.  They  grow 
easily  almost  anywhere.  Evergreen  sweet- 
scented  is  a  very  desirable  variety,  bearing  flow- 
ers both  yellow  and  white. 

Iris.  Hardy  perennial.  This  is  a  bulbous  or 
tuberous  plant.  Height  one  to  two  feet.  Great 
variety  of  colors.  Used  for  planting  in  borders. 
Fine  for  cut  flowers.  Usually  grown  from  bulbs 
procured  from  a  florist.  Easily  grown  and  seems 
to  improve  from  year  to  year.  The  dwarf  pur- 
ple, and  the  dwarf  white,  are  diminutive  in  size, 
being  six  to  eight  inches  high,  and  are  sometimes 
used  for  edging. 

KocJiia.  Annual.  Height  twenty-four  to  thirty 
inches.  Foliage,  light  green,  changing  to  car- 


FLOWER  GAEDENING  115 

mine  or  blood  red.  The  plants  are  of  pleasing 
globe  or  oval  shape,  and  very  symmetrical.  Flow- 
ers inconspicuous.  This  plant  is  grown  for  its 
foliage,  single  specimens,  or  in  hedgerows.  The 
beauty  of  the  plant  is  its  shape  and  color.  -Grown 
from  seed,  and  easily  transplanted.  Seed  may 
be  sown  in  boxes  for  early  planting.  They  may 
be  also  sown  in  the  open  ground  after  danger  of 
frost  is  past,  and  then  transplanted  where  they 
are  to  grow. 

Liliums.  Hardy  bulbs.  There  are  many  va- 
rieties but  only  the  hardy  ones  for  out-door  plant- 
ing are  considered  here.  The  following  will  be 
satisfactory.  Auratum  (Gold  Band  Lily  of 
Japan),  Longifolium  (White  Garden  Lily),  Spe- 
ciosum  Album,  white;  Speciosum  Eubrum,  red; 
Speciosum  Melpomene,  crimson:  Speciosum 
Magnificum,  rich  red,  spotted.  Most  of  the  lily 
bulbs  are  imported,  and  do  not  usually  arrive  un- 
til late,  sometimes  not  until  November.  They 
should  be  planted  as  soon  as  they  are  received. 
Packed  in  sand  they  may  be  kept  until  spring, 
and  then  planted,  as  soon  as  the  frost  is  out  of 
the  ground,  that  is,  if  they  are  received  too  late 
for  fall  planting.  The  soil  should  be  rich,  and 
deep.  Set  the  bulbs  six  inches  deep,  and  surround 
each  bulb  with  pure  sand.  Once  planted,  they  re- 
main in  the  ground  and  will  bloom  for  years  with- 
out replanting.  In  the  fall,  mulch  slightly  with 
coarse  manure. 

Lily  of  the  Valley.  Hardy  perennial.  Sweet, 
delicate  and  graceful.  Height  six  to  eight  inches. 
Color  white.  'Used  for  cut  flowers  in  bouquets. 
Grown  from  pips  or  bulblets.  Plant  in  rich  soil 


116  THE  GAEDENETTE 

in  partial  shade.  Plant  in  early  spring,  six  inches 
apart  each  way.  They  soon  form  a  dense  mat 
and  flourish  with  little  care  from  year  to  year. 

Mignonette.  Annual.  Height  one  to  two  feet. 
Various  colors.  Used  for  cut  flowers  because  of 
its  rich  fragrance.  Grown  from  seed.  Sow  in 
good  soil  where  they  are  to  stand,  in  April,  and 
at  intervals  till  June  for  a  succession.  Thin  to 
six  inches  apart  and  pinch  out  the  top  when  the 
plant  is  two  inches  high.  This  will  insure  sturdy 
plants  and  an  abundance  of  fine  blooms. 

Nasturtiums.  Annual.  Dwarf  and  climbing 
varieties.  Height  of  dwarf,  twelve  to  twenty- 
four  inches.  Climbing  sorts  reach  a  height  of  six 
to  eight  feet.  Colors  in  variety.  Used  for  mass- 
ing, rock  work,  and  also  for  cut  flowers  for  table 
decoration.  They  are  grown  from  seed.  Can  be 
transplanted.  For  early,  sow  seed  in  a  shallow 
box,  cover  one-half  inch  deep,  and  press  soil  down 
firmly,  water,  and  set  in  warm,  sunny  place. 
Transplant  in  the  open  ground  when  settled  warm 
weather  is  assured.  This  treatment  is  suited  to 
both  the  dwarf  and  climbing  kinds.  They  do  best 
in  soil  only  moderately  rich.  Sow  in  the  open 
ground  in  May. 

Peonies.  Hardy  perennial.  Height  two  to 
three  feet.  Colors,  white,  pink,  and  crimson,  with 
all  intervening  shades.  Used  for  massing  or  sin- 
gle specimens.  Fine  for  cut  flowers.  Grown 
from  roots.  They  are  best  planted  in  autumn, 
but  sometimes  succeed  if  planted  in  the  spring. 
In  general  practice  the  root-clumps  are  divided 
too  small.  The  divisions  are  best  if  grown  in 
nursery  rows  one  or  two  years  and  then  planted 


FLOWER  GAEDENING  117 

without  further  division.  They  require  deep  rich 
soil  for  best  success,  though  they  will  grow  any- 
where except  on  very  wet  soils.  They  must  have 
plenty  of  room.  Three  or  four  feet  apart  is  close 
enough.  Do  not  plant  too  deep.  They  often 
bloom  the  first  season  after  planting,  but  improve 
greatly  each  succeeding  year.  They  are  not 
troubled  with  diseases  or  insect  pests. 

Pansy.  Hardy  biennial.  Height  six  inches. 
All  colors.  Used  in  massing  and  for  edging. 
Grown  from  seed.  Sow  in  shallow  boxes  in  rich 
soil  very  early  in  the  spring.  Thin  to  two  inches 
apart  in  the  box,  and  transplant  to  the  open 
ground  about  the  first  of  May  or  even  earlier. 
For  early  flowering,  plants  grown  in  cold  frames 
from  seed  sown  in  the  fall,  are  best.  These  can 
be  procured  from  florists.  They  do  best  in  rich, 
moist  soil,  in  partial  shade,  but  do  not  thrive  un- 
der trees.  With  slight  protection  they  will  win- 
ter over  but  young  vigorous  plants  give  the  finest 
blooms. 

Petunia.  Annual.  Height  ten  to  twenty-four 
inches.  Many  colors.  Useful  in  massing.  Grown 
from  seeds.  They  succeed  as  house  plants  and 
bloom  freely  in  a  sunny  window.  Sow  seed  in 
the  open  ground  early  in  the  spring.  Thin  and 
transplant  when  large  enough.  The  flowers  are 
single,  double,  ruffled,  and  striped,  and  the  ease 
with  which  they  can  be  grown  makes  them  uni- 
versal favorites. 

Phlox  (Drummondi).  Annual.  Height  eight 
to  twenty  inches.  Colors  in  great  variety.  Used 
for  waste  places,  borders  and  massing.  Fine  for 
cut  flowers.  This  is  a  native  of  Texas,  and  is  of 


118  THE  GAEDENETTE 

very  easy  cultivation  and  is  sure  to  be  satisfac- 
tory. Seed  may  be  sown  in  the  open  as  early 
as  the  ground  will  do  to  work.  Do  not  crowd 
them.  Surplus  plants  may  be  easily  transplanted. 

Perennial  phlox  are  grown  from  clumps,  which 
are  procured  from  florists.  They  are  perfectly 
hardy,  and,  once  established,  will  flourish  and 
bloom  from  year  to  year.  The  soil  should  be 
rich.  Occasional  watering  in  dry  weather  will  be 
an  advantage.  A  light  mulch  of  manure  should 
be  given  late  in  autumn.  Phlox  are  free  from 
disease  and  insects.  They  are  very  easily  grown, 
very  profuse  bloomers,  through  the  entire  season, 
and  are  indispensable  in  every  garden. 

Poppy.  Annual.  Height  two  feet.  Variety  of 
colors.  Used  in  massing.  Flowers  are  double 
and  single.  Grown  from  seeds  sown  where  they 
are  to  remain,  as  they  are  hard  to  transplant. 
In  thinning,  do  not  pull  up  the  plants,  but  pinch 
them  off  at  the  surface  of  the  ground,  as  pulling 
disturbs  the  roots  of  those  plants  that  are  to  re- 
main. Two  or  three  sowings  will  give  a  succes- 
sion of  flowers.  Perennial  poppies  are  hardy, 
and  continue  to  thrive  and  bloom  for  some  years 
without  further  trouble,  after  being  once  started. 
They  are  somewhat  taller  than  most  of  the  an- 
nual poppies,  and  the  flowers  can  be  used  for  cut- 
ting. Sow  seed  same  as  the  annuals.  They  some- 
times bloom  the  first  season. 

Roses.  Perennial.  Shrubs  and  climbers. 
Shrubs  grow  two  to  six  feet  high.  Great  variety 
of  colors.  Used  for  beds,  masses,  single  speci- 
mens, and  for  hedges  and  screens.  Eoses  are  un- 
surpassed for  cut  flowers.  Grown  from  rooted 


FLOWER  GAEDENING  119 

cuttings.  They  are  also  budded,  in  which  case  the 
hardy  wild  varieties  are  used  for  stock.  Many 
kinds  are  tender,  and  will  not  stand  freezing, 
while  others  are  quite  hardy,  even  under  trying 
conditions.  Only  the  hardy  and  half-hardy  sorts 
are  considered  here.  In  bush  or  shrub  roses  there 
are  the  Hardy  Hybrid  Perpetual,  and  the  Half- , 
hardy  Hybrid  Teas.  Additional  classification'1 
serves  only  to  confuse  the  amateur.  Hybrid  Per- 
petuals  are  hardy  under  all  ordinary  circum- 
stances. They  are  "perpetual"  in  the  sense  of 
continuing  to  bloom  more  or  less  constantly  from 
June  until  frost.  As  a  rule  they  are  not  as 
fragrant  as  the  Teas  or  the  Hybrid  Teas. 

Eoses  require  a  rich  deep  soil.  Clay  seems  to 
suit  them  best.  As  roses  are  to  remain  per- 
manently where  they  are  first  set,  the  soil  should 
receive  extra  attention. 

Plants  grown  from  cuttings,  that  is,  plants  on 
their  own  roots,  are  preferred  to  budded  stock, 
for  even  if  winterkilled  to  the  ground,  the  former 
will  throw  up  strong  shoots  which  will  produce 
blooms  of  the  same  kind.  Whereas,  if  budded 
stock  is  so  injured,  the  shoots  will  likely  be  from 
wild  stock,  and  the  flowers  will  be  disappointing. 
This  is  true  of  all  classes  of  roses.  It  is  therefore 
best  to  avoid  all  budded  stock.  To  some  degree 
this  trouble  in  budded  stock  may  be  avoided  by 
deep  planting ;  also  by  hilling  up  with  soil  around 
the  plants  late  in  autumn.  The  hilling  up  with 
soil  is  very  beneficial  in  many  ways,  and  should 
never  be  neglected. 

In  early  spring  spray  your  roses  thoroughly 
with  standard  lime-sulphur  solution,  diluted 


120  THE  GARDENETTE 

twenty  to  one  with  cold  water.  Eepeat  after  ten 
days.  This  is  for  San  Jose  and  other  scale.  Soon 
after  the  leaves  are  out,  give  them  thorough 
sprayings  with  strong  hellebore  tea.  Two  or  three 
applications  at  intervals  of  a  week  will  keep  the 
green  worm,  which  defoliates  the  plant,  in  subjec- 
tion. Paris  green,  one  part,  to  water  twenty 
parts,  will  also  be  found  efficient,  but  it  is  more 
dangerous.  Mildew  which  shows  a  grayish-white 
film  on  the  affected  leaves,  can  be  kept  in  check 
by  frequent  sprayings  with  Bordeaux  Mixture  di- 
luted, one  pint  to  six  pints  of  water.  Mildew  is 
the  worst  enemy  of  the  rose,  and  the  hardest  to 
combat.  For  Aphis,  or  plant  lice,  spray  with 
strong  tobacco  tea. 

In  the  class  of  Hybrid  Tea  Roses  are  found  some 
of  the  most  beautiful  roses  in  existence.  Besides 
their  wonderful  beauty,  they  are  usually  "ever- 
blooming,"  that  is  they  bloom  at  short  intervals 
throughout  the  season.  For  best  success  and  per- 
fection of  flowers,  the  blooms  should  be  cut  when 
in  bud,  and  seed  pods  should  be  removed  as  soon 
as  formed.  Encourage  the  growth  of  new  wood, 
for  only  on  these  are  the  flowers  formed.  Cut 
back  the  branches  that  have  ceased  blooming. 

Purchase  two-year-old  plants,  those  grown  on 
their  own  roots  preferred,  and  set  two  feet  apart 
in  beds  that  have  been  spaded  deep,  and  well  en- 
riched. Prune  rather  severely,  and  mulch  the  en- 
tire bed  heavily  with  coarse  manure.  The  mulch- 
ing is  highly  important.  They  will  need  consid- 
erable water,  but  the  soil  must  not  be  made  soggy. 

In  late  autumn  the  bushes  may  be  taken  up  and 
stored  in  moist  sand  in  a  box,  in  a  cool  cellar,  and 


PANSIES  FROM  THE  GARDENETTE. 


DOROTHY  PERKINS  CLIMBING  ROSE. 


FLOWER  GARDENING  121 

replanted  in  the  spring,  after  severe  pruning. 
But  they  may  be  easily  protected  in  the  bed  by 
first  bending  the  stems  so  they  will  lie  flat  on  the 
ground.  Then  place  a  layer  of  evergreen  boughs 
on  them,  and  on  the  boughs  place  inverted  sods, 
being  careful  to  cover  the  roots  and  all  the  stems. 
Remove  the  covering  late  in  the  spring,  just  as 
growth  commences,  being  careful  to  uncover  grad- 
ually. 

A  list   of   desirable   varieties   is   here   given, 
merely  as  a  guide  to  the  amateur. 

TWELVE   HYBRID  PERPETUALS 

American  Beauty,  crimson 

Paul  Neyron,  clear  pink,  large 

Ball  of  Snow,  pure  white 

Gen'l  Jacqueminot,  crimson 

Glorie  Lyonnaise,  nearly  yellow 

Clio,  lovely  flesh  color 

Marshall  P.  Wilder,  deep  red 

Ulrich  Brunner,  crimson  scarlet 

Magna  Charta,  bright  pink 

Frau  Karl  Druschki,  pure  white 

Mme.  Chas.  Wood,  cherry  red 

Hugh  Dickson,  brilliant  crimson 

TWELVE  HYBRID  TEAS  AND  TEAS 

All  of  these  are  the  hardiest  of  their  class. 

Helen  Gould,  crimson 

Helena  Gambier,  canary  yellow 

White  Maman  Cochet,  white 

Jonkheer  J.  L.  Mock,  carmine  pink 

Etoile  De  Lyon,  golden  yellow 

Maman  Cochet,  coral  pink 


122  THE  GAEDENETTE 

Kaiserin  Augusta  Vic- 
toria, white 
Mrs.  A.  E.  Waddell,  coppery  red 
Ecarlate,  scarlet 
LaFrance,  pink 
Hermosa,  bright  pink 
Meteor,  bright  crimson 

Climbing  roses  should  be  chosen  for  hardiness. 
General  management  for  climbers  just  the  same 
as  other  roses.  Not  many  of  the  hardy  climbing 
roses  are  everbloomers.  Most  of  them  bloom  but 
once  in  a  season.  The  new  Climbing  American 
Beauty  is  said  to  be  hardy,  or  at  least  half-hardy, 
and  a  constant  bloomer.  Climbing  Baby  Eam- 
bler  is  ever  blooming,  but  nearly  all  of  the  ever- 
bloomers among  climbers  will  be  killed  by  severe 
winters.  Among  the  June  bloomers  are  such  as 
Prairie  Queen,  Seven  Sisters,  Tennessee  Belle, 
Baltimore  Belle  and  Crimson  Eambler  and  a  few 
others  that  are  truly  hardy. 

The  Eugosa  class  has  beautiful  foliage,  oddly 
wrinkled  and  is  very  ornamental.  Some  are  sin- 
gle, others  double;  all  very  fragrant.  These  are 
of  iron-clad  hardiness. 

The  Wichuraiana  class  will  climb  if  trained; 
otherwise  they  trail  on  the  ground.  Suitable  for 
training  over  rocks,  stumps  and  unsightly  objects. 
Nearly  Evergreen.  They  bloom  in  June  and 
July,  and  are  perfectly  hardy. 

Ricinus  (Castor  Bean).  Annual.  Height  ten 
to  fifteen  feet.  Grown  for  its  foliage.  Used  as 
a  center  of  groups  of  tall-growing  plants.  Grown 
from  seeds,  which  should  be  started  in  pots  in  Feb- 


FLOWER  GARDENING  123 

ruary  or  March,  and  transplanted  after  danger 
of  frosts  is  past,  to  place  where  they  are  to  re- 
main. For  gigantic  size,  plant  them  on  a  post- 
hole  hill,  and  give  frequent  watering.  The  au- 
thor has  grown  specimens  over  fifteen  feet"  high 
by  these  methods.  The  Zanzibariensis  is  by  far 
the  finest  and  best  variety. 

Salvia  (Flowering  Sage).  Annual.  Height 
two  to  three  feet.  Color,  most  vivid  shades  of 
red.  There  are  also  white  and  blue  varieties,  but 
the  red  is  most  used  and  admired.  Used  for 
massing,  single  specimens,  and  hedges.  Grown 
from  seed.  Start  the  seed  in  a  box  in  March,  and 
transplant  to  the  open  ground  when  warm  weather 
is  assured. 

Sweet  Pea.  Hardy  annual.  Vines  grow  to 
height  of  three  to  five  feet.  Colors  in  wonderful 
variety.  Used  for  cut  flowers.  Very  fragrant. 
Grown  from  seed.  These  are  sown  in  a  trench 
about  four  inches  deep,  very  early  in  the  spring, 
not  later  than  February  or  March,  the  earlier  the 
better.  Cover  at  first  about  two  inches,  later 
draw  in  the  soil  until  it  is  level.  The  usual  mis- 
take in  sowing  sweet  peas  is  to  get  them  too  thick. 
Four  inches  apart  is  plenty  close  enough — five 
inches  is  better.  Before  planting,  the  trench 
should  be  spaded  very  deep  and  made  rich  with 
well  rotted  manure.  The  trench  is  best  prepared 
in  the  fall.  Do  not  plant  sweet  peas  near  build- 
ings nor  under  trees.  As  soon  as  they  are  up, 
stake  at  once  or  give  support  with  wire  netting. 
Cut  flowers  freely,  and  keep  seed  pods  pinched  off. 

Verbena.  Half -hardy  perennial.  Height  twelve 
inches.  Procumbent.  Variety  of  brilliant  colors 


124  THE  GABDENETTE 

and  shades,  of  white,  scarlet,  red,  crimson  and 
purple.  Used  for  massing.  For  this  purpose,  the 
scarlet  is  especially  popular.  Mixed  colors  are 
also  favored.  Most  seedlings  are  fragrant. 
Grown  from  seed  and  also  from  cuttings  or  lay- 
ers. Seedlings  are  most  vigorous  and  satisfac- 
tory. Sow  seeds  in  boxes  in  March  and  plant 
about  twelve  inches  apart  in  the  open  ground 
about  the  first  of  May. 

Zinnia.  Annual.  Height  twelve  to  thirty 
inches.  Great  variety  of  colors.  Used  in  masses, 
borders,  and  for  cut  flowers.  Grown  from  seed, 
and  easily  transplanted.  May  be  sown  outside 
about  May  first,  or  for  early,  start  in  the  house 
before  that  time.  The  soil  need  not  be  extra  rich. 
Do  not  crowd  the  plants.  Twelve  inches  or  more 
each  way,  if  choice  flowers  are  wanted.  They  are 
so  easily  grown  and  so  beautiful,  that  they  de- 
serve a  place  in  every  flower  garden. 

HAEDY  BULBS 

Only  hardy  bulbs,  suitable  for  planting  out 
doors,  are  considered  here.  For  caladiums,  can- 
nas,  lilies,  and  gladioli,  see  directions  given  in 
the  general  collection  of  plants. 

Holland  or  Dutch  gardeners  are  famous  for 
their  success  in  growing  fine  hyacinths,  tulips,  and 
similar  bulbs.  While  climate  and  painstaking 
skill  doubtless  have  much  to  do  with  their  suc- 
cess, yet  soil  conditions  appear,  after  all,  to  be 
the  principal  factors. 

The  ideal  soil  is  light  or  sandy,  well-drained, 
rich,  and  containing  much  humus  or  decaying 
vegetable  matter.  The  Standard  and  Modified 


FLOWER  GARDENING  125 

Sandwich  Beds,  with  slight  modifications,  will 
produce  results  of  the  most  satisfactory  charac- 
ter. Because  of  depth  of  planting,  the  top  layer 
of  the  compost  or  street  scrapings  needs  to  be 
about  seven  inches  deep.  Make  this  very  rich  by 
the  addition  of  manure.  That  from  cow-stable  is 
preferred,  as  it  is  non-heating.  The  compost 
should  be  prepared  in  early  summer,  and  the  ma- 
terials in  the  heap  should  be  thoroughly  mixed  by 
shoveling  over  several  times.  Remember  that 
complete  success  depends  upon  having  the  soil 
just  right.  In  using  street  scrapings,  be  sure  to 
avoid  streets  that  have  been  oiled,  or  that  have 
asphalt  or  tar  in  their  make-up. 

Crocuses  are  used  in  masses,  or  " naturalized," 
that  is,  they  may  be  placed  at  random  about  the 
lawn,  or  near  shrubbery,  and  then  be  allowed  to 
remain  for  several  years.  They  are  planted  in 
September  or  October.  In  masses,  plant  them 
three  inches  apart  and  two  inches  below  the  sur- 
face. In  lawns,  make  a  small  hole  with  a  gar- 
den trowel.  They  will  finish  blooming  before  the 
lawns  need  mowing  in  the  spring.  Crocuses  are 
the  first  flowers  of  the  season. 

Hyacinths.  These  should  be  planted  six  inches 
deep,  and  six  to  eight  inches  apart,  in  beds  pre- 
pared as  described  above.  They  may  be  planted 
any  time  during  September  or  October,  or  even 
later,  in  fact,  any  time  before  the  ground  is 
frozen.  A  sunny  location  is  best.  Sometimes 
when  the  bloom  is  heavy,  the  spikes  blow  over, 
or  break  down.  This  can  be  prevented  by  tying 
to  light,  strong  stakes  with  a  soft  string.  The 
colors  run  in  shades  of  pink,  blue,  yellow,  red 


126  THE  GARDENETTE 

and  white.  The  flowers  are  both  double  and  sin- 
gle. The  latter  are  usually  the  most  satisfactory. 
They  may  be  taken  up  after  the  plants  die  down, 
and  be  stored  and  replanted,  but  this  scarcely 
pays.  If  left  in  the  ground,  they  will  bloom  the 
second  year,  but  the  flowers  may  be  inferior. 
After  the  second  year,  new  bulbs  should  be  pro- 
cured. A  light  mulch  of  leaves,  put  over  hya- 
cinths in  the  fall,  will  be  of  advantage. 

Tulips.  Cultural  directions  as  given  for  hya- 
cinths will  also  apply  to  tulips,  except  that  the 
bulbs  should  be  set  four  inches  apart,  and  four 
inches  deep.  They  may  remain  undisturbed  for 
two  or  three  years,  especially  if  the  beds  are  pre- 
pared as  described  above.  In  purchasing  bulbs, 
select  a  good  grade,  and  buy  of  experienced,  re- 
sponsible dealers.  Cheap  bulbs  are  pretty  sure 
to  be  disappointing. 

Narcissus.  Narcissus  is  the  name  of  the  spe- 
cies. Daffodils,  jonquils,  and  Chinese  sacred 
lily,  are  classes  of  narcissi.  When  narcissi  are 
once  planted  they  continue  to  grow  and  thrive 
for  a  number  of  years  without  renewing,  but 
should  be  taken  up  and  re-set,  once  in  three  years. 
Directions  for  planting  are  the  same  as  for  hya- 
cinths, except  that  they  are  planted  six  inches 
apart,  and  three  inches  deep. 

Paper  white,  polyanthus,  and  Chinese  sacred 
lily  are  not  hardy  enough  to  plant  out  of  doors, 
except  in  the  extreme  South.  Poeticus  is  a  small, 
white  variety,  that  is  sweet  scented,  and  is  often 
"naturalized."  Jonquils  are  yellow,  and  are  of 
iron-clad  hardiness. 

Tuberose.    Tuberoses  are  a  species  of  lily,  and 


FLOWER  GARDENING  127 

are  usually  regarded  as  a  greenhouse  plant,  but 
they  may  be  grown  very  successfully  out-of- 
doors.  Their  beauty  and  wonderful  fragrance 
make  them  indispensable.  They  are  grown  from 
small  bulblets,  which  are  attached  to  the  bulb,  and 
which  require  to  be  grown  in  nursery  beds  one 
year  before  reaching  blooming  size.  Select  good 
sized  bulbs,  with  well  developed  necks  that  are 
firm.  If  the  necks  are  shrunken  or  spongy,  they 
will  not  bloom.  Plant  the  bulbs  in  five  or  six  inch 
pots,  setting  so  that  the  tops  are  covered  one  inch 
deep.  Water  sparingly,  and  keep  them  in  a  warm 
sunny  place  while  they  are  forming  roots.  Pot 
a  few  at  a  time,  at  intervals  of  three  weeks,  be- 
ginning March  first  and  continuing  until  June. 

About  the  middle  of  May  the  pots  should  be 
"  plunged  "  in  a  sunny  place  in  the  garden.  Water 
frequently.  Tall  growing  varieties  will  need  sup- 
port by  staking. 

When  they  begin  to  bloom,  the  plants,  pot  and 
all,  may  be  lifted,  placed  in  jardiniers  and  re- 
moved to  the  house.  When  they  are  through 
blooming,  the  bulbs  may  as  well  be  thrown  away, 
as  they  bloom  but  once.  There  are  several  vari- 
eties, but  the  Dwarf  Double  Pearl  is  mostly 
grown.  Double  and  single  sorts  may  be  had  if 
desired.  One  variety  has  variegated  leaves,  but 
as  it  is  not  a  foliage  plant,  this  does  not  add  to 
its  value. 


THE  WILD-FLOWER  GARDEN 

IN  the  city  back-yard  it  sometimes  happens  that 
there  are  shady  corners,  or  narrow  strips  of 
ground  along  boundaries  or  fences,  especially  on 
shaded  sides  of  buildings,  which  may  be  devoted 
to  the  growing  of  wild  or  native  flowers.  The 
Modified  Sandwich  Bed  is  the  ideal  prepara- 
tion for  this  purpose,  using  a  compost  rich  in 
humus  or  decaying  vegetable  matter,  such  as 
leaves,  lawn  clippings,  litter,  etc.  Partial  shade 
is  not  detrimental,  for  most  of  the  desirable  plants 
will  be  found  growing  naturally  in  such  condi- 
tions. 

A  friend  who  owns  a  beautiful  home  in  the  city 
has  such  a  wild-flower  collection,  which  she  calls 
her  "Souvenir  Garden."  It  is  a  narrow  strip 
of  ground,  scarcely  three  feet  wide,  and  five  or 
six  yards  long,  on  the  north  side  of  the  house, 
bordered  on  one  side  by  a  walk,  and  on  the  other 
side  by  an  iron  division  fence.  It  is  mostly  in 
the  shade,  except  in  the  early  morning,  and  dur- 
ing a  part  of  the  afternoon.  In  this  bed  is 
planted  a  varied  assortment  of  native  flowers, 
picked  up  at  picnics,  visits  to  the  country,  and  in 
rambles  over  the  hills,  and  along  the  river.  Some 
were  found  when  on  excursians,  far  from  home: 
some  by  the  roadside — anywhere  and  everywhere 
that  they  were  met  with.  Only  choice  specimens 
were  taken,  and  only  one  or  two  of  a  kind.  Sev- 

128 


FORMAL  PLAN  OF  FLOWER  GARDEN. 
BORDER  OF  ANNUALS. . 


FLOWER  GARDENING  129 

eral  years  were  occupied  in  completing  the  col- 
lection. 

For  a  border,  wild  violets  of  several  colors 
were  used.  No  effort  was  made  to  follow  any 
formal  plan,  but  the  plants  were  set  promiscu- 
ously, as  they  were  secured,  and  the  result  was 
most  pleasing. 

There  were  clumps  of  columbine,  black-eyed 
Susan,  wild  phlox,  hepatica  (Wild  Liverwort), 
anemone,  blue  bells,  golden  rod,  buttercups,  wild 
asters,  blue  and  white,  trilliums,  jack-in-the-pul- 
pit,  bloodroot,  Dutchman's  breeches  (Wild  Di- 
centra),  fringed  gentian,  lady's  slipper,  and 
many  other  beautiful  plants  and  flowers. 

A  few  clumps  of  lily-of-the-valley  might  be 
added,  and  if  desired,  a  sprinkling  of  crocus 
bulbs  and  hardy  tulips  would  give  brightness. 

These  will  give  a  constant  succession  of  bloom. 
The  plants  named  are  nearly,  if  not  all,  peren- 
nial, and  will  re-seed  themselves.  They  are  ac- 
customed to  maintain  themselves  in  the  struggle 
for  existence,  in  their  natural  condition,  and  can 
be  depended  upon  to  look  out  for  themselves,  even 
when  cultivated. 

A  light  mulch  of  leaves  should  be  maintained, 
and  grass  and  weeds  should  not  be  permitted  to 
grow. 

By  proper  care,  plants  may  be  successfully 
moved  at  any  season.  As  many  of  these  plants 
can  only  be  found  during  the  growing  reason,  it 
is  important  that  they  be  properly  managed  at 
the  time  of  transplanting,  to  insure  growth. 

The  only  tool  necessary  is  a  common  garden 
trowel  for  digging.  There  should  also  be  some 


130  THE  GAEDENETTE 

pieces  of  burlap  or  muslin,  and  twine  for  tying 
them  up.    Also  some  newspapers  for  wrapping. 

When  the  plant  is  found,  dig  carefully,  pre- 
serving all  the  roots  possible,  and  some  soil  ad- 
hering thereto.  Dampen  the  cloths,  and  wrap  the 
entire  plant,  after  removing  half  the  foliage. 
Now  sprinkle  with  water  until  quite  wet.  Then 
wrap  in  two  or  three  thicknesses  of  newspaper, 
and  tie  securely.  Treated  thus,  they  may  be  car- 
ried hundreds  of  miles  with  perfect  safety. 

Plant,  preferably  in  the  evening,  water  well,  and 
shade  with  an  inverted  box,  or  cover  with  news- 
papers weighted  down  at  the  corners.  The  plant 
boosters  are  ideal  for  this  purpose.  Water  daily 
until  the  plants  are  well  established.  The  pro- 
tection should  be  removed  after  three  or  four 
days. 

In  selecting  specimens,  do  not  be  satisfied  with 
anything  but  the  choicest  varieties,  for  there  is 
often  very  great  difference  in  the  beauty  of  varie- 
ties of  the  same  species.  This  is  especially  true 
of  wild  asters,  golden  rod,  and  a  few  others. 
Some  are  bulbous,  others  tuberous.  These  need 
very  careful  handling. 

Such  a  bed,  properly  cared  for,  becomes  more 
beautiful  and  satisfactory  as  the  years  go  by. 


GLOSSAEY 

Adobe.  Spanish:  Unburned  brick.  Also  applied  to  a 
kind  of  chalky  clay  or  rock.  Usually  strongly  alka- 
line. 

Alkali.  One  of  a  class  of  caustic  bases,  as  soda,  or  pot- 
ash. 

Annual.    Living  only  one  year. 

Anther.  The  summit  of  the  stamen  of  a  flower,  contain- 
ing the  pollen  or  fertilizing  dust. 

Arborescence.    Having  the  shape  of  a  tree. 

Bi-ennial.  A  plant  which  produces  roots  and  leaves  the 
first  year,  and  flowers,  seeds  or  fruit  the  second  year, 
and  afterwards  perishing. 

Booster.  A  plant  forcer  or  protector.  A  boxlike  form 
with  open  bottom,  and  one  side  covered  with  glass, 
designed  to  protect  early  plants  from  cold  winds 
and  frosts.  Usually  made  of  felt,  wood,  or  paste- 
board. 

Bordeaux  Mixture.  A  compound  of  blue  vitriol,  lime 
and  water. 

Formula.  Dissolve  two  pounds  of  blue  vitriol  in 
eight  gallons  of  hot  water.  Also  slake  two  pounds 
of  fresh  lime  into  three  gallons  of  cold  water. 
Strain  each  solution,  and  then  mix,  using  a  wooden 
container. 

This  is  the  very  best  fungicide  known,  and  is  used 
in  the  treatment  of  blights,  rots,  mildews,  molds  and 
rusts.  By  adding  one  ounce  of  Paris  Green  to  the 
above  recipe,  the  mixture  will  also  destroy  all 
foliage-eating  insects.  Apply  with  a  sprayer. 
Standard  Bordeaux  can  usually  be  purchased  at 
drug  stores. 

131 


132  THE  GABDENETTE 

Blanch.    To  take  the  color  out.    To  make  white. 

Cole  slaw.    A  cabbage  salad. 

Compost.  A  mixture  of  various  substances  for  fertiliz- 
ing or  enriching  the  ground. 

Debud.  To  remove  buds.  In  practice,  all  the  buds  but 
one  on  each  stem  are  removed,  so  as  to  give  increased 
size  and  vigor  to  tfie  one  remaining. 

Flat.  A  shallow  box  used  in  starting  seeds  and  small 
plants. 

Fungicide.  Anything  that  destroys  fungi  without  in- 
juring the  plant. 

Germinate.  To  sprout  or  bud.  To  start  growth,  either 
from  seed  or  roots. 

Hellebore.  A  poisonous,  whitish  powder,  made  from  the 
rhizome  of  the  White  Hellebore  plant.  For  sale  by 
druggists.  Dissolve  one  ounce  in  three  gallons  of 
hot  water.  When  cold,  apply  with  sprayer  on 
foliage  of  the  plants.  Or  apply  by  dusting  directly 
on  the  foliage  when  the  latter  is  damp.  Destroys 
slugs,  worms,  caterpillars  and  leaf-eating  insects. 

Heeling  out.  Temporary  transplanting.  In  heeling- 
out  plants  they  are  usually  set  somewhat  closer  and 
deeper  than  in  ordinary  transplanting. 

Insecticide.  That  which  destroys  insects  without  injur- 
ing the  plants. 

Jardiniere.  An  ornamental  flower  pot  or  container  for 
an  ordinary  pot. 

Mulch.  Half  rotten  straw,  litter,  leaves,  etc.,  used  to 
cover  roots  of  plants  to  hold  moisture,  and  to  protect 
from  frosts. 

Also  a  layer  of  fine  soil  or  dust  around  the  plant  to 
conserve  moisture. 

Plunge.  Plunging  potted  plants  is  to  bury  the  pot  in 
the  soil  so  that  its  top  is  even  with,  or  slightly  below, 
the  surface  of  the  ground. 

Perennial.  A  plant  that  continues  more  than  two  years. 
Perpetual. 


GLOSSAEY  133 

Procumbent.    Lying  down.    Prostrate.    Trailing. 

Puddle.  A  mixture  of  clay  and  water  of  about  the  con- 
sistency of  cream;  in  this  mixture  the  roots  of  the 
plants  should  be  dipped  before  planting. 

Replant.  To  plant  again  when  first  planting  fails  to 
grow. 

Transplant.    To  remove  and  plant  in  another  place. 

Trench.  To  dig  very  deeply  in  succession  of  parallel 
trenches,  or  rows  of  furrows. 


INDEX 


INDEX.— VEGETABLE  GAKDEN 


Asparagus,  49 

Beans,  Tender  Pods,  49 

Lima,  49-50 
Beets,  50 
Board  Frames,  21 
Boosters  or  Plant  Forcers,  30 

Cabbage,  Early,  51 

Late,  51 
Carrots,  52 
Cauliflower,  52 
Celery,  53 
Cold  Frames,  76 
Cold  Pits,  76 
Cucumber,  58 
Celery  Cabbage,  59 
Cultural  Directions,  48 
Cultivation,  82 

Dates  of  Planting  in  the  South, 

86 

Diagram  of  First  Group  Plant- 
ing, 38 

Second  Group  Planting,  40 
Third  Group  Planting,  42 
Fourth  Group  Planting,  44 
of  First  Succession,  46 
Directions  for  making  Sandwich 
Beds,  18 

Eggplant,  57 
Endive,  57 

Fertilizers,  83 
Group  Planting,  23 
Hot-bed  Plants,  85 
Introduction,  13 
Kohl-rabi,  58 
Lettuce,  60 

Melons,  Water,  60 

Musk  or  Cantaloupes,  34 


Muslin  Screens,  22 


137 


Modified  Sandwich  Bed,  19 

Okra  or  Gumbo,  61 
Onion  Sets,  61 
Onions  Picklers,  65 

Parsley,  64 

Parsnip,  64 

Peas,  63 

Peppers,  64 

Pimentos,  66 

Pe  Tsai  or  Celery  Cabbage,  59 

Plant  Incubator,  26 

Post  Hole  Method  for  Melons, 

etc.,  34 
Potatoes,  62 

Preface  to  Third  Edition,  5 
Pumpkin,  65 

Quick  Germination,  25 

Eadish,  68 

Reference  table  for  Sowing,  etc., 

94 

Rhubarb,  or  Pie  Plant,  68 
in  Winter,  69 

Salsify  or  Oyster  Plant,  70 

Sandwich  System,  17 

Space  and  production,  14 

Sprouting  Seeds,  28 

Spinach,  70 

Strawberries,  88 

Succession  to  First  Planting,  36 

Succession  Table,  82 

Sugar  Corn,  70 

Swiss  Chard,  71 

Tomatoes,  46-72 
Tools  and  Appliances,  20 
Transplanting,  29 
Transplanting  Table,  85 
Turnip,  80 

Watering,  83 


INDEX— FLOWER  GARDEN 


Ageratum,  102 

Asters,  102 

Aquilegia  (Columbine),  104 

Achillea,  104 

Anemone,  104 

Balsam,  104 
Begonia,  105 

Canna  Indica,  105 

Caladium,  106 

Chrysanthemums,  107 

Cosmos,  108 

Clematis,  108 

Crocus,  25 

Cypress  Vine,  109 

Centaur ea  (Dusty  Miller),  100 

Cinnamon  Vine,  110 

Dahlia,  110 
Digitalis,  111 
Delphinium,  111 
Dianthus  (Pinks),  112 

Edging,  101 
Ferns,  112 

Geraniums,  113 
Gladiolus,  113 

Hardy  Bulbs,  124' 
Hedges,  100 
Hydrangea,  114 


Hyacinth,  125 
Honeysuckle,  114 

Iris,  114 
Kochia,  114 

Liliums,  115 

Lily  of  the  Valley,  115 

Mignonette,  116 

Narcissus,  126 
Nasturtium,   116 

Peony,  116 

Pansy,  117 

Petunia,  117 

Phlox    ( Drummondii ) ,  117 

Perennial,  118 
Poppy,  118 

Roses,  118 

Desirable,  121 
Ricinus,  122 

Salvia,  123 
Sweet  Pea,  123 

Tuberose,  126 

The  Flower  Garden,  97 

Tulip,  126 

Verbena,  124 
Zinnia,  124 


188 


JOHN  FOX,  JR'S. 

STORIES  OF  THE  KENTUCKY  MOUNTAINS 

May  be  had  wherever  books  are  sold.      Ask  for  Grosset  and  Dunlap's  list 

THE  TRAIL   OF  THE    LONESOME  PINE./ 
Illustrated  by  F.  C.  Yohn.' 

The  "lonesome  pine"  from  which  the 
story  takes  its  name  was  a  tall  tree  that 
stood  in  solitary  splendor  on  a  mountain 
top.  The  fame  of  the  pine  lured  a  young 
engineer  through  Kentucky  to  catch  the 
trail,  and  when  he  finally  climbed  to  its 
shelter  he  found  not  only  the  pine  but  the 
foot-prin  tsofa  girl.  And  the  girl  proved 
to  be  lovely,  piquant,  and  the  trail  of 
these  girlish  foot-prints  led  the  young 
engineer  a  madder  chase  than  "the  trail 
of  the  lonesome  pine." 

THE    LITTLE    SHEPHERD    OF    KINGDOM    COME 

Illustrated  by  F.  C.  Yohn. 

This  is  a  story  of  Kentucky,  in  a  settlement  known  as  "King- 
dom Come."  It  is  a  life  rude,  semi-barbarous;  but  ^  natural 
and  honest,  from  which  often  springs  the  flower  of  civilization. 

"  Chad."  the  "little  shepherd"  did  not  know  who  he  was  nor 
whence  he  came — he  had  just  wandered  from  door  to  door  since 
early  childhood,  seeking  shelter  with  kindly  mountaineers  who 
gladly  fathered  and  mothered  this  waif  about  whom  there  was 
such  a  mystery — a  charming  waif,  by  the  way,  who  could  play 
the  banjo  better  that  anyone  else  in  the  mountains. 

A  KNIGHT  OF  THE    CUMBERLAND.*/ 
Illustrated   by  F.  C.  Yohn. 

The  scenes  are  laid  along  the  waters  of  the  Cumberland* 
the  lair  of  moonshiner  and  f  eudsman.  The  knight  is  a  moon- 
shiner's son,  and  the  heroine  a  beautiful  girl  perversely  chris- 
tened "The  Blight."  Two  impetuous  young  Southerners'  fall 
under  the  spell  of  "The  Blight's  "  charms  and  she  learns  what 
a  large  part  jealousy  and  pistols  have  in  the  love  making  of  the 
mountaineers. 

Included  in  this  volume  is  "  Hell  fer-Sartain"  and  other 
stories,  some  of  Mr.  Fox's  most  entertaining  Cumberland  valley 
narratives. 

Ask  for  complete  free  list  of  G.  &  D.  Popular  Copyrighted  Fiction 


GROSSET  &  DUNLAP,  526  WEST  26th  ST.,  NEW  YORK 


THE  NOVELS  OF 

WINSTON  CHURCHILL 

THE  INSIDE  OF  THE  CUP.    Illustrated  by  Howard  Giles. 

The  Reverend  John  Hodder  is  called  to  a  fashionable  church  in 
a  middle- western  city.  He  knows  little  of  modern  problems  and  in 
his  theology  is  as  orthodox  as  the  rich  men  who  control  his  church 
could  desire.  But  the  facts  of  modern  life  are  thrust  upon  him;  an 
awakening  follows  and  in  the  end  he  works  out  a  solution. 
A  FAR  COUNTRY.  Illustrated  by  Herman  Pfeifer. 

This  novel  is  concerned  with  big  problems  of  the  day.    As  The  • 
Inside  of  the  Cup  gets  down  to  the  essentials  in  its  discussion  of  re- 
ligion, so  A  Far  Country  deals  in  a  story  that  is  intense  and  dra- 
matic, with  other  vital  issues  confronting  the  twentieth  century. 
A  MODERN  CHRONICLE.    Illustrated  by  J.  H.  Gardner  Soper. 

This,  Mr.  Churchill's  first  great  presentation  of  the  Eternal 
Feminine,  is  throughout  a  profound  study  of  a  fascinating  young 
American  woman.    It  is  frankly  a  modern  love  story. 
MR.  CREWE'S  CAREER.     Illus.  by  A.  I.  Keller  and  Kinneys. 

A  new  England  state  is  under  the  political  domination  of  a  rail- 
way and  Mr.  Crewe,  a  millionaire,  seizes  a  moment  when  the  cause 
of  the  people  is  being  espoused  by  an  ardent  young  attorney,  to  fur- 
ther  his  own  interest  in  a  political  way.  The  daughter  of  the  rail- 
way president  plays  no  small  part  in  the  situation. 
THE  CROSSING.  Illustrated  by  S.  Adamson  and  L.  Baylis. 

Describing  the  battle  of  Fort  Moultrie,  the  blazing  of  the  Ken- 
tucky wilderness,  the  expedition  of  Clark  and  his  handful  of  follow- 
ers in   Illinois,  the  beginning  of   civilization  along  the  Ohio  and 
Mississippi,  and  the  treasonable  schemes  against  Washington. 
CONISTON.    Illustrated  by  Florence  Scovel  Shinn. 

A  deft  blending  of  love  and  politics.    A  New  Englander  is  the 
hero,  a  crude  man  who  rose  to  political  prominence  by  his  own  pow- 
ers, and  then  surrendered  all  for  the  love  of  a  woman. 
THE  CELEBRITY.    An  episode. 

An  inimitable  bit  of  comedy  describing  an  interchange  of  per- 
sonalities between  a  celebrated  author  and  a  bicycle  salesman.    It 
is  the  purest,  keenest  fun— and  is  American  to  the  core. 
FHE  CRISIS.    Illustrated  with  scenes  from  the  Photo-Play. 

A  book  that  presents  the  great  crisis  in  our  national  life  with 
splendid  power  and  with  a  sympathy,  a  sincerity,  and  a  patriotism 
that  are  inspiring. 

RICHARD  CARVEL.    Illustrated  by  Malcolm  Frazer. 

An  historical  novel  which  gives  a  real  and  vivid  picture  of  Co- 
lonial times,  and  is  good,  clean,  spirited  reading  in  all  its  phases  and 
interesting  throughout. 

GROSSET  &  DUNLAP,      PUBLISHERS,     NEW  YORK 


ZANE  GREY'S  NOVELS 

May  be  had  wherever  Looks  are  sold.       Ask  for  Grosset  &  Dunlap's  list 

THE  LIGHT  OF  WESTERN  STARS 

Colored  frontispiece  by  W.  Herbert  Dunton. 

Most  of  the  action  of  this  story  takes  place  near  the  turbulen* 
Mexican  border  of  the  present  day.  A  New  York  society  girl  buy? 
a  ranch  which  becomes  the  center  of  frontier  warfare.  Her  ioyaJ 
cowboys  defend  her  property  from  bandits,  and  her  superintendoat 
rescues  her  when  she  is  captured  by  them.  A  surprising  clima: 
brings  the  story  to  a  delightful  close. 

DESERT  GOLD 

Illustrated  by  Douglas  Duer. 

Another  fascinating  story  of  the  Mexican  border.  Two  men, 
lost  in  the  desert,  discover  gold  when,  overcome  by  weakness,  the} 
can  go  no  farther.  The  rest  of  the  story  describes  the  recent  uprising 
along  the  border,  and  ends  with  the  finding  of  the  gold  which  the 
two  prospectors  had  willed  to  the  girl  who  is  the  story's  heroine. 

RIDERS  OF  THE  PURPLE  SAGE 

Illustrated  by  Douglas  Duer. 

A  picturesque  romance  of  Utah  of  some  forty  years  ago  when 
Mormon  authority  ruled.   In  the  persecution  of  Jane  Withersteen,  a 
rich  ranch  owner,  we  are  permitted  to  see  the  methods  employed  by 
the  invisible  hand  of  the  Mormon  Church  to  break  her  will. 
THE  LAST  OF  THE  PLAINSMEN 
Illustrated  with  photograph  reproductions. 

This  is  the  record  of  a  trip  which  the  author  took  with  Buffalo 
Jones,  known  as  the  preserver  of  the  American  bison,  across  the 
Arizona  desert  and  of  a  hunt  in  '  'that  wonderful  country  of  yellow 
crags,  deep  canons  and  giant  pines."  It  is  a  fascinating  story. 

THE  HERITAGE  OF  THE  DESERT 

Jacket  in  color.     Frontispiece. 

This  big  human  drama  is  played  in  the  Parted  Desert.  A 
lovely  girl,  who  has  been  reared  among  Mormons,  learns  to  love  a 
young  New  Englander.  The  Mormon  religion,  however,  demands 
that  the  girl  shall  become  the  second  wife  of  one  of  the  Mormons** 

Well,  that's  the  problem  of  this  sensational,  big  selling  story, 
BETTY  ZANE 
Illustrated  by  Louis  F.  Grant. 

This  story  tells  of  the  bravery  and  heroism  or  Betty,  the  beauti- 
ful young  sister  of  old  Colonel  Zane,  one  of  the  bravest  pioneers. 
Life  along  the  frontier,  attacks  by  Indians,  Betty's  heroic  defense 
of  the  beleaguered  garrison  at  Wheeling,  the  burning  of  the  Fortp 
and  Betty's  final  race  forlife,make  up  this  never-to-be-forgotten  story, 

GROSSET  &  DUNLAP,    PUBLISHERS,   NEW  YORK 


STORIES  OF  RARE  CHARM  BY 

GENE  STRATTON-PORTER 

May  be  had  wherever  books  are  sold.     Ask  for  Grosset  and  Dunlap's  list 

LADDIE. 

Illustrated  by  Herman  Pfeifer. 

This  is  a  bright,  cheery  tale  with  the 
scenes  laid  in  Indiana.  The  story  is  told 
by  Little  Sister,  the  youngest  member  of 
a  large  family,  but  it  is  concerned  not  sc 
much  with  childish  doings  as  with  tho  love 
affairs  of  older  members  of  the  family. 
Chief  among  them  is  that  of  Laddie,  the 
older  brother  whom  Little  Sister  adores, 
and  the  Princess,  an  English  girl  who  has 
come  to  live  in  the  neighborhood  and  about 
whose  family  there  hangs  a  mystery. 
There  is  a  wedding  midway  in  the  book 
and  a  double  wedding  at  the  close. 
THE  HARVESTER.  Illustrated  by  W.  L.  Jacobs. 

"The  Harvester,"  David  Langston,  is  a  man  of  the  woods  and 
fields,  who  draws  his  living  from  the  prodigal  hand  of  Mother 
Nature  herself.  If  the  book  had  nothing  in  it  but  the  splendid  figure 
of  this  man  it  would  be  notable.  But  when  the  Girl  comes  to  his 
•'Medicine  Woods,"  and  the  Harvester's  whole  being  realizes  that 
this  is  the  highest  point  of  life  which  has  come  to  him — then?  begins 
a  romance  of  the  rarest  idyllic  quality. 
FRECKLES,  Decorations  by  E.  Stetson  Crawford. 

Freckles  is  a  nameless  waif  when  the  tale  opens,  but  the  way  in 
which  he  takes  hold  of  life;  the  nature  friendships  he  forms  in  the 
great  Limberlost  Swamp;  the  manner  in  which  everyone  who  meets 
him  succumbs  to  the  charm  of  his  engaging  personality;  and  his 
love-story  with  "The  Angel"  are  full  of  real  sentiment. 
A  GIRL  OF  THE  LIMBERLOST. 
Illustrated  by  Wladyslaw  T.  Brenda. 

The  story  of  a  girl  of  the  Michigan  woods;  a  buoyant,  lovable 
type  of  the  self-reliant  American.  Her  philosophy  is  one  of  love  and 
'Kindness  towards  all  things;  her  hope  is  never  dimmed.  And  by  the 
(•sheer  beauty  of  her  soul,  and  the  purity  of  her  vision,  she  wins  from 
\  barren  and  unpromising  surroundings  thos*  rewards  of  high  courage. 
AT  THE  FOOT  OF  THE  RAINBOW. 
Illustrations  in  colors  by  Oliver  Kemp. 

The  scene  of  this  charming  love  story  is  ia*d  in  Central  Indiana,, 
The  story  is  one  of  devoted  friendship,  and  tender  self-sacrificing 
love.  The  novel  is  brimful  of  the  most  beautiful  word  painting  01 
nature,  and  its  pathos  and  tender  sentiment  will  endear  it  to  all. 

GROSSET  &  DUNLAP,     PUBLISHERS,     NEW  YORK 


MYRTLE   REED'S  NOVELS 

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LAVENDER  AND  OLD  LACE. 

A  charming  story  of  a  quaint  comer  of 
New  England  where  bygone  romance  finds  a 
modern  parallel.  The  story  centers  round 
the  coming  of  love  to  the  young  people  on 
the  staff  of  a  newspaper— and  it  is  one  of  the 
prettiest,  sweetest  and  quaintest  of  old  fash- 
ioned love  stories,  *  *  *  a  rare  book,  ex- 
quisite in  spirit  and  conception,  full  of 
delicate  fancy,  of  tenderness,  of  delightful 
humor  and  spontaniety. 

A  SPINNER  IN  THE  SUN. 

Miss  Myrtle  Reed  may  always  be  depended  npon  to  write  a  story 
in  which  poetry,  charm,  tenderness  and  humor  are  combined  into  a 
clever  and  entertaining  book.  Her  characters  are  delightful  and  she 
always  displays  a  quaint  humor  of  expression  and  a  quiet  feeling  of 
pathos  which  give  a  touch  of  active  realism  to  all  her  writings.  In 
"A  Spinner  in  the  Sun"  she  tells  an  old-fashioned  love  story,  of  a 
veiled  lady  who  lives  in  'solitude  and  whose  features  her  neighbors 
have  never  seen.  There  is  a  mystery  at  the  heart  of  the  book  that 
throws  over  it  the  glamour  of  romance. 

THE  MASTER'S   VIOLIN, 

A  love  story  in  a  musical  atmospnere.  A  picturesque,  old  Ger« 
man  virtuoso  is  the  reverent  possessor  of  a  genuine  "Cremona."  He 
consents  to  take  for  his  pupil  a  handsome  youth  who  proves  to  have 
an  aptitude  for  technique,  but  not  the  soul  of  an  artist  The  youth 
^ias  led  the  happy,  careless  life  of  a  modern,  well-to-do  young  Amer- 
5«an  and  he  cannot,  with  his  meagre  past,  express  the  love,  the  passion 
And  the  tragedies  of  life  and  all  its  happy  phases  as  can  the  mastes 
who  has  lived  life  in  all  its  fulness.  But  a  girl  comes  into  his  life— a 
beautiful  bit  of  human  driftwood  that  his  aunt  had  taken  into  her 
heart  and  home,  and  through  his  passionate  love  for  her,  Lc  learns 
the  lessons  that  life  has  to  give — and  his  soul  awakes. 

Founded  on  a  fact  that  all  artists  realize. 

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JACK    LONDON'S    NOVELS 

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JOHN  BARLEYCORN.    Illustrated  by  H.  T.  Dunn. 

This  remarkable  book  is  a  record  of  the  author's  own  amazing 
experiences.  This  big,  brawny  world  rover,  who  has  been  ac- 
quainted with  alcohol  from  boyhood,  comes  out  boldly  against  John 
Barleycorn.  It  is  a  string  of  exciting  adventures,  yet  it  forcefully 
conveys  an  unforgetable  idea  and  makes  a  typical  Jack  London  book- 

yTHE  VALLEY  OF  THE  MOON.    Frontispiece  by  George  Harper. 

The  story  opens  in  the  city  slums  where  Billy  Roberts,  teamster 
and  ex-prize  fighter,  and  Saxon  Brown,  laundry  worker,  meet  and 
love  and  marry.  They  tramp  from  one  end  of  California  to  the 
other,  and  in  the  Valley  of  the  Moon  find  the  farm  paradise  that  is 
to  be  their  salvation. 

BURNING  DAYLIGHT.    Four  illustrations. 

The  story  of  an  adventurer  who  went  to  Alaska  and  laid  the 
foundations  of  his  fortune  before  the  gold  hunters  arrived.  Bringing 
his  fortunes  to  the  States  he  is  cheated  out  of  it  by  a  crowd  of  money 
kings,  and  recovers  it  only  at  the  muzzle  of  his  gun.  He  then  starts 
out  as  a  merciless  exploiter  on  his  own  account.  Finally  he  takes  to 
drinking  and  becomes  a  picture  of  degeneration.  About  this  time 
he  falls  in  love  with  his  stenographer  and  wins  her  heart  but  not 
her  hand  and  then — but  read  the  story! 
A  SON  OF  THE  SUN.  Illustrated  by  A.  O.  Fischer  and  C.W.  Ashley. 

David  Grief  was  once  a  light-haired,  blue-eyed  youth  who  came 
from  England  to  the  South  Seas  in  search  of  adventure.  Tanned 
like  a  native  and  as  lithe  as  a  tiger,  he  became  a  real  son  of  the  sun. 
The  life  appealed  to  him  and  he  remained  and  became  very  wealthy. 
THE  CALL  OF  THE  WILD.  Illustrations  by  Philip  R.-Goodwin  and 
Charles  Livingston  Bull.  Decorations  by  Charles  E.  Hooper. 

A  book  of  dog  adventures  as  exciting  as  any  man's  exploits 
could  be.  Here  is  excitement  to  stir  the  blood  and  here  is  pictur% 
esque  color  to  transport  the  reader  to  primitive  scenes. 

THE  SEA  WOLF.    Illustrated  by  W.  J.  Aylward. 

Told  by  a  man  whom  Fate  suddenly  swings  from  his  fastidious 
life  into  the  power  of  the  brutal  captain  of  a  sealing  schooner.  A 
novel  of  adventure  warmed  by  a  beautiful  love  episode  that  every 
reader  will  hail  with  delight. 

WHITE  FANG.    Illustrated  by  Charles  Livingston  Bull.  ' 

"White  Fang"  is  part  dog,  part  wolf  and  all  brute,  living  in  tha 
frozen  north ;  he  gradually  comes  under  the  spell  of  man's  com- 
panionship,  and  surrenders  all  at  the  last  in  a  fight  with  a  bull  dog. 
Thereafter  he  is  man's  loving  slave.  ; 

GROSSET   &   DUNLAP,  PUBLISHERS',    NEW   YORK 


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